I agree with Lin. There appears to be an issue with the guts. Tacx support will be able to tel you the meaning. I’m interested in their answer.
I received a response from TACX, I have suggested that it is likely connected as I do get a cadence reading albeit terribly inaccurate. I returned it to the store of origin for a new on. A couple of quick notes. I received it (the first one) with firmware version 0.0, with the Orange light, upgraded to version 0.18, issue remained, downgraded to 0.15, issue remained and lastly upgraded back to 0.18 and the issue was still there. The replacement had 0.18 from the get go. I tend to agree with the assumption that the IC chip is screwy.
“You also have no cadence at all, do you?
The cadence sensor is probably not connected inside.
We therefore advise you to contact the (web) shop where you purchased the trainer in accordance with our warranty procedure.”
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I did inform TACX that I was receiving a cadence (although not correct) and their response was.
“Thank you for this answer.
We can’t explain the problem.”
No solutions today.
Are you referring to the new replacement Neo 2?
Another question, what length crank are you using? I ask because if your cranks are shorter or non-standard, they might not reach/pass the sensor each revolution.
Lastly, if you do not have cadence paired, Zwift will give you an estimate which could be fairly accurate or off by a lot. So, make sure cadence is paired whether it be the Neo or a cadence sensor.
No the new Neo 2 is working perfectly.
I don’t know the length of the cranks off hand but as it’s all working with the new Neo 2 I guess that wouldn’t have been the issue.
Yes I had paired the Neo 2 Cadence Sensor so it must have been functioning to some degree.
Ah… understood. Good to hear the problem has been resolved by the new Neo2 
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Just as an FYI, I’ve had the same problems as many here. Read everything I could find, wrote to Tacx, no reply. Tried different versions, played around with numerous settings. On the Tacx app cadence works perfectly but is terrible on Zwift. Found a comment about crank length as mentioned below. When I read that I just happened to notice the oversize paperclip on my desk. Two seconds to mount it to my left crank and cadence is now perfect. I’ve been running it for two days now without any issue. I’ll update if anything changes but if you don’t hear from me then I’ve come up with something more permanent and it’s continued to work.
A paper clip fixed it, where the hell was that information for the past three months lol
Cheers
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Good to hear you’re workaround is doing the trick. The Neo 2T announcement has come out. Don’t know if it’s any different. The issues with the Neo 2 are so random! Some of us have multiple issues others are perfectly fine.
Tacx ended up sending me an external magnet cadence sensor which is working, but still isn’t what I paid $2000 for.
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… Nevermind…
@Vernon_McNees_Cochra
2T has the same problem sadly. Sometimes cadence is more or less ok and sometimes it’s downright hopeless.
170mm cranks on a Hardtail on the 2T
Re the rest of the thread from everyone else
I’m going to try the paper clip thing on the 2T but disappointing given the amount of clever tech that goes in to these machines.
Version 0.32 of firmware too.
And it’s the Neo2 not detecting or not reporting that is causing the problem, not the method of communication based on my testing.
As it’s exactly the same on Ant+ and Bluetooth. On either Zwift or Sufferfest.
Still Cadence issues with Neo 2T though 
Sadly.
My suspicion is it’s less about which version of the Neo and it’s more about the sensor location meaning some set ups work and some don’t.
(and throwing in occasional faulty hardware too)
Means it’s not obvious where the problem is all the time.
Frustrating for a really expensive bit of kit.
If Tacx/Garmin still doesn’t have it right on the 2T that’s 3 Neo’s that have the same issue. I’m thinking about switching to the Kicker. 
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We’re happy with our 2014 KICKR but if I already had a Neo and my problem with the Neo was the Neo’s cadence readings, I’d buy a separate cadence sensor and use it with Zwift.
The power accuracy I feel is really good. The road feel is a cool feature that no one else currently offers. I’ll probably suck it up and just keep whining about the Neo.
I too find it disappointing that it’s in the top 3 for the most expensive consumer trainer and they continue to have the same issues.
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Yeah.
So I had zero problems with the Neo 2. BUT I think it’s bike and crank and pedal dependant.
I am noticing it now (I think) because with a MTB installed I think the bottom bracket is maybe slightly further forward than a road bike, and while my cranks aren’t short (170mm), I do run small clip less MTB pedals as well so all in all the extra millimetres here and there and pushing the end of the crank and/or any extra pedal ‘bits’ further from their sensor.
So by helping us install different bikes, there’s some unforeseen consequences.
I love the Neo2T otherwise.
One thing I do find odd. Generally I see posts from third parties saying there is a sensor in the main Neo unit that detects a crank.
Anyone know if that is definitely true?
The Tacx site says it’s actually calculated from the dead point of a pedal stroke twice (L+R) a revolution … which would mean it would t matter what our set up was.
That does interest me but it means the issue is something else if that’s the case. And not crank/frame location.
This is my understanding as well, for the Neo 2 and Neo 2T. If you have long chainstays and/or shorter cranks, there is a good chance that the cadence sensor is not getting good readings. You can find various images and/or videos online where people have “extended the crank arm” w/spoons or other metallic objects attached/shimmed to their crank arm so that it reaches the sensor.
I have a Neo1 which uses an algorithm to calculate/estimate your cadence. I forget if it is looking at variations in the flywheel speed or power, but it is calculated. In my case, it is spot on w/the cadence from my p2max which has built in cadence.
Lastly, regardless of which Neo you have, be sure that the firmware is updated. I know the Neo1 had some issues w/cadence in some early firmware versions.
edit: picture addition compliments of Google image search, but it appears to be part of @dcrainmaker Neo2T review
Hi Lin,
If you look at May 28 earlier in this post, you can see on my Neo 2 the metal bar to extend my crank. The sensor is inside the Neo at the front of the housing. To prove this, you can take any piece of metal and pass it across the front of the housing and see the cadence numbers change.
I don’t know the exact length of the crank but I believe it’s more than 170mm. I’ve tried up to 172.5 with no joy.
As you can see above, Tacx sent me an external sensor so I can get reliable cadence.
As also noted, it’s not what I paid 2000$ CDN for.
The spoon that Ray Maker has added, if this is his pic, is exactly what I’ve done with a metal bar.
Shane Miller, I believe does/did not have any issues with the Neo or the Neo 2.
As I’ve said before, it’s entirely random.
I should mount my Marin MTB with 175.5 cranks and see if there’s a difference.
Again, the Neo1 doesn’t have a cadence sensor like the Neo2 or Neo2T.
Totally agree!
To be honest, I find it very bizarre that this problem even exists. How does this even happen? 
Spent several hours today setting up Neo 2 and would you believe it - no cadence!
I did the spoon fix and it works fine
My Neo 1 used ANT to connect power/speed/cadence
The Neo 2 uses bluetooth and wont pair with cadence
I am not impressed - surely a bit of smart kit should work straight away at this price - £1000