Last week I received my zwift cog and click and installed it on my zwift hub.
Prior to installation, I have never used virtual shifting, and have done the majority of my workouts in erg mode. I loaded in to try a group ride so I could try the virtual, and even when I goe all out, I was registering ~80-100 watts on zwift, even though I felt like was pushing 300w or more at 130+ PRM. Shifting up and down virtually did not help resolve this either, though I did still feel resistance changes when shifting and changing elevation. I quit the group ride, and loaded into my usual Z2 erg mode ride with virtual shifting now disabled, and the issue persisted. I could not spin up to power without waaaaay over-exerting. I have always used bluetooth, and never ant+.I can not get my trainer back to its previously normal power levels on any combination of erg mode/non-erg mode and with virtual shifting on/off. Pedaling normally I basically stay around 40w, with minor fluctuations +/- 10w. I do not have power meter cranks/pedals and rely solely on my trainer for power and resistance.
Here is everything I have tried:
- Taking the cog off completely and reattaching it using the supplied video instructions
- Putting my original cassette back on
- Unplugging and plugging the trainer back in
- Shifting between the big and small front chainring
- Turning my computer that runs zwift on and off
- Turning bluetooth on/off and removing other connections to make sure there is no interference. Notably my cadence sensor and heart rate monitor connect and have regular readings with no issues.
- Restarted zwift many times, and tried a fresh install
- Adjusted trainer difficulty slider in zwift settings
- Adjusted the different virtual gear ratios in zwift settings
- Tried my own cadence sensor and the hub’s internal cadence sensor
- Made sure all firmware on trainer and click is up to date
- Tried many spindown calibrations (warmed up trainer for 5 minutes, and then coasted to a stop). Also tried a spindown calibration in the Jetblack app, but I couldn’t even get my trainer to spin to the required 35 km/h to begin the spindown. Disconnected my trainer from it and uninstalled from my phone to make sure there is no further interference
- Zwift support sent me an 18t cog to replace the stock 14t cog, which also did not fix the issue (unsurprising since reinstalling my cassette did not fix this issue either)
- Zwift app on iPad with PC off
I have made a reddit thread about my issues, but sadly no offered solutions workedI have noticed some other threads on the zwift forum and another on reddit that seem to be related to my issue. Have any other zwift hub users experienced issues lately? Or zwift hub users that use virtual shifting, both either recently or for a long time? I’m at a complete loss of what else to try and I’m pretty bummed I can’t ride indoors. I do not qualify for a warranty on my trainer, so I just wanted to make sure I exhausted all of my options before having to buy a new trainer. Thanks for reading, sorry if it was a lot!