zwiftalizer told me exactly nothing. I solved the problem by disabling BT and using ANT+ only.
Internal Bluetooth is not very good. I have said many times that ANT+ fe-c is much more reliable.
Glad you got it fixed
Thanks Gerrie and Jonathan. I might try the same approach.
I have found that my system works OK (ie ergo function seems OK and resistance doesn’t drop out if I use it inside the house rather than in the garage, despite the fact that the download speed, upload speed and ping are all well above the thresholds specified (ie repeated measurements - averages ping 18 ms, download 18 Mbps upload 10 Mbps). In the house I’m getting around 45 ms, 32 Mbps and 13 Mbps). Im using a booster in the garage, but performance seems fine and getting solid signals with all apps. Connection to the device is immediate - from in the house.
Any comments on bandwidth and speed as possible factors? Would it be worth going to ANT+ for the garage? As it stands, I can train in the garage using Sufferfest ergo mode and group rides where I don’t care about dropping out, but will need to bring the set-up inside for any races etc.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Nick
I too have this issue, first started when I was doing an FTP builder where the wattage changes significantly. I was really happy with Zwift until this happened. Now it drops out on almost every ride. I am going to try another app and if its ik then bye bye Zwift. Its neen going on a while and should have been fixed.
Very dissapointing.
What set up do you have?
windows/android/apple?
Hi,
I have apple macbookpro and use bluetooth connection. I connect the lap top to a tv via HDMI lead.
Thank you for responding.
Allan
I’ve not used any apple products for zwift but try and get you laptop as near your trainer as posible and see if that helps. Some find Ant+ to be a better connection (you’ll need an Ant+ dongle but they are relatively cheap on amazon) but i find bluetooth works well for me but when i use my laptop it has to be pretty close to my setup to pick up all the sensors.
I wouldn’t give up on zwift just yet!
Thanks Chris, i did move it closer with no luck, but might try the ant+ .
Thanks again.
Hi Chris,
Moved lap top next to trainer, still disconnected. I did notice that the neo’s housing got hot at the back where the fins are so i’m wondering if there is a cooling fan or thermostat that turns the fan on thats broken. I’ll try pointing an external fan at it to see if that helps. I’ve written to Tacx too to see if they know anything about the heat/fan.
Hi Chris,
it is the cooling fan(internal) thats not working and using an external room fan sorts it out. Garmin are going to replace my existing unit thankfully.
Having recently decided to change from a PC which was suffering lag on Zwift to Apple TV I have been suffering from Bluetooth connection issues with a Flux S. I connect the devices via the companion app and have the phone pretty close to the trainer. If I start a ride then it seems to hold my connection and the blue light stays on the trainer. As soon as I join a race from there or stop pedalling the connection drops and the blue light is no longer on the trainer. Often I don’t lose connection and can continue even although the blue light is off. Then out of nowhere the connection is lost and if I go to the connection page in the menu it shows connected with no signal. I wait and it usually reconnects but the second I go back to the ride it drops after a few seconds. This happens to the heart rate as well and not just the trainer so it’s not a Tacx thing. No other switched on electrical devices close to my phone or trainer. The only fan I’m using is level with the TV screen which is a meter or so in front. Obviously I can’t use Ant + as I’m using Apple TV. Something is causing a drop of connection but it seems strange that it always happens in starting pens or when changing from a ride and going to a race. Makes me think it’s software related and something to do with Zwift rather than local interference
Do you mean you have the Apple TV close to the trainer, right? Are you connecting your trainer direct via BT to the Apple TV, or via the Zwift Companion bridge?
Companion app bridge is the only way to get cadence, heart rate, power and controllable all linked up. Top notch phone with a solid Bluetooth very close to trainer and apple TV. Nothing inbetween the three to effect a signal.
Does your trainer not broadcast power, cadence and controllable down one BT connection? Many trainers do. That’s how I have my trainer paired to my ATV - power/cadence/controllable on one connection, HRM on the other.
If you can do it, direct connection seems to be a lot more reliable than using the ZC bridge.
I got a Tacx Flux S for Christmas and was having a terrible time getting ERG mode to work. Ultimately I just ended up turning it off and manually shifting for intervals as the change in resistance would lag upwards of a minute. Seems like the Bluetooth connection is totally inconsistent. I bought a Wahoo Ant+ dongle and have not had any issues with ERG mode since.
TLDR: Get an Ant+ dongle.
Same here. Tacx Flux 2. Dropping is sporadic. Today was 2.5 miles into a ride. Sometimes it’s around 10 or 15 miles. Not always and never consistent.
Really frustrating, because I gave my wife my Wahoo Kickr Core that works perfectly every time and has for over a year.
I’m having exactly the same issue. Tacx Flux 2 v.s. Mac Book Pro 13" 2017.
I don’t think it’s a overheating issue, because the connection drop out at the beginning of my ride. Sometimes the power meter and cadance is working, but the power controller is gone. I know that because I can do a sprint with 15% climb…
I don’t met the same issue with Rouvy, though…
Troy