Does a zwiftalizer log analysis show anything interesting?
Iâve had mine from the second day they were out and no issues. I ride 2-4 times per week using a PC and connect thru companion app.
I guess as they are Beta at the moment then their could be issues am i correct in thinking that?
Iâm quite happy with mine and they tend to work very well.
I have since added Hub One an Click and they all connect but sometimes a small delay in connecting.
overall very good IMHOâŚ
I am quite happy with my Zwift Play controllers. I use them to reply Ride Ons, give Ride On Bombs and use the Action Bar, sometimes also for steering although I have a Kickr Bike.
What I donât like is that the controllers limit possible hand positions on the handle bar.
Main technical issue is, that I have to take care to always connect my other devices (Kickr Bike, HR monitor) with Zwift first when starting Zwift before switching the Zwift Play controllers on (otherwise connection fails). Also the buttons of the right controller did not work during some group rides after the latest firmware update, but I hope this can be resolved by performing a hardware reset.
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TL;DR: Loved them! Now I donât.
Early firmware was not good. ZP controllers would often disconnect and would not reconnect unless manually done via the pairing screen.
Firmware v1.2.0 fixed these issues. Sometimes the controllers would disconnect, but then would automatically reconnect without me having to do anything. At this point, I started to rely on them for steering, and having the buttons within my thumbâs reach. Very handy.
then ⌠BAM! Firmware 1.2.1 came out and I applied it. Now I have expensive paper-weights.
The controllers never change from âConnecting âŚâ to âConnectedâ. I have been unable to use them for several weeks now. Zwift support is working with me, but I have to jump through all the typical âdumb userâ things to try.
Itâs simple: They worked fine with firmware 1.2.0
The only thing that changed in my setup was updating to firmware 1.2.1
Therefore, firmware 1.2.1 broke them.
(adding) Windows 10 PC with discrete graphics card, bluetooth, Zwift Hub (original)
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Replyâing to myself⌠I got around to buying them and received them a few days ago.
My setup: AppleTV+Zwift Companion App on iPhone, Zwift Hub Classic and now Play controllers.
They just work. Easy as that. I honestly donât like steering. I mean, it works, but thatâs it. I havnât had a single use of them yet.
The virtual gearing though⌠Sooooooooo nice instead of having to switch physical gears. I have to admit that this is clearly a pay-to-win kind of thing. I very clearly loose more power switching my physical Ultegras than I do with the virtual setup. But hey, pay-to-win is only relevant for competitive modes and I donât race, so⌠
And as an added bonus: For the last two months I have not been able to figure out how to give ride ons; I really wanted to, but everytime I go into the companion app, the ride ons are just black and nothing happens when i press them. Now I have just given my first 100 ride ons in two days
Is your Bluetooth built in or do you use a USB Bluetooth adaptor/dongle?
I have an adapter.
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Did you have to stop the ride and go to the connection screen or just turn the Zwiftplays off and on again while riding. Mine disconnect Nd never reconnect unless I stop and go the the pairing screen, and then they could take ages before both are connected, but they never stay connected.
Iâm happy enough with them as they were working flawlessly until game version 1.49 came out
I have to click the Steering pairing box, uncheck the Play controllers, wait for a refresh, then select them again, click OK. Then they show as connected.
I have to do that every single time.
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I only needed to turn off the single play unit which hadnât connected and turn it back on and then it connected, no need to go out of the riding screen. I think itâs because one was already connected just fine and the other simply didnât connect at ride start - it wasnât a âdisconnectâ as one never connected in the first place (the other one did) which may make the situation different from yours.
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I tried this. Still no connection. I tried every combination of on / off, one on / one off, etc.
Always stuck on âConnecting âŚâ
Before firmware 1.2.1 I was very happy with them. They worked almost perfectly. I had random disconnects in total of maybe 3 times during the first 3 months of using them at least 5 times a week. I also only had to charge them twice (excluding the initial charge) during that timeframe.
Then they released firmware 1.2.1 and now theyâre disconnecting and reconnecting every minute or so. If it wasnât for the first 3 months I wouldâve returned them by now and never give them a second thought.
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Mine disconnect every minute or so. The connection seems to be getting worse for me with every firmware update. If and when they work, they are lovely. I so want them to work. I wish I could find the magic sauce that makes the connection stable.
Windows 10 tower PC, connecting with a Bluetooth dongle.
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This may or not help someone.
Iâve had them since launch and as Iâve said before always been pretty unstable.
I have a new process of connecting that seems to be fairly reliable (minimal disconnects).
Iâm on a kickr bike connecting by BT to windows 10 PC. I let zwift connect to the bike for power, control and cadence and also connect to my Tickr before even touching the plays. Zwift thinks itâs all done and start the okay button countdown. I stop this and turn on left play, let it connect (buzz) then turn on right play (buzz) and the pairing tile goes blue. Then I click okay and head into game.
Iâve found that if the plays are on when the bike, HR are trying to connect they buzz and connect but the tile stays orange and the plays are then pretty unstable.
Hope helps someone and be good to hear if it does or Iâm just clutching at straws.
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I will try this Jamie. To date, I have always had the Play Controllers on before I start Zwift. I will report if it is any better your way.
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This is exactly what I do too with the exeption that I turn on the right controller first after my other gear has established connection and I have Windows 11. But it is a bit annoying to be forced to do it this way and to have to abort the countdown etc., but every other way leads to problems.
I love Zwift Play especially with races 
On MacOS (Mac Pro Intel Xeon tower) my trick is to keep the charging cable connected to them at all times when in use. This limits the drop outs very well.
Leaving power disconnected makes them drop out every minute, so many times the handlebars shake not stop from the Zwift Play drop outs.
Whatâs needed is a wired USB connection for them.