Hello. I have a Zwift Hub with Zwift Click for shifting. Both have worked well for the past year that I have owned them, but on my last several rides, the Zwift Click has been failing. While riding, I can upshift with a single click, but if I downshift with a single click, the gear just keeps dropping until it reaches a very low gear – 4 or 5. I get a message about connectivity, and then the Click allows me to start upshifting again. Obviously very inconvenient when I’m dropped out of a race because I’m suddenly ten gears too low and peddling like crazy.
The Click shows as paired on my Companion app (for iPhone) and it pairs on my Zwift app, running on Mac after clicking once or twice to “wake it up” during bluetooth pairing at the beginning of a ride. According to the Companion app, the firmware is up to date on the Click, with version 11.0 and hardware version A.0, and MAC address 09-1D0646BF9F79. The companion app says that the battery is over 90% charged, so it doesn’t seem like a battery issue.
Do I just have a defective Click, or is there something else that I should be doing?
Welcome to the forums. This is Haziel from Zwift. I’m glad you shared your request here. I understand your concern with the Zwift click connection.
After reviewing the information and reviewing your logs to confirm that as you mentioned everything is updated, I noticed that it’s likely Zwift isn’t receiving all of your data packets via Bluetooth (BLE), anything transmitting on, or interfering with that frequency can also interfere with BLE signals causing dropouts, we suggest you try the following:
Confirm you have the correct option selected for using Bluetooth, or Zwift Companion from the gear icon in the PAIRED DEVICES screen.
Turn off BLE on your device and then turn it back on again.
Restart Zwift and try pairing again.
If BLE isn’t working, and an ANT+ dongle is installed, try removing the ANT+ dongle to simplify the configuration.
Please disconnect any BLE device like a mouse, headphones, or keyboards that use Bluetooth signal to avoid interference.
Also please check that the virtual shifting is on, check this article for more information. I would appreciate it if you could please follow the steps from our article Resetting Your Game Preferences to verify that the Zwift Click is not connecting to something else besides Zwift.
If there is anything else we can help you with, please contact us. You are always welcome.
"This isn’t a device-related issue—it’s a problem with the Zwift Click itself. I experienced the same problem and tried all of Zwift’s recommended solutions, but none worked. In the end, I purchased a new Zwift Click, and it functions flawlessly. Since I didn’t change anything else—my iPad, its placement, or setup—the only difference was swapping out the Click. Zwift is well aware that the early versions have firmware issues but refuses to acknowledge it. Unfortunately, the only real fix is to accept the situation and buy a new Zwift Click.
I’m having exactly the same issue. The Zwift Click worked fine for one year. Then I replaced the battery, and after that, the exact same problems started. Every few minutes, after pressing “down”, it shifts down 5–6 gears and then shuts off. At that moment, nothing can be done. Right after that, it returns to normal operation again, and I can shift up. It’s unclear why this is happening. It doesn’t shift up on its own — only down. This is terrible during races.
I have also had this issue since changing the batteries. I would get the camera rubber band effect and the left click would disconnect (I know it was left since led also goes out). If i leave alone the camera would swing again and the click would reconnect. I can hold a button and it will reconnect. I tried to place in more new batteries and used the CA to track the connection. Right was no issue, left however seemed it would work and eventually drop out while screwing in the small screws, I tried all sorts of torquing patterns to see if I could fix it. What I ended up doing was putting some pater behind and around the battery leaving a gap for positive cottact and that solved it. The click backside lid does not appear to hold the battery secure enough and the battery might be making intermittent contact with the positive contacts. As a side note on next rev of the click perhaps a round battery door that only requires a coin to open and a more simple o-ring vs the complax gasket and screws would simplify manufacturing and end user battery replacement.