Subject: Issue with Zwift Click Functionality after 1.63 Update


  • Intel Core i7 7th Gen processor
  • Windows 10
  • 16GB RAM
  • Windows version 22H2
  • Local admin privileges
  • Antivirus disabled
  • Windows Firewall disabled


  • Zwift Hub One Trainer
  • Zwift Click
  • Zwift Controllers
  • Garmin Cadence Sensor
  • Garmin ANT+ dongle for HRM and Cadence Sensor
  • Scosche R+2.0 Heart Rate Monitor
  • Various Bluetooth dongles: ASUS USB-BT400, Plugable 4.0 Bluetooth Dongle, Sabrent USB Bluetooth 4.0 Micro Adapter, TP-Link USB Bluetooth 5.0 Dongle
  • USB hub (USBGear powered hub) to position the USB dongle closer to the Zwift for better pairing. Since my laptop is quite far away, troubleshooting with the USB dongle plugged into the laptop and onboard Bluetooth does not work at all. The best solution was to use a USB extension cable plugged into the laptop and run it close to the bike, with the USB hub plugged into that USB extension cable.


  • Cannondale Speed 6

I’ve encountered a frustrating issue with my Zwift Click following the recent 1.63 update. While the controllers function perfectly, the virtual shifting feature no longer operates since the Zwift Click can’t be paired. It worked for a few months from January to March 2024. However, I’ve been unable to pair the Zwift Click since the update.

Previously, around November/December 2023, I faced similar problems with my Zwift Click. Thankfully, Zwift provided a replacement, which resolved the issue for about three months. Unfortunately, I’m now experiencing a recurrence of the problem, rendering both the Zwift Click and controllers unusable for virtual shifting.

It’s disappointing that the controllers cannot function as standalone devices without the Zwift Click. I’m uncertain about the specific coding within the Zwift Click that necessitates its presence for controller operation.

Despite attempting various troubleshooting steps repeatedly, including those listed below, the Zwift Click remains non-functional. The time and effort spent troubleshooting this issue have become increasingly frustrating, reaching a point where seeking alternative fitness solutions seems more viable.

For anyone encountering similar problems with their Zwift setup, here are some basic troubleshooting steps to try:

  1. Check Physical Connections: Ensure all cables connecting devices are securely plugged in, including those linking the Zwift Click to your computer or device. (I have tried at least 3 different Bluetooth dongles, all ending in the same result of Zwift Click not connecting. Or if it does connect for a moment, it disconnects within 10 seconds after leaving the pairing screen.)

  2. Restart Zwift: Close and reopen the Zwift application or game to potentially resolve any software glitches.

  3. Restart Devices: Power off both your computer or device running Zwift and the Zwift Click. After a brief pause, power them back on to reset any temporary issues.

  4. Update Software: Confirm you’re using the latest versions of the Zwift app and any firmware updates for your Zwift Click device. Developers often release updates to address bugs and enhance performance.

  5. Check Batteries: If applicable, ensure the batteries in your Zwift Click are not depleted. Consider replacing them, even if seemingly functional, to eliminate battery-related issues.

  6. Test with Another Device: If possible, connect your Zwift Click to a different computer or device to determine if the problem persists, helping to isolate the issue.

  7. Check Compatibility: Verify that your Zwift Click is compatible with the device running Zwift. Compatibility issues can arise if devices are not designed to work together seamlessly.

  8. Try pairing with “Phone Mode” instead of “Bluetooth Mode” (This still did NOT work for me.)

  9. Turn off or move other non-essential Bluetooth devices away from bike and laptop to eliminate conflicts.

  10. Tried isolating to the most basic devices, such as only connecting the trainer and the Zwift Click, but the farthest the Zwift Click gets is that it pairs for a moment, but within 10 seconds of leaving the pairing screen, it turns off. I have tried 5 different CR2032 batteries to eliminate possible low battery issues.

Even after trying everything above, the Zwift Click still does not work. Does anyone have anything else to try?

Also, regarding the Bluetooth dongles, I only used one at a time, not multiple dongles simultaneously. My aim was to find one that worked. The Bluetooth dongle with which I experienced some success between January and March 2024 was the TP-Link Bluetooth Adapter. The exact model is as follows:

TP-Link USB Bluetooth Adapter for PC, Bluetooth 5.0/5.3 Dongle Receiver, Plug and Play, Nano Design, EDR & BLE, Supports Windows 11/10/8.1/7 for Desktop, Laptop, PS5/PS4/Xbox Controller (UB500)

Further thought on this for a future potential workaround.

Does anyone know if you can use the Zwift Play Controllers for virtual shifting without having to sync the Zwift Click? Since my Zwift Click stopped working in version 1.63, this would be a non-issue if I could just use the Zwift Play Controllers as standalone devices for virtual shifting, without needing to sync the Zwift Click. When the Zwift Click isn’t synced to the game, the Virtual Shifting option disappears, leaving you stuck in one gear on the Hub One.

Yes you can use virtual shifting with only the Play controllers. You do not need the Click or the single-gear cog. If you replace the cog with a Hyperglide compatible multi-gear cassette you can also ride without virtual shifting even if the controllers don’t work for you.

Hello Paul,

But how and where? Where do you make these changes for the virtual shifting to come up on the top left side of the HUD without the Zwift Click being in Sync? It disappears if the Zwift Click is not detected.

And yes, I know I could just get a different cassette but would like to go the virtual shifting route. That is how I was setup before.

I guess when you pay for a new trainer expecting to use the HubOne with virtual gears it would be nice if it worked correctly.


John B

Does anyone know if you can use the Zwift Play Controllers without having to sync the Zwift click as well? My Zwift Click stopped working in 1.63, but it would be a non issue if I could just use the Play Controllers (as stand alone devices) for virtual shifting, without also having to sync the Zwift Click. When the Zwift Click is not synced to the game, the Virtual Shifting option disappears and all you are left with is being stuck in one gear on the Hub One.

Yes, you can use the Zwift Play controllers to do your virtual shifting without a Zwift Click.

Hello Steve, thanks for your post.

But how and where? Where do you make these changes for the virtual shifting to come up on the top right side of the HUD without the Zwift Click being in Sync?

And yes, I know I could just get a different cassette but would like to go the virtual shifting route.

Thanks again.

On the pairing screen, you pair the Play devices on the Controls tile, instead of the Click. The other thing to check after that is that Virtual Shifting is enabled in Zwift settings. Assuming the trainer is paired via Bluetooth, that should be all that’s required.

Yep, yep. I have tried that, and virtual shifting option does not show up if the Zwift Click is not synced. So I am not able to use the Play Controllers as shifters. Firmware and App software up to date.

This is not the expected result - something is not working properly. I recommend contacting support so they can look at your log files and give you advice. Many people use virtual shifting without ever owning the Click controller.

Sounds good Paul. Thanks for your help. I’ll reach out to support, to see if they can take a closer look.

Hi @John_Behring, welcome to Forums. It’s Juan here from Zwift. I appreciate you taking the time to look up community support.

I noticed that you’ve already contact my support colleagues. I’ve gone ahead and emailed you and I’m connecting you to the right Community Support Colleague in Zwift Support. Thanks for your valuable patience.

Thanks Juan, sounds good, we can connect on email.

My problem ended up being Bluetooth and ANT+ conflicts. I think something happened after the 1.63 update that either prioritized my ANT sensors over Bluetooth, causing either the Cadence sensor or the HubOne to switch into ANT+ mode instead of Bluetooth. You ALWAYS have to have everything set to Bluetooth between the HubOne, PlayControllers, and/or Zwift Click in order for the virtual shifting to work.

Bonus: Also, at some point, the PlayControllers do work as standalone devices to perform the virtual shifting without the need for the Zwift Click to be synced with the HubOne, which is super nice!

Side Note: I still use ANT+ for my ANT+ only HR monitor but someday will swap this out to avoid conflicts. I think sometimes my Garmin Cadence sensor favors ANT+ as well.

Thanks Paul, got it sorted out. Bluetooth/ANT+ conflicts. Also the Play Controllers do work as stand alone virtual shifting devices, nice!


Welcome back @John_Behring, Thanks for sharing updates. I’m glad to know that everything is going well.

If you need further assistance in the future, remember that we are just an email away. Ride On!

1 Like

I am also having an issue with Zwift Click not working at all. I just got the device, and my Kickr Zwift trainer. I installed that very latest Click firmware. The Click does connect, it does work when I do the tutorial in Settings > Controllers. However in Settings > Virtual Shifting, it is turned OFF and no matter what I do I can not turn it on. It’s impossible to toggle the setting in the UI (AppleTV 4k).

Hi @Brian_Doll, thanks for sharing your concern with us. I’m Juan. I appreciate the brief explanation.

I see you’ve already opened a support ticket, please let’s continue that interaction. That way we can provide you with adequate follow-up. See you there!