There are times when my RPM is stable, my power is stable, my gear is not changing and yet my speed is changing depending on the incline of the hill. So, same gear, same power, same rpm, but going between 8 and 28 MPH. Speed goes down when I go up hill and up when I go down hill. It usually doesn’t do that. Usually, I have to down shift or put out more power going up a hill.
Is this alone a feature (something to configure) or a bug (something to fix)?
I have an Elite XR-T with zwift running on windows 11. I would really like to find the log files but they stopped being produced back in May. So, that might be another issue.
I did try adding an ANT dongle rather than use BT (there were other issues of dropping connections, I think, so I was hoping this would fix both issues) but my first ride with ANT did the same thing. I was going fairly slowly as I have a sore back and just want to take it easy right now.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt
Are you, by chance, in ERG mode?
Nigel, that’s probably a very good question … because I have no idea what that is. How can I tell? I can’t find any sort of configuration.
Have you paired the Resistance device as well as Power? Can you share a screenshot of your device pairing screen in Zwift ?
What’s your current ‘trainer difficulty’ slider setting? Default is 50% - what you describe is what it would be like at 0% (all roads would feel ‘flat’ but the game would still take your actual watts and apply it to the terrain to get your in-game speed over the ground). But I think you’d have to have explicitly set it to zero.
When this is happening your power output reading in watts is (relatively) steady, yes?
When using ANT plus make sure to use the FEC connection that pops up in Zwift when pairing the trainer both resistance and power.
Steve, I was wondering about that. When I added the ant dongle it was giving me several choices per device so I just grabbed one. Everything is paired. I went and changed everything to FE-C. I have no idea what that is. What are all of these options? Different protocols? Under BT I don’t think there was any choices, or it just grabbed one and I don’t know which.
Wade, the trainer difficulty is at 50%.
Mike, I changed everything to FE-C. I hope that isn’t a mistake.
I will try it again tomorrow and see if the FE-C options work. I wish there were a bit more guidance for this type of configuration.
This seems like a pretty big issue… should be in documents/zwift/logs or something similar.
This is the way, you want FE-C if using ant plus. Bluetooth will only have one option, so you couldnt have made other choices there.
ERG mode is used during workouts, not when “free riding” or when doing group rides. You can learn more about anything zwift related at zwiftinsider.com
There is a big learning curve with zwift so ask as many questions as you need to, the community is great and helpful!
Hello
So you can only change erg mode in the menu when running tests on zwift? Then I get that choice among the icons, but not during race.
( new on this 
)
Hopefully this article answers your question about ERG mode.
Frustration. I changed everything to “Elite FE-C” and that didn’t change anything. Then I reinstalled Zwift and that didn’t change anything, other than now there is only one option under at least the resistance driver.
I did find the log files, though. They’re under ODDocuments and not Documents. Hey Zwift, can I suggest just using a configuration file.
I’m wondering if the resistance is not working? First of all, I put my bike in its highest gear and I was going up an 8% grade and it didn’t feel like anything (150 W?) and this is not Erg mode. Erg mode can only be used in a training session and not on a regular ride, like I was doing. So, assuming the trainer is not doing anything with information about resistance being sent from the Zwift app, and the app knows this, then my guess is the trainer is just going to sit at some default resistance and the app is going to assume that. So, it looks like Erg mode.
Next I’m going to get the Elite trainer app and just see if the trainer is working.
I’m still open to other ideas.
I tried using the Elite app and it wouldn’t connect to my Elite XR-T trainer correctly. It found the trainer but not the resistance, cadence or power. So I couldn’t do anything with that. Then I read the Elite manual and it mentioned things that are clearly not up to date anymore (drivers I’ve never seen and a flash drive required for ant+ to work)
Then I went back to trying the Zwift app and it worked better. Unfortunately, not as good as before. If I put my bike in it’s highest gear and peddled close to a 100 rpm up a 7 - 8% grade I could get the power meter up to 300 some watts.
Is there anything else to adjust?
You should be able to pair the trainer to the Elite MyEtraining app. I assume that’s the app you tried? Then in there you can ride in what they call Level Mode and there are controls to manually alter the resistance up and down, so you can see if that’s working. If it won’t pair to the app make sure the trainer isn’t already paired to something else (e.g. don’t pair it directly to the BT in your phone settings, let the Elite app pair it).
I went back to Bluetooth (and turned it off on my phone so no conflicts). I also killed the Zwift launcher app (I have no idea if it’s poking around on Bluetooth or not). I did get the Elite MyTraining app to work, eventually. I think I told it to start over and re-pair the trainer. Anyway, that works fine with Bluetooth. Level 10 is pretty much impossible for me to move the pedals, so the trainer works.
Then I went back to Zwift, still on Bluetooth. It took a while to pair. I had to select and it showed Direto 61, or something like that. Anyway, it works. That’s a relief.
Maybe this should be a different thread, but the reason I tried Ant in the first place was there are times when things get goofy with the signals. Namely, when my wife is upstairs on her phone, presumably using Bluetooth or possibly our 2.4GHz wifi, I can suddenly find myself pedaling but my avatar stops to take a break. Eventually it gets going again but it can get really annoying. Call it lazy avatar syndrome. I have also seen the erg-ish mode problem, but it will end when the ride ends.
I’m starting to think the problem is too many signals in my basement. I have read that some channels in the 2.4GHz wifi band conflict with Bluetooth and Ant and there is usually a way to tell the router to not use those channels. Either that or I figure out a simple way to turn that part of the wifi off while I ride. Unfortunately, my wifi router is 10 feet from my trainer.