I’m not seeing a broad uptick in WDC disconnections, but we’ll be happy to investigate more if you’d like to open a Support ticket.
I recommend first rebooting your router, rebooting your Wahoo trainer via the Wahoo app, then rebooting your Zwift device to make sure you’re starting from a fresh perspective.
Also, if you’re spending a significant amount of time (over 15 minutes) idle on the home screen after pairing, this may skew the results on your connection stability. I’m not sure if this applies to all trainers, but for an ideal connection, I recommend outputting watts within a few minutes to keep the trainer from trying to go into a standby mode. If you do go idle on the home screen for a bit while you’re making a coffee, I recommend disconnecting and reconnecting on the pairing screen before starting your activity.
Again, these are just recommendations for an ideal connection to help remove variables and highlight bugs. If you’re experiencing frequent and regular drop outs, please reach out and we can analyze your logs to see what’s going on.
I can’t open a support ticket from here - I get looped into a circle either to chat with a bot that won’t let me open a ticket or to go to the forums page. And this has happened the last 2 days; again.
I’ve not been having any particular Wi-Fi drops through my pairing with ATV but wanted to have a direct connection or Wi-Fi direction connection for the Kickr Bike v2 I’ve just purchased.
I’m having 2 issues (I have a Orbi Netgear mesh network and the routers are no more than 8 meters away)
Wi-Fi connection on the Wahoo app does not recognise my Wi-Fi (but it finds all my neighbours. I’ve tried manually entering it, no avail
Bought the Direct Connect module, plugged it in, but the Kickr won’t connect to the Network (I don’t have a firewall, so no blocks in place) The green lights in the Ethernet flash green but on the Wahoo app is saying the Kickr isnt connected to the network!!!i
Really annoyed if I’m honest, such an expensive piece of kit and I can’t even use the main feature on it (which means I can’t then use Race Mode)
For the Speed Test, it was ATV connected on the Wi-Fi. This works fine and always has done.
When I connect the Kickr via Wi-Fi or via the direct connect, this is where the issue is. I connect it to my switch, which is then routed to the Orbi router - I’m suspecting this is the issue (I.e switch)
Do you have the DC connected to the port beside where it is hardwired to your ORB? I ask because my DC would not work if I was in the port next to the wire to my router, and are you sure its a switch and not a hub?
I’ve connect the Direct Connect to a Orbi Satellite (I moved one from a different room to the Kickr)
The Orbi Satellite is Wi-Fi/connected to the main Orbi router (obviously )
However, the issue I have now is that once direct connect is linked ‘Discoverable on the Network’ the Kickr does not pick up the Wi-Fi off the Orbi satellite (the same one Direct Connect is plugged in) the Satellite is right in front of the Kickr and there are no blocks on it.
If you are plugged into an orb, you are still on wifi, because as you say you are wifi to the router from it. You need to plug directly into the router. When that happens it opens another connection with an RJ45 plug icon in Zwift, you don’t want to connect to the wifi/bluetooth connection.
But my main question remains, why won’t the Kickr pick up my Wi-Fi? It picks all other connections around my house, just not the one that is a yard in front of it.
Do I need to make any settings changes on the Orbi (not sure what this would be)
I did manage to get the Kickr on the network, I had to disable the 5G on my Orbi router for the Kickr to then pick up the signal. Even though the Orbi runs both 2.4 and 5 at the same time, the Kickr wouldn’t pick it up until I disabled 5G, it picked up the Wi-Fi immediately.
This was a short-term fix as then this affects the rest of my mesh so I will be going back to default but having a Ethernet connection to the Orbi satellite.
Wahoo replied back saying RACE MODE for Kickr Bike v2 is not available for it and looking around end of the year release (really disappointment with that - most expensive piece of kit on the indoor product line and doesn’t have a feature that was released on the Kickr v5 in Feb)
Have you tried using different network names for the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands? That is usually possible on most WiFi access points. That would allow you to force the trainer onto the 2.4GHz band.
Looks like this may be possible but it’s not exposed through the web UI and has to be done in a terminal connection. This info is a few years old and I don’t have access to one of these to test it.
I may be digging up an old thread, but I need some help. I have a kickr that was dropping BT…seems it was after an upgrade, so I bought a Direct connect thinking I could have a solid connection.
Plugged it into the PC and while zwift sees it, there is ZERO wattage showing when I pedal. Ironically, I no longer even have the wrench to do a spin down calibration. If I try to go back to BT, it’s all sorts of confused, so i have a paperweight. When I do get it to connect via BT, I have to stay under 100 watts - anything over and the system drops.
What can I do with DC and a windows pc to troubleshoot and resolve?
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