Kicker Snap- Power goes to 0 when sprinting/wheel going fast

Whenever I sprint or my wheel is going fast, power output goes to zero. This frequently happens at the start of a race, right when I have accelerated to try to stay with the pack( and immediately get dropped!). Usually followed by absurd power level. I’ve attached the latest work out as an example. I have good wifi, no slippage, and nothing in the way of the ANT+. Any ideas?

Firmware update?

are you pairing with the FE-C option for ANT+?

FE-C both for power source and controllable trainer.

Done multiple spin downs with Wahoo app. Is there a separate firmware update? I’ll look into that thanks. When my kids ride (the whole family uses it now… guess why;-), ERG levels are sometimes too hard.

no, it would be the same Wahoo Utility app that you do the spin down with.

Do you have one of the newer snaps with the Bluetooth and ANT+ led lights on the top? if so…
KICKR SNAP '17 Firmware v2.3.63 - 7 November 2018

If an older one it would be…
Original SNAP v2.3.59 - 4 October 2017

I would also suggest dropping a recent log file into zwiftalizer.com and see how your ANT+ signal is doing, looks like an interference issue to me. Did you move things around recently so all the kids could use it too?

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Thanks Mike. Are the log files accessible from my account? I downloaded the .fit file, but that seems different. Originally I thought it was an ANT or FE-C problem, but it’s really consistent: I go hard, rear wheel accelerates (not even in biggest gear, like a 53 x15) and power goes to zero. Then 15 seconds later it goes to 2000!

Here is how you find the log file:

So Zwiftalizer showed a few ANT fails, but they don’t sync up with the power loss.

. The most interesting thing I found, when doing the fivestep calibration in Zwift for the FE-C Snap, during the spin up it would never get to 37 KPH. I could bring it to 33 at most, despite sprinting all out.

but that is a lot actually, you shouldn’t have them. Something is causing it in the environment.

don’t use the calibration in Zwift, it is recommended to always use the manufacturers app. Wahoo Utility app in your case.

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I’m using an old Garmin Speed&Cadence sensor for cadence only. Any chance that would cause interference with top end?