Is the issue low power/not accurate power or signal drops? I’m assuming you have updated the Kickr firmware recently (an update came out in early June) and have done spindowns with the Wahoo Utility app?
The kickr reports 45 watts into zwift but my Garmin pedals report over 600 watts at the same time. Kickr shows as it’s on the latest available firmware and wahoo had me do a very comprehensive set of tests and there were no function issues or power issues during these tests. If I pair the pedals with zwift and manually control the kickr on the wahoo app it works but it’s impossible to race like this as I can’t change the settings fast enough, workouts and socials are doable but annoying.
Also the v2 hasn’t had firmware update since October 17.
Can you pair the pedals as your power source and the Kickr as the controllable trainer? That should work.
I’m also curious if you have tried without using the power meter pedals, could they be interfering with the Kickr? Since you are getting this same result (Zwift not getting the correct power reading) on multiple devices and platforms, it makes me think something else is causing it.
Tried both of those. Pedals as power and trainer as controllable = total lockup and cant move pedals at all. Pedals off (well away and not discoverable) no difference, still not working. I paired the kickr with ant with the kickr and read 45 watts at the same time I pair the kickr with Bluetooth to wahoo app on phone and get a totally different power reading 600+ watts (incidentally the same as the pedals read) I have spent 3 weeks trying every possible variant and I have even done a frequency scan to see if there are any new signals and there aren’t. I have even tried removing the WiFi hub and all radio devices from the garage and just run the laptop from a cable patched into the main switch and that’s the same too.
And the Tacx works fine on the same devices/setup, makes me think something is wrong with the Kickr? But you went down that road with Wahoo already and they said everything is fine…
I’m stumped 
When you reinstalled Zwift did you search the PC for all files/directories with the term Zwift and delete everything, then reinstall?
Yup, me too. TvOS was ok before today so I could get by but now that and iOS is broke too I’m stuck with nothing ( I can’t use the wheel on as I have broken 2 already)
It was absolutely perfect before June 11 and I have never had an issue (other than the odd slow internet or on screen glitch) I bought the kickr back in 2016 and other than shredding belts it’s been perfect but this has me properly confused. By trade I am an engineer so I have already tried the obvious before asking for support. Even the check/test list wahoo sent I had already done but re did all in the interests of being thorough. I have even tried another laptop that has never had zwift installed and that had the same issue.
I guess next step is borrow another kickr with the same firmware? Trouble is I only know people with the V1 or the newer ones…
Or take your Kickr to a friends house and use their setup/devices?
I still don’t get why I can get perfect operation in the wahoo app. I would rather it was all broke so at least I could fix it or replace it. I can get a neo and a neo 2 to test on it later this week but it means I have to race in manual mode this week and it so irritating having to keep changing the settings on the fly
I don’t get it either. Can you run zwift on the same device that the wahoo app is on?
Yeah I tried that too. No good, same issue as tvOS and w10. The only issue is then I can’t read what the kickr is doing but I think it’s safe to assume it’s the same
A club mate had issues with his Kickr which turned out to be sunlight shining on its optical sensor and confusing it. Really. He noticed that it was always a similar time of day that the problem happened (the sunlight moving around and shining in). When he rigged up some cardboard to shield the unit from the sun, all his problems went away. He found out about this after a lot of research and experimentation, and he eventually found others complaining about the same issue.
This might have nothing to do with your issue, but I’m putting it out there on the off-chance.
1 Like
So Im having similar issues…
Wahoo Kickr, latest FW
Apple Macbook Pro - updated Zwift App
I just did a workout (the Gorby) with ERG mode on and the power just would not work properly…warming up was a max spin session!!! I had to spin at 125 RPM to get close to the warm up watts, then as it built up to an interval it would not get close to the target wattage… I span up to about 130RPM and it was stuck at the warm up power (155W). Eventually, after about a minute it seemed to get there, of course the workout was ruined. In general too the wattage seems to jump all over the place, even after the workout mode finished and SIM mode came back - and yes there was the issue where the cooldown wattage hang on for ages so I would spin and spin and spin and get nowhere!
Im using BLE, the companion app was open and updated, everything should be fine.
Ive just done a spindown too
I wish it was that @Steve_Hammatt it’s inside the garage with no windows and the door is shut. It’s an issue I was aware of. I must say at least I am getting support here if not from zwift themselves thanks @Mike_Rowe_PBR @Steve_Hammatt and @DKE_Watson 
1 Like
Glad it’s not just me but sorry you are having issues too @Mark_Hadley, has yours just started or did yours follow the 11/06 update?
I have seen some of these symptoms before (like when workout finishes you get stuck on the cool-down power) but its far worse after the latest update (not sure which one, I havent used it for a couple of weeks)
Just got the following from support…might be worth trying:
Your Zwift account information seems from our end to show your pairing ANT+ and Bluetooth simultaneously for you KICKR. You account information shows you previously had chosen the same titled Bluetooth connection for all your choices on the Zwift pairing screen.
I recommend that you delete the prefs.xml and knowndevices.xml files from your Zwift folder. These files store your in-app preferences and information about devices that you’ve previously paired. Occasionally, these files can hang on to incorrect information, such as a wrong trainer selection, or a device paired in the wrong spot (e.g. a speed sensor paired in the cadence spot).
Modifying the files in your Documents/Zwift folder can also have unintended consequences, from your avatar appearing on the wrong course to display issues, or being unable to pair your devices, and is something that we generally don’t recommend. When these two files are deleted, they will regenerate fresh copies the next time you launch Zwift.
Here’s what you’ll need to do:
- Exit and close Zwift. Make sure Zwift is closed from your taskbar (Windows) or your dock (Mac), as well.
- Open the Documents folder on your computer.
- Open your Zwift folder.
- Delete the files named prefs.xml and knowndevices.xml, then close these folders.
- Launch Zwift again and pair your devices in the correct spots on the Zwift pairing screen, then go for a ride. Please carefully pick the same exact titled choice for “Power” “Control” and “Cadence”; unless you have a separate device for “Cadence”.
NOTE: This will not affect your progress in Zwift, but you will need to pair your devices and sensors again, as if for the first time. This will also reset your Zwift game preferences.
2 Likes
Thanks for sending. I’ve never paired with ANT+ before, but it’s worth a shot.
1 Like
I was looking through those Ppef’s and Favourites files and noticed all sorts of devices listed including my power meter pedals from my main bike…thats the smoking gun, my main bike is hung on the wall - I went out on a ride the other day on it and complained that the Vector pedals batteries were low…I wonder if thats been causing interference
1 Like