Think you found a bug or need a helping hand from the community? Post your troubles here.
Stuck in Innsbruck when I login with a dozen others, do I need to reinstall
Hi, I have reported this bug, but thought it worth sharing also.
If using a Watt Bike with Zwift, you may come across this little bug, that can allow you to cheat in sprints, climbs etc.
I have a Watt Bike, Monitor B, and Zwift on iPad.
If I peddle to any given wattage, say 450w as an example, and instantly stop peddling, the Watt Bike does not detect this and continues to read you last cadence and power outputs. This power output is then broadcast to Zwift and you continue at that wattage until the WattBike monitor goes to sleep. Therefore if you monito is set to “do not sleep” you can produce wattage for an infinite period.
What this looks like in Zwift is a cyclist that is producing wattage but is free wheeling, look out for them, they maybe cheating the system.
I found this accidentally, but have since proved that this is a bug, as I built wattage upto 1200w for a sprint about half a mile before the sprint to get speed up, and then went through the sprint traps and recorded really quick times. I then tried a hill climb, and won that too.
The only current protection for this, is that if you produce too many watts for too long, you do get a warning message up, however if you keep wattage to 700w, you seem not to trigger this message, and can go for ever.
Zwift say they are aware, but have not yet fixed the bug.
Which day were you stuck on the InnsBruck course? Was it supposed to be a Watopia day or a different course?
One of the only reasons your game avatar will be on the wrong course for the day is if there’s a problem with your prefs.xml file. If you’re using a computer, you can delete your prefs file and that should do the trick. Here’s how you do it:
- Exit and close Zwift.
- Open the Documents–>Zwift folder on your computer and delete the file named prefs.xml.
- Launch Zwift again, try a ride, and see if that helps.
- NOTE: After deleting the prefs.xml file, you will have to pair your devices and sensors again, as if for the first time.
The only way to delete the prefs file on Android or iOS Zwift is to delete the app and reinstall it from the Google Play or iOS App Store.
Give that a try and let me know how it goes!
Thanks for reporting this potential game bug. I’ll flag it up to our dev team and make sure it gets some attention.
Also, if you haven’t seen our Zwift KB article for “setting up the Wattbike Pro/Trainer”, I’d recommend that you give it a read just to make sure your setup is optimized for use with Zwift.
It also would be good if we could take a look at the log files from your iPad just to make sure there’s nothing else with your setup that would be contributing to your wattage getting stuck at a high number during your rides. Here’s how to send them:
Open the Zwift app.
On the Title Screen, tap the Zwift logo three times in a row.
Tap the log files you want to save from the list on the left (they’re timestamped), then click OK.
A prompt will appear over Zwift. You can either email them to email@example.com with your mail client or save them to your device and attach them to your reply to this instead.
Please let me know when you’ve sent them over, and I’ll take a look. If you choose to send your logs to firstname.lastname@example.org, please include your Zwift email address in the email body so we can locate them quickly.
Please reply to this thread and let us know that you’ve sent your logs in.
I appreciate your help!
Companion App the game does not function. When I use the app with my lap top it recently does not open the game portion. I use it to make coarse turns. This started in the past two days. I uninstalled the app and reinstalled still not functioning. S7 Galaxy Samsung phone.
When I’ve been going on Zwift, I have been pedalling when all of a sudden the power seems to drop completely to zero and the cadence reading rockets up to figures such as 8000rpm+! The system then reconnects and continues as normal, however this process occurs regularly during the ride. Is there a way this could be fixed??
p.s (I have also been using an extension cable for the ANT+ dongle to improve the signal strength, but this had had no effect on the described issue.)