I have an Elite Qubo Power Fluid Smart B+ with the Misuro+ Sensor. The sensor is set to 5 “Blinks” and everything seems fine. While I am riding, Zwift says I’m doing upwards of 30 MPH when I’m doing more like 10 MPH. When I did the speed test on the Elite eTrainer app on my phone, it was pretty accurate. Reading 10 MPH for the pace. Same pace in Zwift had me above 30 MPH. Tires are correctly inflated, everything is good… It just seems to be way off in Zwift. Please help. Oh… and when I went to start the first time, it said set my trainer to “Level 3”… I cannot set resistance on this trainer, it is done automatically by weight.
Zwift calculates speed based on your rear wheels speed and the know power curve of your trainer and converts that to watts which in turn determines your in-game speed.
The speed in Zwift will not and should not match the speed in which your rear wheel is turning.
But to be off by that much? If you Check my data, it says I burned over 2k calories in 36 minutes and had watts over 1200. I normally do 15 miles in about 65 minutes. The game has me at like 20 in 36. And I was passing literally everyone
Take a look at a couple of these threads: https://support.zwift.com/hc/en-us/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&query=Elite+Qubo+Power+Fluid+Smart+B%2B&commit=Search
Can you post a screen shot of the Pairing screen (where you choose the trainer, speed sensor and cadence sensor). do you use ant+ and a separate speed cadence sensor?
You should not be producing 1200 watts that sound like something is wrong. are you sure you have the correct trainer selected. It look like you have a classic trainer (dumb trainer) therefore zwift will use a power curve to calculate your power based on the speed of your wheel, as Paul said. It sound strange that Zwift ask you to set the resistance level when your trainer does not have that setting.
There is some post relating to the Misuro+ Sensor and it seem that it does not play with zwift. The solution in this thread was to get a ANT+ garmin speed and cadence sensor and a ANT+ usb dongle.
I had a look at your account, and it shows you’re pairing the Misuro B+ as Speed. According to Elite’s guide, you can have the Misuro B+ transmit power with your trainer, so we recommend that instead. Give that a try!
I know this thread is several months old. But I just got a Hammer smart trainer and signed up Zwift for last week. So far, I’d say that Zwift is reading a little bit slower than real life… I can go for a training ride outdoors and cruise along at 17-18mph. On Zwift, I’m cranking big ring and a middle of the cassette to hit 17-18mph. Going up hills, I can upshift, speed up my cadence and get up a 5% grade about 10-11mph. In zwift, I have to keep it in a higher gear and barely reach 8mph.
Hi Glen, Welcome to Zwift.
There are a few things that may influence the speed in game, check your weight that it is entered in the correct units (lb or Kg) and tire pressure.
You can also compare a Real life strava segment to a Zwift segment in strava, find a flat section in both and compare do the same with a 5% climb.
Zwift do try to simulate real world riding but there are factors that may make one feel different than the other.
Weight is good. Tires wouldn’t matter, because it’s direct drive. I will see if I can sync strava and compare some segments.
Do you use a power meter during IRL rides? If so I would compare watt numbers between IRL and Zwift to see if they closely match.
Speed is just a by product of other variables and should not be used as a measure of fitness or used to compare IRL and Zwift.
I don’t Paul. I know it’s probably impossible to mirror IRL, and I’m not using it to measure fitness. I’m just inquiring because I have to work my butt off in a higher gear and higher cadence on zwift to attain similar mph that I do when I’m on the road. Which I guess is good. That’s what I bought the trainer for… Training