Zwift Freewheel Hub

I bought a Zwift Hub One and received it yesterday. The Clicker stopped working after 3 hrs of use.

The battery has been replaced, updated the firmware but it still does not want to work. I am now looking at swapping the hub out with a Shimano freewheel hub but looks like it is not available on the Zwift site.

Is there anything on the market that is compatible?


The freehub is Shimano Hyperglide format, so pretty much all Shimano road cassettes and copies will work. MTB cassettes will work if not Microspline format. You can’t go far wrong by getting a cassette with the same gearing and number of cogs as you have on your rear wheel. A 1.8mm spacer may be needed to fit it.

Paul has answered the specific question you asked.

I have a question if I may.

Whilst the clicker was working did you enjoy riding the single cog using the clicker? If so do you not wish to try and resolve the clicker issue, be that through this forum offering possible help and advice or through Zwift for a refund or replacement?

Of course if you did not enjoy the clicker and one cog experience then a shimano Road cassette is a sensible way to proceed as this will allow you to use your Hub with any other game/application.

Hi @Johan_Geyser welcome to Zwift Forums.

Shuji at Zwift HQ here. I looked at your server logs and as of yesterday’s last successful pairing of your Click - it was on firmware version 1.0.0. Please update to the latest firmware version 1.1.0 before we take next steps. That link will take you to a video showing how to update the firmware using the Zwift Companion app. IMPORTANT: your Click must not be paired to the game app, or the Companion app will not "see’ it for the firmware update.

The single-speed Zwift Cog is comprised of the 14 tooth cog and two plastic guide discs mounted to a Shimano Hyperglide-compatible freehub body. Using an HG lockring tool and a chain whip, you can remove the cog and plastic discs, and replace it with an 8/9/10/11/12 speed Hyperglide compatible cassette of your choice. Instructions are shown in this video.

One thing to note: once you get the Click working - you can use Virtual Shifting in combination with physical shifting of the derailleur. More information on this previous thread.

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Hi Shuji,
I updated the firmware this morning. The Clicker switches on and sometime only stay on for a few seconds and switches off. Other times it switches on for a while but would not connect before switching off.

I swapped the hub with a cassette and used it for about 15min this evening. I got off and when I got back on I could not get the trainer to connect, I tried different Android phones without success.

Any more pointers to resolve the issues. I’m quite frustrated at this point. First the clicker and now the trainer.


Thanks for the update. A couple things might be getting in your way, the most troublesome being that you’re logged into the game app from two devices at the same time.


  1. Power off all your Samsungs. Wait 2 minutes at least to allow the server to recognize they’re all logged out.
  2. Power up your S23 and open the Companion app > Hardware tab
  3. Turn on your Click by touching either button.
  4. Your Click should show up. Please confirm firmware v 1.1.1 is installed.
  5. Power off the S23
  6. Power up the S22 only, and log into the game.
  7. Pair to your trainer’s power signal first. over Bluetooth (not ANT+)
  8. Then pair to the Resistance signal. Resistance must be paired for Virtual Shifting to matter.
  9. Then pair to trainer’s cadence signal.
  10. Then pair to the Click. Does it work this time?

This is expected. The blue LED shuts off once connected to the game to save battery.

Here’s what I see in your server logs, and what I recommend:

  1. I am seeing you have the game app installed on two different Samsung devices. a Galaxy S8+ on Android 9 and a Galaxy S22 Ultra on Android 13. The problem is that you’re logged in to your account from both devices at the same time.

Always force-close the app, rather than backgrounding it, which leaves it running. This is how to force-close on more recent Android OS versions. I don’t remember if that applies to Android 9 or not.

Anyway - sign out of both devices. Wait 2 minutes for the server to recognize that you’ve ended both sessions. Then log in from your preferred device to run the main app. The S22 is significantly newer, so I’d recommend you use it to run the main app.

I’d uninstall the Zwift main app from the S8 so you can’t log in from two devices at the same tim.

  1. There are times when you connected your trainer to the S8 over ANT+ instead of Bluetooth. Virtual Shifting is not supported on ANT+, only Bluetooth. FYI - almost all Android phone makers have dropped support for ANT+ in recent years, so your S22 will not be capable of using ANT.

  2. I am seeing an S23 Ultra running the Companion app. If it has a newer, more capable processor than the S22, is it possible to use this phone to run the main app instead, and one of the older phones to run the Companion app?

Thanks Paul,
I swapped the hub yesterday and it works fine. I’m still struggling with the Clicker but I’m in touch with support. i’m getting some real good response from them.

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Hi Ian,
Yes, I did and it allows me to swap between my 9 and 11 speeds without the faffing with changing the cassettes.

I am trying to get it resolved and I’m in touch with support; I received list of things to check which i will get to when I get home after my travels this week. I will post an update.

The response from support was very good so far, i had a response within 2 hrs after sending them a mail and another one within 30min after responding to their mail.

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