**Hey Zwifters!!
I need your help with Elite Suito (2020) + Zwift Cog install.**
I have an Elite Suito from 2020 with the factory-installed Elite cassette. The cassette does not have a traditional lockring.
I bought a Zwift Cog for Elite Suito:
Zwift support keeps sending cassette-removal instructions (lockring, spacers, chain whip, etc.) that don’t match my hardware. I have been speaking to them for nearly a month.
Elite support says the correct method is to remove the entire cassette + freehub together using their rotating right-nut tool + 6 mm Allen key. Annoyingly i can’t include a link but you could search “TOOL + ROTATING RIGHT NUT JUSTO, JUSTO 2, AVANTI, RIVO, DIRETO XR, SUITO”
The problem is that this tool is hard to source in the UK and costs over €25 with shipping.
Has anyone successfully installed a Zwift Cog on a 2020 Elite Suito?
If so:
-
Did you remove the entire freehub + cassette together, or
-
Did you keep the freehub and remove only the cassette?
If you removed the freehub: what tool did you actually use?
Any first-hand experience would really help
Here you go. Yep, that’s the one Elite recommended, but it has crazy high shipping and long delivery times.
I don’t think you need to remove that nut to get the cassette off. It looks like the cassette has a regular lockring, so you need a conventional lockring tool to get that off, not Elite’s special tool.
Edit - ah, you want to remove the freehub too. But I don’t think you need to do that - you just need to take the Cog off the supplied freehub, then when you remove the cassette from your trainer you should be able to slide the Cog onto the trainer’s freehub.
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Thanks, Steve. Elite seem to think i need the tool to remove it, i’m no expert and no idea if it’s different due to this being the pre-assembled one the trainer game with.
How hard is it to remove the freehub from the cog? Ideally, would keep that together as it seems a good chance to replace the freehub too.
I have an alternative idea for you. I bought the Click & Cog (v2) for my Suito last year, but I am only using the Click. I’ve kept my cassette on the bike and it’s been absolutely fine. Zwift will calibrate itself in the first few seconds of each ride and as long as you don’t manually change gear, the shifting with the Click works great.
You’d need a cassette locking tool and a chain whip. A bike shop may well be willing to do this for you - it’ll only take them a few seconds.
Thanks. But you don’t think i need the tool Elite recommends? Just a regular locking tool and chain whip to remove the cassette and free hub?
I hadn’t thought about that, thanks! But ideally, I’d change the cassette. It does need doing either way.
To remove the freehub from the Zwift Cog, no, you don’t need the special Elite tool.
I’ll have another go at the conventional way and report back. Thanks
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Also, it seems to me that the special Elite tool is only needed to remove the cassette and freehub in a single step. The description of that tool is misleading in saying that it’s to remove the cassette, which it isn’t because it’s a tool to remove the freehub.
You could also remove the freehub from the trainer without the special tool in two separate steps. First you’d remove the cassette in the usual way, with a locking tool plus a chain whip. Then without the cassette and lockring in the way you’d have easy access to that nut securing the freehub, and you could likely easily remove that with a wrench of the appropriate size or an adjustable wrench.
Yes you do get better access to the end nut by removing the cassette, but the thing is made of Chinesium and distorts as soon as you wave a spanner near it. You need to be able to fill the end with a suitable size socket/pipe/bar fully so as to stop it collapsing in on itself. That’s all the Elite tool does. I paid a small fortune for mine (along with a replacement) after ovalising mine.
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Yep, I seem to be in this situation now. Not sure how to get the Freehub off without making the end nut very bad (Will I need it again?). The wrench can’t seem to turn it. I don’t want to keep going, I’m wary I may have gone too far now… Not sure what options I have now, will I still need this when I put on the Zwift cog? Perhaps I take it to a bike shop…
Have you not tried removing the Zwift Cog from its supplied freehub and simply installing that and keeping your trainer’s existing freehub? I don’t understand why you’re persisting in trying to take that freehub off.
I’m pretty sure you don’t need the supplied freehub but it would be certainly easy to check by trying to install the Cog onto the trainer’s freehub.
I haven’t, i presume the cog acts as the cassette, so it’s the same process. I wanted to take the freehub off as it’s a chance to put a new one on, as the current one has been on for a while and seen quite a few miles.
But you’re right, in principle, I could keep the current one on.
A freehub is usually a very long-lasting item, and isn’t something that needs changing in normal maintenance - only if it breaks for some reason.
There’s no need to replace your freehub if it’s not broken. Simply remove the Cog from the supplied freehub and install it onto your trainer’s existing freehub. Easy, and no need to mess with that nut that you can’t seem to remove.
I’ve put the cog onto the existing freehub. But my attempt at taking it off distorted the nut and it’s now wobbly where the axle and skewer come through.
Also, my watts seem to be so low. Can barely get it to go over 100… I’ve done a calibration through elite but still no change in zwift.
