Why was I disqualified on Zwift Power

I am new to this racing on Zwift thing but am still trying to work out how to actually have my results count in the rankings on Zwiftpower. In my first race I entered as Cat B because it was my first attempt so understand that I may have been in the wrong category.

For my second race, I entered as Cat A and busted my balls to get myself up to 12th only to find that I still have the 20mins (BS) tag against my entry and no ranking in the result. Does anyone have an idea why?

Can you link to the zwiftpower results?

This is my profile where you can see the 2 non-ranking races
https://zwiftpower.com/profile.php?z=2021830

This is the race that I think I have wrongly been disqualified from
https://zwiftpower.com/events.php?zid=733604

As I said I raced in Cat A

Here is the activity from Zwift itself

Your power numbers are massive. So that would have raised the flag. What trainer/power source are you using and are you able to calibrate it? I’m not exactly sure on why others with higher w/kg for the 20 minutes didn’t get booted but some would have verified their power numbers or would be marked as pro in game.

BTW zwiftpower is a third party website with their own forum and they make their own decisions on how to disqualify people (separate to zwift itself). Different race organisers specify different rules on zwiftpower about how strict they will be.

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I’m using a Tacx Satori with speed and cadence sensors from Wahoo.

Does this mean I can’t effectively race?

I do have strong power in short races like this. my power numbers are ver similar to spin classes I have attended in the past. Never done an FTP before getting into Zwift a few weeks ago but my max power has been up to 1100w in a sprint.

Is this one of the trainers that you have to put the trainer on a certain resistance to calibrate it? Check the instructions on calibration, if you are on the wrong setting then it will not read right.

When you calibrate the trainer you need to make sure the tyre is at 100psi and you have been riding for 5-10 minutes to warm it up. If it’s cold the numbers will not be right.

You should be able to race with it.

BTW zwiftpower makes its own rules separate to zwift about what it does. Different races have different levels of strictness.

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Yes it needs to be on setting 4 which it is.

My tires are always around the 100psi and I have specific indoor trainer tires.

I would have thought the Tour For All would be one of the less strict races. Which is why I started with that one. Maybe I will just have to ignore Zwift power until I can either get a power meter or a smart trainer.

To be clear the Satori is not listed but when I looked online the advice was that it is exactly the same as the Tacx Blue Motion.

Thanks for your help BTW

There seems to be a few different types of satori over the years. I would increase the resistance so you get a work out and don’t get disqualified.

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Yes mine is the original version which is now called the Blue Motion. Exact same set up with no part features just a handlebar mounted resistance selector.

Ok. If I were you I’d search the forums. Seems to be a few posts about that trainer, you might find someone has worked out what resistance setting is most realistic.

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looks like a mixed bag of setting to L4 or L5 on the trainer.

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I’d say it’s not the W/kg that are the problem, but the raw power.

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Nearly 500W for 20 minutes solid? I mean, it’s possible, but unlikely. Looking at some of the best riders on the platform, they’re nowhere near that.

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Looks like a very badly calibrated/set up trainer.

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Disqualification tags are explained here: https://zwiftpower.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5337

Look down the bottom…

Yes I had found that but didn’t realise that my set up could be so far off that would be disqualified. I’m probably going to have to invest in some Garmin pedals if I want to carry on taking this seriously. Then at least I can prove my data is accurate.

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Yeah, if your power is so high that you’re outputting pro cycling levels of power or more I think it’s reasonable to ask for a proper power source

There’s an extremely low chance your power would read the same levels if you were on a power meter. The chance isn’t zero, but it’s really low.
I’ll gladly eat my hat if you get a PM and continue to have similar numbers

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