Spin slower! 😡

Running a single speed on a dummy trainer, I can’t afford any more than my Wahoo sensors and my setup has kept me going strong for years of Canadian winters.
But the training programs and a lot of workouts rely on aerobic and anaerobic cadence workouts, so quite often my cadence won’t meet the workouts requirements and I’ll fail the workout. I want to keep my cadence monitor active but not have to comply with the workout outside of wattage. I’m guessing the only potential solutions right now would be to disable the cadence sensor and ride blind or switch to a different program and unsubscribe from Zwift?

Hi Bryce welcome to the forums.

Workout stars are not dependent on the your cadence only on your power. If you keep to the power value you should get the star for the block.


Really? So when I’m told too slow or too fast what is really wanted by the program is more or less power?

Hi Richard,
I think you have misunderstood what Gerrie has said.
If you are told too fast or too slow, that is concerning the recommended cadence for that block. The user can ignore that recommended cadence if he or she wishes as achieving the workout star is only concerned with the power attained not the cadence.
You may be missing the point of a high or low cadence block fitness wise though.
“Ride On”

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Thanks, Troy, now I get it. Bit like when I race - I’m a bit slow :slight_smile:

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Thanks, I kinda had a hunch after a few blocks still gave me a star. I wish I could finish the workout but either my sensors or the game drop signal at 150rpm (Wahoo Cadence) so some of the sprints with higher wattage bursts of 30sec-1min show as 0watts and therefore incomplete. Despite what the now soaked bar wrap suggests haha.
Ran a test on my Cadence and hub sensors and they held a reading up to 200rpm. Not something you see everyday but on a fixie that’s life. Unfortunately it looks like Zwift itself drops my signal at 150rpm+ either as a limit to what the selected trainer can produce or a Developer reason. While it does indeed inhibit proper anaerobic exercise that I replace with other workouts throughout the winter it also prevents me from maintaining a proper workout using Zwift. I’ve checked into a lot of other solutions and the bulk have been the usual “buy a new trainer” or “get a bike with gears” both things an apprentice with a pension for brakeless fondos simply cannot do. I do hope there is a solution for the issue of losing signal at exactly 150rpm+ otherwise this wannabe hipster will have to keep the gain train rolling this winter on Sufferfest.


Hi Bryce,
I’m not sure, but if you were to put your cadence sensor on your rear wheel, would that reduce the rpm enough to overcome your problem?
or am I missing something? or creating another problem?

The cadence sensor mounts directly to the crank or foot of the user while the speed sensor mounts to the rear hub. I can try mounting the cadence sensor to one of my shoes though using the Wahoo maintenance app it shows a consistent reading at high rpms. That’s kinda why I’m lead to assume Zwift has an upper limit to how fast you can pedal in the game, my assumption would be to avoid cheaters in races.

Hi Bryce,

you could be right.
My idea would obviously not give you a true rpm, but might lower your rpm enough to overcome the problem without spending any money.
Thats if I understand your problem correctly.
Sorry if I’m off track.

Hey not a worry man, spitballing ideas is how solutions are made right? I don’t think that’ll solve the issue especially since the wheel spins much faster which would put my on-screen power through the roof :joy: But I definitely see the angle you’re coming from.

Thanks for the reply Bryce.
I hope you find a solution asap.

Waited until the holidays were over and I have gotten no help from the Zwift team. Have come to the conclusion this program isn’t suited for riders of my prefered equipment and especially my meager budget.

I have uninstalled all Zwift programs, cancelled my subscription and have since switched to Sufferfest like I always should have. I’m disappointed in the time I’ve spend and the money dropped in trying to use the app only to realize I cannot use a program that doesn’t yield an effective workout. The takeaway for those who wish to train, and pay electricity bills, is to avoid costly measures and consider training with heart rate and utilize gym sessions whenever possible. GCN posts training videos on youtube for free and with even the cheapest heart rate sensor you can calculate a functioning hr to form effective blocks and keep your fitness up until spring with a little extra speed on top. My only wish is I could get back those months I could have been using to train for next season.


This is super important input. Thanks Gerrie! I was about to give up on the workouts as I can’t hold the required cadences. Wouldn’t ERG mode increase the resistance if I’m too far off the required RPM? I’m only off by 5-10 RPM; as my condition improves, I should eventually be able to meet the target cadence. (I use Wahoo Kickr).

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Hi Falcon!

With most of our workouts, the cadence can be ignored. I think we have some where cadence might be measured as part of the ‘pass’ requirement, but for most of them, we recommend you find a cadence you are comfortable. ERG mode will increase or decrease resistance as needed so that you can hit the target wattage at the current cadence.

I hope this helps!