Hello, i’m a new zwift user
Using magene cadence & speed sensor,
Magene heart rate sensor
Deuter indoor roller
Speed and wattage on zwift seems low around 1-5kph despite effort on cycling
Hello, i’m a new zwift user
Using magene cadence & speed sensor,
Magene heart rate sensor
Deuter indoor roller
Speed and wattage on zwift seems low around 1-5kph despite effort on cycling
The speed you travel in Zwift is based purely on the power (or estimated power) you are generating. It doesn’t actually matter what your speed/cadence sensor says. The algorithms for power calculations from dumb trainers and rollers are very broad because there are so many factors at play.
Basically; a power meter makes for the best experience
So Rusty - how can we solve something like this? there is no Power sensor for non-smart trainer…
You need a power meter for your bike: pedal, crank or wheel.
There isn’t really a fix, it’s the inherent problem with estimated power
When you say your speed is slow, what does the watts indicator show and, does the elevation indicator show that you are going up hill or down hill?
If you do a U turn, does your speed increase?
I need to check and document but I can see my Watts sometimes above 50 in a 1m elevation and my speed is less than 10km but I am paddling like crazy…
I just give up at some point cause it is discouraging…
When I cycle outside with the same sensors and my cycling computer, it picks up speed very well.
I just don’t get it.
The 50 watts seems unrealistically low.
I looked on the Zwift start up site and I didn’t see the Deuter Rollers as being supported.
That maybe your problem.
If a trainer or rollers are unsupported, the Zwift program does not know how much energy you are producing to overcome the resistance of the rollers or trainer.
You can’t "guess " and be anywhere near accurate.
When you go to the pairing screen, do you see your exact manufacturer/model of roller?
If not, there may be an “unsupported” option that basically just prevents you from going too fast.
If you have a trainer and not rollers, same thing.
Make sure you have selected the correct trainer.
If that is done, you can check to make sure you do not have the roller pressed to hard against your wheel (trainer only).
I just realized this is a Zombie thread and I replied to the OP.
Shay, you need to tell us about your set up.
Trainer, sensors etc, wheel on/off, ant+/blue tooth and what device are you running the game on.
I have my own thread:
[Issues with Magene speed and cadence sensors - Bugs and Support - Zwift Forums]
But no one responded to it so I tried here.
My Trainer is not one of the supported ones, it is a generic trainer that doesn’t connect to the app directly. I am using the same Magene speed and cadence sensors that Zwift recognizes in the pairing screen. But still, speed doesn’t fit to my effort in reality. Sometimes it suddenly jumps to the right speed and then goes back down… I tried using ANT and Bluetooth on my laptop (strong one) and my tablet.
Not sure why this is happening.
The first big issue is Unsupported trainer.
It’s just not going to be accurate,either too high or too low.
Use of an unsupported trainer is possible but it’s mostly just to show people what is available.
You might try:
Make sure the roller is not pressed to far into the wheel.
Just enough to avoid feeling the tire slip when you stand up and pedal.
Make sure your height and weight is set correctly.
You can try selecting another trainer set up in the pairing screen.
This will also be inaccurate but it might make you faster rather than slower.
This is ok for free rides and training but you should never race doing this because it is cheating.
There just isn’t a lot you can do with an unsupported trainer unless you get a power device such as power pedals.
With a power device, you’re ok to race or do what ever.
You need to know the power output off your roller.
After this you can choise the near approx Zpower, i have all curve if you know.
Ideally a friend who can lend you powermeter.
I have Elite Arion Mag roller, Elite give power curve but so overestimated at low and medium power according my feeling IRL, finnaly i use Tacx Blue motion zpower wich recuced power output until 430W
I really want to be able to do what my avatar does in Zwift and have just power, i’m happy with the result.
Take car to climb in game, for go 15 km/h with 10% for sur you must give hard effort like 40/45 km/h on flat and maybe more on your roller