I have a trail account thus far, but the experience hasnt been rhat great. Mostly because getting help here is not very intuative… I spend more time trying to resolve problems or trying to get answers.
For instance in the zwift app hitting the M key no longer allows me to type. Have no idea how to fix the issue, and the automated help module takes you in a circle to nowhere.
How do i get better help here and less issues with running Zwift?
We are all here to help.
Not sure why you’re having issues with messaging. I do this every day and it’s working fine. I did it in the pens and whilst the activity is ongoing. Are other buttons working?
Give us more details on this or any other issues and collectively we’ll help.
Support is available via our support site at http://support.zwift.com which also allows you to raise queries.
I’ve just fired up Zwift here and the M key is definitely still working to send people nearby a message.
What I personally find easier is using the Zwift Companion App on a mobile device to send messages.
Make sure that Zwift is in focus when you are pressing M…it worked for me yesterday.
Yes, try clicking on the Zwift window on an area that isn’t the tables and numbers on the borders. Then press M.
That seemed to be the answer. I assumed the window was indeed selected, when in fact it wasnt.
Hans, I did just that and it did solve that issue… Now I just need to figure out this cycling computer/sensors not seen mess before I can ride the dang bike on Zwift. I think I’m going to give the store a call, and ask for advice…
Well some of my issues lie in being new to biking, bike sensors, Zwift, and setting up an IGS630 to work with Zwift while using an Alcour Fluid (which by the way I didnt even see listed in Zwift).
As a result I am having things that pile up into a bigger issue of things to resolve, while trying to set up a station for Zwifting.
- I got help with the messaging, since for some reason you have to click the window border for the Zwift window to consider that it’s been selected. I don’t know why but a couple people suggested that and it works.
2.I am having a horrible time keeping my sensors and computer talking to Zwift. They work fine talking to each other, but Zwift has me second guessing all sorts of stuff. Like… Do the sensors need new batteries being roughly only 2 months old? Why do I have to select UNLISTED as a trainer type? Why does Zwift not see my sensor and keep telling me to pair sensors with my phone? I’m getting swamped in the process it seems. Then I have ridden a couple of times, and people blow past me like I’m standing still, and I know some of that is based on the fact that they are on smart trainers and Zwift is picking the ride criteria for them.
Then I have to take my bike in to get the drive train adjusted, so a trip to the bike shop…lol!!!
Then I got a 32" monitor for Zwift, and out of the box it had an issue. (Finally Resolved Yesterday)
Basically, I’m getting a ZWIFT BEATDOWN, If I can play that term!
The sensors should never be paired to your computer’s Bluetooth service, if that’s what you are doing. That will interfere with pairing the sensors to Zwift.
Your trainer’s characteristics are unknown to Zwift. No Alcour trainers are listed as compatible.
I already have a trainer a trainer with a bike attached, but mine is not listed, and i was wondering why its not.
The “Unlisted” trainer will use a generic power curve to estimate your power output (watts) based on the speed of your rear wheel. I’ve not heard of the Alcour brand myself, and apparently either has Zwift. Without accurate power readings from either a smart trainer or a power meter, you might find that the estimated power Zwift is showing is wildly inaccurate… hence people blowing past you.
Sorry I miskeyed!!. It’s an Alpcour instead of Alcour. Looks like the one below. It is pretty much inline with all the other magnetic trainers. But I guess I would agree with your summation of why others go faster if the fluid trainer can’t produce data. I was looking for a quick way to ride and not have to tear apart a bike each time.
Learn By Doing or Trial By Fire!!
I think this is just not a popular trainer from one of the well-known brands. Those tend to be the ones that Zwift analyzes for compatibility.
If you like the idea of a wheel-on trainer, I’d suggest something like a Kickr Snap or Tacx Flow Smart. Those are smart trainers so you would not need the speed sensor, though you’d probably still want a cadence sensor. Direct drive smart trainers are much better for use with cycling apps like Zwift, but if that’s not appealing to you then a wheel-on smart trainer is a better choice than an unknown “classic” trainer. Another option would be to put a power meter on the bike. The least expensive way to do that is a left side crank arm power meter. They often show up used on eBay for $200 or so. That would also give you power data from outdoor rides. Exactly which one to choose depends on your make/model and length of crank arm.