I have had a kickr bike since early January. I have experienced the following issues, which anyone considering buying a Wahoo Kickr bike should be made aware of.
- Gears sticking - shifters unresponsive… sometimes rectified by switching the bike off at the mains and switching back on again. This ruins races. This doesn’t affect you if you use the bike in ERG mode on workouts - unless it switches to a free ride option in between.
"Please remove the shifter cables from the head control unit (HCU) and clean the male leads with rubbing alcohol (if available) or a clean cloth. Once the leads are dry, replace them in the HCU and test to see if you shifting has improved.
The most common issue to cause shifting errors are as follows:
- The male lead of the shifter cable had become bent due to bumping the leads or pulling up on the handle bars.
- Sweat has dripped down to the leads and caused corrosion
- Possible damage to the female shifter ports on the bottom side of the HCU where the shifters plug in.
If you are continuing to experience shifting difficulty, please respond with a photo of the male leads to the shifter cables and the underside of the HCU. Our hardware team will review, then provide diagnosis and feedback on our next steps towards resolution."
I did what they suggested and after a shifter freeze last night. I sent photos off and am awaiting the result… there is no evidence of the common issues.
- Almost mashed the head of one of the four hex bolts whilst securing the support legs. Lesson… if you’re tightening a bolt and it just feels too hard - don’t keep going. I could have mashed the head and not been able to get it back out
Dispatched replacement immediately. received an empty jiffy bag with a hole in it. Then dispatched another replacement bolt x2 taped to cardboard.
- There is significant ‘play’ in the bike unit… a noticeable unnerving movement (forward and backwards) on the climb actuator - apparently this is “normal”. I thought the legs weren’t secure when I first noticed it. When you throw your weight forward or backwards it feels like it’s rocking.
“Regarding the fore / aft play that you’re experiencing: for the Bike to be able to simulate grade changes while you’re riding, there is a linear actuator built into the unit. Due to the functionality of the linear actuator, you may feel a slight bit of forward and backward play in the Bike. This is normal and indeed necessary for the Bike to respond to grade change commands from the Wahoo app or any third party app.”
So I guess it’s a just an annoying feature and normal
- Significant bogging down when shifting between 3rd and 4th gear on the small ring - requires much greater effort or faster cadence 30 rpm when you change down - means you can’t get comfortable on a climb (it feels like there is a gear missing in the middle).
I haven’t raised this issue with Wahoo but reading posts here I might investigate switching gearing setups
Oddly i used to be able to push 870 watts for 15 secs… now I am down 100 watts on top sprint power in races. I did used to have a first gen Tacx flux direct drive so it could have been over reading. However, since I’ve had the bike I did a ramp test and I got a increase in FTP. So I don’t think it’s me.
I had issues with the head tube not securing the handlebars - When they say it should leave an imprint in your palms - they should have said ‘be prepared to break your wrist’ trying to apply enough pressure to engage the head tube… anyway, I managed to sort it. All this means is that it’s not as adjustable as it was made out to be. I wouldn’t want my 15 year-old messing around with it and my 12 year old wouldn’t be able to adjust it. So when anyone else wants to use it - you’ll have to do it for them.
Noticing some of the comments regarding grease… In any headtube or seat tube scenario grease is your friend… you should never have two metal surfaces in contact without it. You get more wear and the potential for creaking.
The noise is passable and acceptable. The whine varies in tone depending upon the speed and effort you are putting in.
The gear shift display will be hidden under the sweat towel you’ll have draped over the bars.
After you’ve stopped peddling the power stays on for about 3 seconds - so you can’t get into super tuck quickly. It takes a while for it to hit zero. This is an issue if you race on line. This lag can be annoying. I will trawl through websites and youtube videos to see if there are any ways to prevent this.
I have had no power issues with the PSU. The kickr unit works fine. But I do switch the bike off between uses.
It sounds like a lot of people have been having similar issues, but the shifter one is the killer issue for me. I cannot use the bike for what I wanted to use it for (Zwift racing)… it’s just too unreliable.