I Keep getting flagged. I was doing an FTP test and popped. I have done all of supports suggestions. Everything is set up properly and up to date. I don’t know what to do
Why are you being flagged. where are you flagged. Can you give us a rundown of your setup?
My first race I went full gas out the gate on fresh legs and got popped(cone of shame) , messaged support said if it heppend again they would have to dig deeper. 2nd race ( Cat A)I raced a little smarter stayed within reasonable watts( almost scared to push it) stayed with the breakaway and managed to win the sprint with no flag. 3rd race. Was going hard with everyone got popped . 4th race was an ftp test and flagged. My set up is a fluid 2 with garmin ant+ sensors
That’s the problem. Garmin sensors are set way too high. I had one that was 35 watts too high at best.You can try to slow down by either adding some weight or shrinking your tire size to get your speed more realistic. I was shocked the first ride i did with a real power meter, made me want to cry.
Whats is your current ftp and weight? Is your w/kg over 5?
It’s the senors, ok. Cadence and HR match my 520 tho. I don’t have a good estimate of FTP. I’m fit and super lean. I thought (hoped) it could be my weight or lack thereof that was giving me high numbers
I started on a fluid 2, switched to a kickr core and saw a 65 watt FTP “loss”. How fast are you going in game? It should somewhat match outdoors.
Did you select the correct trainer in zwift. Make sure your trainer is clamped tight to the wheel, no slipping.
If you have to hold back on the start of a A race then there is something wrong.
Ouch! I have my garmin 520 running , and my heart rate and cadence are the same. It’s the speed I can turn the back wheel that’s different. I’m a strava hunter, never raced but seek those 1-5 mins full gas efforts and will bike 50km to get there
Correct trainer. No slippage. Never off the start. On a breakaway attempt, not wanting to get the w/kg into teens
Support literally told me maybe I’m too good for my set up I’ll have to bike the bullet l, sucks this time of year cuz I just spent all this money getting on, now I gotta spend more to actually get on.
Can you link your strava profile here.
Those trainers are not made for racing. Do you have a powermeter?
Zwift doesn’t use cadence or HR (afaik) to calculate power, which then gets translated into speed via your height and weight. So just because HR and cadence match, doesn’t mean the power is good.
Also, go look at DCRainmakers page, there are awesome deals going on right now. You can get the new hammer h3 for quite a lot off MSRP if you want a direct drive trainer, or 20% off wheel on smart trainers. It sucks having to buy stuff, but at least this is a decent time to do so.
I used a Fluid 2 for about 4 months and the resistance it provided wasn’t constant with temperature changes. When it was cold (especially in winter) my power numbers would be massively inflated. As the thing heated up, it would come into a brief window of being ballpark accurate and then it would switch to being more difficult. I’d end up putting out way more watts than Zwift would be registering. I would not recommend it for Zwift racing unless you are using a separate power meter instead of zPower.