Does the newest kicker core have HR pass through?
It’s seems like maybe it doesn’t. I really don’t wanna mess with the companion app and play controllers take both of the stupid 2 BT limit on Apple TV (why can’t the play controllers be connected together via the usb-c ports to share a single connection…).
Can you enable preview firmware and use the code “04_12_09”?
I’m assuming you can downgrade with a specific code and see if that fixes your resistance problem. I’m going to stay on 4.12.9 for now until I have an issue or see that things have stabilized. So far so good.
No luck, it accepted the firmware code 04_12_09 but didn’t actually change the firmware version
No Wahoo trainers do. The Core is a 2018 trainer that was blessed with new firmware.
My main concern was the power. And today I had values that was higher from JB for ca. 5-10 watts, and lower 10 watts when the cadence is under 70 rpm. Those are my live observations. But it turns out the power curve is almost the same (4.9 - 133w JB vs. 129 P2M; 4.13 - 128W JB vs. 126W).
I’m not using Wifi (I don’t even how and why to use it in MyWhoosh).
Maybe a silly question, but how can I see if the 10hz “race mode” is working properly?
My setup:
JB Victory, latest firmware version, connected on bluetooth or wifi (no issues here)
iPad Pro 2017 (10.5") Latest supported iOS and latest Zwift version (1.81.0)
MacBook Pro M1 Pro Latest supported MacOS and latest Zwift version (1.1.13)
When I see race mode demonstrated on YouTube video’s it seems that both with the 3-seconds interval view and the instant view, the actual number is updated 10 times a second. YouTube dot com/watch?v=s6R7KmM2cDU
In my situation, both on bluetooth and wifi connection, and on both devices, the number is only updated once a second. However, when I click “instant” it does seem to update 10 times a second on the screen. Is there a way to confirm that race mode is actual working and updating properly? Thanks
Doesn’t connecting through WiFi put you in race mode automatically?
I mean the 3-second average might be updated 10 times a second but it’s not going to change as quickly so you wouldn’t see it. Although it wouldn’t surprise me if Zwift only updated it once a second.
If you are connected with WiFi and seeing instantaneous power update so quickly it’s almost useless, you are in race mode.
Also, if you enable the power graph at the bottom of the screen, you’ll notice it’s much more jagged than before.
To my knowledge there’s no way to turn race mode off at this time.
If this is your first direct drive trainer, I think it’s normal that you feel vibrations on the trainer, especially if you are using it on a hard surface. All of the direct drive trainers will have vibrations compared to road because there is no tire to soak up the vibrations that will naturally occur when things roll at high rpms. Even more so if the tolerances are a bit lazy, which in the case of JB victory seems to be the case. No trainer will ever feel butter smooth like riding on fresh tarmac with 32mm tires.
Thanks for your reply. The power graph tip made it clear to me, it indeed looks way more “jagged” indeed.
Yeah, I tend to agree. It feels more than likely just the drivetrain / chain. If that does turn out to be the case, It’d probably be worth JB throwing up a support article explaining whats normal and what’s not.
I am also struggling with vibrations and have now sent the Victory in - I hope they can do something about it.
I always use my old Tacx Flux S as a “benchmark” - nothing vibrates there with the same bike / same cassette 
And to be honest, I expect a trainer that is a few generations newer not to cause any vibrations on the pedals.
My power numbers had been really close with 4.12.0 firmware but todays ride was back to almost 20w difference. The big change was moving to 4.12.9 a few days ago.
It was big enough loss today that I could tell immediately. Not sure if it’s 4.12.9 or just random.
I’m now on 04.13. I did Snowman today and power numbers matched up well with my Assioma Duo pedals. The cadence issue also was resolved. I used Bluetooth. I’ll experiment with WiFi this week.
David
Hi all, looking for opinions. I’ve already contacted Jet Black and waiting to hear back. When I start to push above 350 watts I get a steady clicking sound. It’s not the bike. I swapped out the Zwift Cog and put on a cassette to rule that out. Still makes the same sound.
I filmed it from behind. Two things I can see….the pulley has a bit of a wobble, and there seems to be some movement in my quick release/axle. The click seems to correspond with every time the right side moves downwards.
Two questions for the hive:
Unfortunately I can’t post my video.
Thanks
If you haven’t already, contact JB…The update tanked my trainer and after a few e-mails back-and-forth, they’re shipping me a new unit.
Luckily, I’ve had a Kickr Core sitting in storage for a few years…pulled it out, updated the firmware…slapped on the Zwift Cog…and I’m able to keep training…
Dang, that Core is noisy…
For the record, I’ve been real happy with the Victory…seems more consistent/smoother than the V5 I was riding for years…
Change the quick release. The one that comes with the trainer is absolute trash. I had creaking/ticking when I stood up for hard efforts. Replaced the QR with an internal cam QR and it’s gone.
I updated the Android app and that fixed the issue of not being able to update the firmware on Android 14. I was able to update the firmware to 4.13, but I had to turn the firmware preview option off first, as I was on beta firmware it wouldn’t show the new 4.13 update.
I’ve done a few races on the new 4.13 using wifi and not had any drop-outs or cadence issues. I’ve also been dual recording to check the power data and it is looking pretty good!
Thanks…already swapped it with the one from my bike but I’ll track down and internal cam version and give that a try.
Lubricating the QR mechanism can also allow you to get it tighter if that’s necessary
