Interesting. No issues with my ride yesterday. (60km with most of the Cat-D bots in Watopia)
For the record: I updated the app, restarted my AppleTV (2022 model) then went into the app. I’d suggest to anyone having issues to always force close the app after each ride, and restart the ATV after an app update.
The main visible change here is that previously, as you’d ride these routes, you’d see your elevation progress increase only in 2-meter / ~6-feet chunks; with this change, your elevation progress will increase smoothly in realtime.
KICKR bike, Windows 11, v 1.48.0 - The U-turn right side minus (not sure about right side plus) does not seem to be working at all. Perhaps something required to enable this? (I tried both with and without steering enabled.)
I’m glad it’s not just me with the play controllers connectivity. Mine won’t stay connected direct through bluetooth despite working fine when paired through the companion app, and despite working fine when I first got them (Aug update broke them I think, although I was on holiday so I can’t tell exactly when it happened). I’ll see if this makes a difference when I join tonight.
I was (10 minutes ago) on Makuri 40 (free training) big bug on the course… in fact I was always out of step with what was displayed. When I was on the flat 0% I was on a resistance at 5% which corresponded to the bump that I was soon going to climb… when I was on the bump I was already at -2% that’s to say the descent… imagine on a race
I can get my Zwift Play to connect via the companion app now, but the game client always seems to drop my wirelessly network-discovered Kickr V6 power source / controllable / cadence connections WHEN I switch over to “pair with phone” as opposed to “bluetooth”… then it takes some switching back and forth between the two options to finally get the “pair with phone” menu to retain the network-connected power/controllable/cadence connections. I can’t figure out how I’m supposed to get my HRM to work in this scenario without a separate ANT+ dongle.
Can’t you guys just make Zwift Play controllers work over USB? Fun fact - our front tires don’t spin while we’re on trainers. I’d take a reliable cable solution any day over this BLE bologna.
My kickrbike still seems to be having dropouts after extended periods of riding (90+ minutes).
Started doing it after v1.44
Never had a single drop since I got the thing in February 2022… until the release of Zwift v1.44
Mentioned it along with another user on the 1.46 thread.
Nothing new to report other than the fact it’s not a one computer specific issue; as it appears to be happening on both of my computers (I suspected it was one, and let it slide thinking it was specific to this one computer; however that is not the case).
Meanwhile I can literally go onto Zwiftalizer, pull an old log I have on a computer I don’t use as much which has logs from back in June and they are flawless… they show like extremely few % RXFails but 0 searches for several hour long rides.
Then I can chuck in my recent logs in and it’s much more fails and even goes into searches.
Despite never actually changing anything or moving things around.
At one point back in August I even tried an extension on my ANT+ dongle, and put it literally within 1ft of the antenna on the kickrbike and the thing was STILL going into search mode for the signal.
I struggle to believe this is something on my end. Especially after it was so flawless for over an entire year.