DQ NOPE - Zwift Power DQ Acronyms

I personally don’t have a issue with your numbers.

I am just asking don’t you want to proof every one wrong and get the recognition you deserve.

With your power and weight you should be competitive IRL . I am the same weight with less power and I can be competitive (as long as the climbs are not to steep)

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Don’t trust Dual Recordings…you wouldn’t believe what you can do with it.
That’s why i suggested IRL Verification and you can only check if PM is accurate with VAM.

I believe lots of people are capable of doing this power numbers at 90kgs but i have a problem with trusting +50years old doing World Tour Pro numbers :rofl:

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No I don’t want to invest that much money to prove something to someone I do not know.

IRL I get my enjoinment of being in the dailytop of the popular Strava segments. But again my numbers aren’t that impressive compared to a gifted amateur

FYI, you can set your Strava account so that your ride data is public and then set a “privacy zone” around the proximity of your house. In doing this, anyone who views your rides can’t tell exactly where they start and where they end. Problem solved :wink:

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I wouldn’t classify them as “crazy tricks”, it is just verification and very reasonable if you are racing in A cat IMHO.

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I’m really questioning the reasonable part.

It is a lot of money just to prove something.

I get it for the top Zwift racing teams like wahoo le col (forgot the name of the league) because there are high stakes.

But I’ve seen dual recording demands for top 10 in a “no-name” weekly B-race

I know it is easy to ask, when you’re at the other side. But please Imagine I ask you to spend 500~1000 euro’s just to prove your name is Mike.

Look at your bank account and consider if you’re willing to spend that much to buy something with the only goal to prove something. It has no other benefit. If I look to my bank-account I’m not so fond on buying power pedals to prove something for a friendly race. (A race where nothing is on stake)

That said I’ve a high value of good sportsmanship, you should be do what is in your power for fair play.

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I agree with Ronald in a lot of ways here. I bought a wheel-on trainer last year to get back into cycling after 16y away, started racing ZRL at the beginning of this season and found that I can (seemingly) go over the 1300W limit of the trainer when I sprint. I have a concussion history and am not rushing back to IRL racing, and have no results since 2005 IRL so nothing IRL to back it up.

With all the costs of getting back into cycling I did not plan to spend $500+ on a power meter or $1000-$2000 on a more accurate direct drive trainer just to be able to race with accurate power measurement. I’ve been racing ZRL with permitted equipment, following all calibration rules down to the letter, to the point of eating trainer tires every 2 months just to try to keep the power as low as possible.

Upon reaching out to WTRL after another DQ on steep sprint climbs, they basically told me either get a new trainer, or keep your sprint under 1000W or we will DQ you.

Now I’ve dropped $$$ on a Kickr V5 and waiting for that to arrive just so I can race without the constant threat of DQ.

There is a huge grey area of equipment calibration, equipment choice, etc and Zwift doesn’t seem to have the right protections in game to limit or lower the output instead of just accepting whatever the power meter sends.

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No one is asking you to spend any money. Some suggestions was to do a few all out efforts outdoors and link the results.

You spend a lot of time defending your position, where it will be so much easier to just do some test and prove anyone questioning your results wrong.

I am not concerned about your power numbers. I am just trying to help you to not defend your number all the time.

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So this is all what is needed to end every discussion?

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usually only KISS and DBR want this for As, and if you’re not in the time slots where the prem league guys are racing they probably won’t be too strict about it either. though they do fairly warn you in the rules if it’s a requirement

as far as DR requirements in B go, only FUSION have ever required them i think, and only if you exceed 5.4 for 5 or 8.2 (?) for 1 minute in the race. which is a pretty high ceiling

How do you measure your power outdoors.
You stated your power on Zwift is consistent with your numbers out doors.

For me, I’m new to outdoor power, my IRL power is higher than my Zwift power.
It is a source of disappointment because I spent the money on pedals and now the numbers don’t match.
It maybe a heat/wind/cooling issue.

The speeds in Zwift are artificially elevated by about 3-4 mph.

Yes this is what people want to see.

I could very easily spoof outdoor efforts to match indoor cheating. Hell, I could do it more easily than the indoor cheating, with and without a power meter. If fact, I don’t even have to ride outside. My favorite example of this was someone trolling Durianrider and stealing all his KOMs by using his own fit files.

The only real way to validate performance is in person. Either a Zwift Live event, or an actual race. All else is based solely on integrity. I believe most users want to be honest, and most of us know who the cheaters are.

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I have a double sided crank powermeter on my IRL bike
And a stagesbike SB20 for Zwift

Normally I’m able to go a bit deeper on Zwift, because of the fear of crashing on the road.
(I ride faster on the flat then in a decent)

There maybe a little bit of descrepency but I think it appears you may have provided the requested verification.
I’m not well versed in all the ins and outs but I say Ride On.

I have this bridge I want to sell you… :rofl:

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I missed the Zpower forums, and I’m glad we’ve brought the magic back here.

This is not a comment directed at Ronald who I don’t know power-wise or otherwise… science and physiology doesn’t work in such a way that as you add weight you add power in perfect alignment to coggan performance expectations. 4.0 at 150kg is very hard to achieve, 4.0 at 50kg is very easy to achieve. B cat defies this logic.

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The power numbers maybe incorrect but what can you do?
People wanted IRL data and some data has been submitted.
We have 2 sets for review.
one is indoor, one is outdoor and 2 different measuring devices.
It appears consistent but perhaps accuracy is questioned due to the physiological work proposed.
What more would you do?

At least if it is consistent, he knows what cat to race in.

Generally speaking - people are aware those Strava average power estimates will be produced whether someone’s really riding, on an e-bike, motorcycle, car, whatever - right?

What someone who’s really determined to inflate their power to pro levels on Zwift can’t do is fake documented race results and race category. Like as a real example it’s pretty easy to find out a 60+ year old that wins almost every A/A+ community race he enters with World Tour power in Zwift, dual records and all that and claims to be an IRL USAC Cat 2 as part of his performance justification, is actually an IRL Masters Cat 2 and does senior Cat 4/5 IRL as a pack finisher. With all this implies for his power/performance in Zwift.

Note: Zwift won’t do anything about him and others like him which is the biggest problem if you want non- cheating community racing. Or you can take Zwift community racing results as irrelevant to using races to get a decent training ride in when you can’t get outside.

It’s sad. Pretty similar to Strava KOMs being fun before they got over run by e-bikes faking being a human result.

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I agree 300W is nothing special, I can do that and more, plenty of reasons to think my trainer is ok (including the fact of using two different ones). I’m a fairly fit veteran, nothing more.

But FTP over 400W is probably bullshit regardless of size. Humans just don’t do that unless they are pretty exceptional. In which case they already know all about it and can show it through IRL performances.

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