I received the classic about 3 weeks before the new hub one was released as a birthday present and wish i had known about the new one so wondered if anyone has the new one and if any good/better than classic as i may buy the upgrade u can get for the classic?
Contact Zwift support and ask if they will refund the cost of the kit to upgrade it. A few people have reported that they have done that. If they do that then you can try it both ways and decide what you like. If you’re mostly just interested in virtual shifting then you could also buy the Play controllers and use it with your current setup.
I may just buy the cog kit you can buy for 59.99
I have the Classic and I have bought the cog Kit, but I can’t remove the core, do you know if it is normal, no one helps me
Does this help?
Sorry video above may not cover what you are trying. Have you removed your cassette and now unable to remove your freehub?
This Zwift help on removing/changing freehub might be more helpful but suggests it should be a simple pull off.
I follow the steps but the Freehub Body seems stuck and I can’t remove it
Some questions which might help them further:
What freehub/cassette system were you running?
How long was it on there?
Did it come pre-installed or did you fit?
How much previous experience do you have fitting/changing freehub/cassettes?
Can you take a picture of the current position you are now in and post it to this forum using the image facility at the top of your posting view?
I’m going to take photos of the Freehub Body.
The Zwift Clàssic purchased in March with a pre-installed 8 cassette
I haven’t worked on one of these, but we have heard at least one report that significant force was required to pull it off. To get more purchase on the freehub you could thread the lockring back into it so you have something better to pull on.
Hi Paul, so does it come off with enough force? Someone on Beginners FB group is having the same problem.
So it’s not like the Zwift video shows that it looks easy
Probably easy on a trainer that’s never been ridden
I’d start by getting some penetrating oil in there–right where the inner shaft and the freehub bearings meet. Something is seized up, the bearing maybe just ever so slightly warped over time. Triflow or a similar product. Liberal Triflow application, and let it sit for a while. An hour? A day? You can try lightly tapping the axle to help the oil penetrate. Don’t bash it with a hammer, but maybe get a stack of washers or a small piece of wood, dowel etc, that will sit on the end of the shaft but inside the freehub body, something between the shaft and the hammer, and do some gentle tapping to help. Then let it sit.
If it was a wheel, I’d then be tapping (harder) the axle out, but I wouldn’t try that on the trainer.
Instead, you can try putting the cassette back on–not the nut that holds the freehub on. Just reinstall the cassette with the lockring. Then you can try pulling on the whole cassette, might give you enough leverage.
Thanks, I’m going to try this solution
I also read on Facebook that the Cog is useless, the Click is enough to activate the Virtual shifting
In what was is the cog useless? Alot of independent reviews have said its very good?
I don’t think it is useless but you don’t need it. You can leave your current set up in the same gear then use the click to achieve virtual shifting.
not useless but perhaps not needed.
Sort of what I was thinking. Use your 42(old school)/14 cog on a classic cassette how is that any different to a 42/one cog set up.
Use the click to change virtual gears to change through your 24 virtual gears.
But my question:
On a classic set up what happens to the resistance/gearing if you accidentally then change to a classic 15 tooth cog etc ?
Edit: I imagine the resistance changes? If resistance changes does Zwift Hub recalibrate the 24 gears if you then proceed to use click but on 15 tooth?
There are a few scenarios in which it’s very useful, such as using multiple bikes with different gearing on the same trainer (eg, an 8 speed bike and a 12 speed bike) or supporting bikes with a Campagnolo drivetrain. It’s not required to get virtual shifting, which is available by simply pairing the trainer with a Play controller or Click shifter.
I cant seem to find a way of buy just buying click without buying the cog and click kit
Yep it’s not available that way. You either buy the Click+Cog package or you buy the Play controllers.