Zwift customer service will send you to a web page with a "common problems’ chart. Don’t expect much more.
Here is some stuff to try.
- clear the cashe on the iOS and Android devices. As an alternative, uninstall and reinstall the apps.
-reboot everything, and try to achieve a power off state to do it. - make sure the phones don’t have the devices paired in the typical phone BT screen, the app does it. If the devices are paired using the native phone BT screen, disconnect and “forget” them.
-load a BT sniffer on the Anrdoid device and look at the relative “strength” of the other BT stuff nearby. Don’t use the sniffer while trying to ride for real, but fire up all your kit and look at what is close to (or stronger than) the BT for Zwift.
More desperate stuff:
- try to use 5Ghz instead of 2.4Ghz for Wifi. 2.4Ghz might cause interference. Is there a new Alexa or Google Home near your Zwift setup now? Make sure it is on 5Ghz. Are you using their BT features? If so, stop.
-open resource manager and task manager while you ride. Watch the performance tab in task manager and the network tab in resource manager. In my case when the WAN latency gets really slow BT blows up most of the tine. Don’t listen to anyone that says 50ms. When mine blows up it is over 2000ms. In my case the latency is outside of my home and ISP so there is no fix. That may not always be the case. - Also make sure your PC and its WiFi/network are working. The BT data goes from the sensors to the phone (companion app) to the PC (Win 10). If the local network fails, the data from BT fails. Put another way if your PC chokes badly, it might not be able to update the data over IP so your watts and HR ect drops out.
- Windows is pushing another update recently. The last few updates have been more and more sketchy. Look up how you see when you got a Win 10 update and see if it corresponds with your new found problems.