Bike Grease or anti sieze for pedals

I hope you can help. I have just got my Assimo power pedals and the instructions say to use bike grease on the thread. I have looked around and see that anti sieze is also recommended for pedal threads so could anyone advise on whether grease or anti sieze is best for this?

It’s for an indoor spin bike so it will obviously never be going outside.


Either should be fine. It’s not a situation where anti-seize is really needed.

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I generally grease, or locktite, depending on the use, anything on a bike that has threads. Even down to water bottle bolts. If you’ll want to take it back apart again down the line, put some grease on it :slight_smile: (Except, as mentioned, when there’s locktite involved.)


Thanks. Definitely want the ability to take them off down the line so will go with the grease.

Some grease on both the tread of the crank arm and the pedal…

The ease of removing pedals is more related to how tightly they are put on. You DO NOT need to muscle up when putting the pedals on. Simply nip them up a little beyond the initial tightness.

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Typical torque spec on pedals is 40nm. That’s the same as a cassette lock ring, although that’s maybe not helpful because everyone under the sun waaaaaay overtorques cassette lock rings :laughing:

40nm is putting about 30lbs of effort into a foot long wrench, if that’s helpful.


Thanks Martyn and Tom. I am very new to anything cycling related so I must admit I had no idea what I was supposed to tighten to based on the instructions.
I guess I’ll just hand tighten and then just a little bit more.

i always grease my pedals and never overtighten then either a mistake many make.


If you don’t have a torque wrench to learn how the various torques feel (most people don’t, tbh), 40nm would be like taking a standard foot long pedal wrench to the pedal, and putting 3 to 4 gallons of water down on the end of it. So it’s not insubstantial, but it’s not like you need to be blowing blood vessels either :slight_smile:

If you’re using an allen wrench from the back side of the crank, likely that wrench won’t be a foot long, and you’d have to put in more force.

Park Tool (as always) has some good instructions. Importantly, take care not to cross-thread when you’re installing.

Love the analogy Tom.

I’m particularly amused by the fact that somebody who doesn’t know what 40nm is likely to know what 3/4 gallons of water pushing on a foot long pedal wrench feels like. :sweat_smile:

It’s why I have a precision torque wrench. :sweat_smile:

:smiley: Yeah, I don’t know if that’ll be helpful. But I figured most people kinda know how heavy a single gallon of water feels, so pushing down on a wrench kinda like 3x that…maybe get you in the ballpark?

I don’t have a larger range torque wrench right now, just a 2-15 sort. But I’m not doing much BB work in my own garage, and I more or less know what 40 feels like for pedals and lock rings and such. If I need to mess with my thread-together BB on my carbon gravel bike, I go to the shop :slight_smile:

The Assimos have come with a 8mm hex/allen key that is actually pretty long. Longer than I’m used to seeing. Okay, I’ll just try and judge it. Tighten securely but not crazy!

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This is the way :slight_smile:

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This is the way.

And another top tip… when removing the pedals put the chain on the BIG RING. That chain will protect your knuckles from the ‘teeth of doom’ when the inevitable unexpected release happens!!


pedals have reverse threads so won’t come undone while pedalling so as long as it feels pretty tight i wouldn’t worry too much about the actual force used.

as for removing. put the crank in the 3 o’clock position hand on the pedal, wrench attached to whichever bit of the pedal needs it (some use allen key in the back of the bolt, some have a bolt like fitting on the spindle) then push down on the pedal and lift up the wrench.

the old push down, lift up is very useful!

to fit pedals, put the spindle in the hole on the crank and slowly rotate the pedals backwards and it will tighten, then finish with a wrench. a good to way to not get confused with which one is reverse threaded!


Thanks Martyn, it’s a spin bike so doesn’t have an exposed chain.

Thanks Chris, that’s a good tip.

Yes! Good tip for non spin bikes.

Other way is use longer ended tools to loosen the pedals. I have a big torque wrench that does the job well. Keeps my hands well clear of danger! :wink:

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The Assimo’s came with a fairly long hex key and I didn’t have a problem getting the old ones off. It’s only been a couple of months since we installed them though so not too long for them to get wedged on.