Need help switching my pedals

Hello all,

I’m finally getting back into zwifting and I thought i’d switch my pedals so I can clip in (I currently have normal pedals on my bike). Unfortunately the bike shop that attached my pedals has made them impossible to get off, I just can’t do it. Anyone have any tips or tricks for attempting to do this myself?



remember that one side of your bike is reverse threaded!

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Make sure you are turning them the correct way to loosen them. You need brute strength, they can be very tight sometimes! Do you have a bike stand, it will be easier if you do to get good leverage.

Haha oh wow this video makes it look so easy! I’m not quite sure what happened to mine, I used to take mine on and off quite frequently. I will have another go!

Yes I have had moments of doubt of ‘am I even trying to loosen them the right way!’ I will attempt again with brute strength, I don’t have a bike stand but perhaps I can conjure up something to help stabilize the bike

It helps if they haven’t been tightened by a gorilla :slight_smile:

CAUTION: When you press hard on your wrench/bar, do not press toward the chainwheels. If it suddenly loosens, you might find out how sharp chainwheels are!! :biking_man:‍♂:+1:t3:


i did.! lots of blood and 7 stitches in my thumb.
change onto big ring and put something over it.

If you can’t get a stuck pedal to budge try a precisely placed whack with a dead blow hammer onto the wrench or tool. It’s a last resort but I’ve had to do it occasionally. Could also try to add leverage with a pipe or use you foot/leg. Also, try some penetrating oil (WD40/Triflow) sprayed around thread and left over night.
One of the most used tools in my box is a deadblow. Those gorillas at shops are doing more damage to threads over tightening than a whack with a deadblow does. Can’t say the last time I’ve seen some 25 yo bike shop employee actually use a torque wrench, they all believe they have calibrated arms. Ever seen one of them continue to tighten IF they use a torque wrench after it clicks? I have. (I have > 25 years working on bikes, started in shops before a stint as a team mechanic in the 90s, owned a shop, current maintain a “harem” of 12 bikes. And still I use a calibrated torque wrench/tool when tightening).

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:open_mouth: that does not sound fun

Thanks for the advice folks. I have kept on trying with more leverage and putting my whole body weight behind it but no luck. I’m quite annoyed with myself that I asked the shop to put in my pedals as i’ve never had this issue before. I don’t have a lot of tools so there isn’t much to do but wait until I can go back to the bike shop to see if they can loosen it.

These were only put in at the end of last season so have only seen one or two outdoor rides, the connections are still lubed up, absolutely no rust anywhere I just don’t have the strength apparently…

Pedal threads tighten in use so it’s not necessarily the shop’s fault…

Fun fact: the reverse thread for the left pedal was invented by the Wright brothers.


How to Remove Look Pedals without Brute Force or a Bike Stand

Step One: Turn bike upside down on a rug or suitable surface that won’t scratch brake hoods or saddle.

Step Two: Pad the chainwheel; See gory story above. ^^ :boom::sweat_drops:
Step Three: Pad the bottom bracket; you don’t want the end of the hex key to go down and punch a hole in it !! :thinking:

Step Four: Use your non-dominant hand to hold the hex key securely in the pedal socket.

Step Five: Using a rubber mallet, hit the end of the hex key gently.
Step Six: If the pedal is still tight, hit it a bit harder!
Step Seven: If the pedal is still tight, go to Step Six.
Step Eight: When the pedal loosens with a snapping noise, put the mallet down, reverse the wrench and remove pedal. To remove, the wrench should go backward relative to the forward direction of the wheels.
Step Nine: Clean crankarm threads and new pedal threads. Grease pedal threads lightly.
Step Ten: Start pedal with fingers (make sure it’s the proper pedal for the side!)
Step Eleven: Spin pedal in with long arm of wrench. (Wrench turns with forward rolling wheels).
Step Twelve: Reverse wrench and final tighten. 20 or 30 nM is fine; they will tighten further with riding anyway.
Step Thirteen: If the other side still needs to be changed, go to Step One.
Step Fourteen: Ride On !!

If you have Shimano pedals, use a wrench on the flats. No need for padding, but watch out for the chainrings! ^^^ Same turning directions still apply.

I just had mine out and regreased them. I do this three or four times per year.


Ok thanks for the help everyone, the pedals are off!!! I can’t believe it.

I padded everything with old towels so that I could use brute force without being nervous about slipping and taking a trip to the ER and after maybe an hour of trying and taking breaks and trying again they came off.

I am unreasonably happy about this, I guess that’s what self-isolation does to you, it’s the little successes that keep you going. I was so excited I did an FTP test straight away and I got an extra 13 points on my FTP so i’m super happy.

Thanks for all your help it is much appreciated.


Good to hear of your successful result Nico.
I’m sure most on here where itching to come round and do it for you, if they could.
“Ride On”

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