Hi…really enjoying my Zwift experience. Had a few hiccups along the way, but seem to be getting better.
I use a Saris Mag+(dumb trainer) but seriously thinking of switching to a smart trainer.
Just wanted some feed back on people who made the change…did your numbers, or performance suffer? just lately I’ve been able to make the break away group(cat b), although I get rinsed in the sprint finish.
I know the Dumb trainers are capped, but when i I go all out I still can’t hit the 400w capping. So not even sure a smart trainer would help me hitting higher watts - unless I missing something.
I went from a dumb trainer with a speed sensor to a direct drive smart trainer and only noticed a negligible difference in watts. Mostly I think it was because the wheel on trainers are very inconsistent and the direct drive trainers are very consistent. The biggest difference is in noise and consistent and accurate power readings.
you will likely drop from B to D depending on how janky your current trainer is, but don’t let that deter you… even in lower cats, group rides and race events are highly competitive (and there are more people entering them too = more chat / fun).
difference between a dumb and smart trainer is night and day, Zwift is so much better when you can actually feel the hills as you see them on the screen
400w is not very much at all when it comes to sprinting (■■■■ a top D rider can do double that no problem), if you keep at it you will be able to cap that out no problem with an out the saddle effort.
it’s not about hitting higher watts. it’s about having a device which is more accurate, allowing you to track you progress more accurately, which will make tailored workouts far more rewarding. plus you get to use ERG mode in workouts properly - with the trainer adjusting resistance for you - so you don’t have to faff around with changing gears etc.
Wow…that’s a big difference.
I have a Zwift recommended dumb trainer on the right setting. The problem I have now is I’m likely to be moved to CAT A I think with my recent races. if I take the plunge and get a smart trainer I’ll likely be lapped.
PS: I never train so not sure what ERG is…I just race most days. IF I having a bad day I just stop :)))
no idea how you are able to race with a 400w cap xD guess it doesn’t matter til the end but yea no chance in the sprint.
ERG mode is where the trainer automatically adjusts the resistance to match the desired power set by a workout programme, based on your current cadence. if you start pedalling slower, it will increase the resistance automatically etc. to hold you at a set wattage.
The start is the issue…normally catch up when the pace drops. But have to go eyeballs put at least 3 mins.
You just stay at 400w for most of the race.
I wish…350w early. Then once I catch up it drops. Normally average 299w around the 8 lap circuit in enjoy racing. Defo not buying a smart if I drop down or way back
Just no chance in the sprint. Its just nice being involved though.
Don’t you want a more accurate racing experience?
Fairly new to Zwift and to be honest I would only want to enhance my experience, rather than drop back. Maybe I should’ve started with a Smart trainer. Just don’t think I would enjoy it as much if I was to be lapped while racing Bs.
Its quite surprising there is such a difference between trainers.
You would probably move down to C, BUT at least you would be putting out accurate numbers.
You could be adversely affecting racing for others by using an unsupported trainer.
It is a supported trainer? Zwift recommended it. Saris mag+
It’s still just estimated power.
I’ll take that
I will see how it goes. If my achilles sorts it’s self out I’ll get back running.
Would be good to borrow one and see. I have a few cycling buddies. Maybe I could see of they’ve one i could loan.
Hey…I know you mention estimated power, surely can’t be that far out. And even if out it’s a massive disadvantage at the start and finish for pace…took a lap to get the the lead group today.
Is there anyone who has moved from dumb to smart? would be good to hear from a few.
There have been a lot and most have had drops in power.
It might or might not be, only way to tell is to get a smart trainer or power meter.
I went from dumb to smart and had a big increase in power, as Paul said, you never know until you can check with an accurate source.
Big increase? goes against what a few others have said.
What was the difference in numbers?
IIRC it was around a 20-25% increase in FTP
can I have your trainer…lol.
What model do you’ve?