No zwift hub for me as I am a martian with a single speed bike. Therefore I’m not Zwift worthy! Goodbye cruel world!
Describe your bike. There’s probably a way if you are really interested.
I have a 6KU urban track bike.
Zwift were kind enough as to quickly reply to my question as follow;
“Zwift Hub won’t be compatible with single-speed bikes and there won’t be a single-speed skewer included.
For more information about bike compatibility, please check out this [article]”
I understand Zwift for doing what they are doing as there are not many of us out there I guess.
Thank you Paul for your reply as well but as you see, nothing can be done for single speed (fixie) bikes with the Zwift hub.
You can probably use your bike with the Zwift Hub. I assume it has 120mm axle spacing, so this is what you would need to adapt it:
- Velobike dropout adapters to adapt the frame to 130mm axle spacing
- A single speed cassette conversion kit for a Shimano compatible freehub, with your choice of cog
- A quick release skewer for 130mm axle (not sure if the trainer includes this?)
- A longer chain to use on the trainer. Get a single speed chain with a removable master link.
- A chain rivet extractor tool to cut the chain to the right length
- A Shimano compatible cassette lockring tool and a chain whip to install the cog on the trainer
As you can see, there are some additional costs and time to get the bike on and off the trainer, but if you’re going to leave it on the trainer all winter, it could be worthwhile. You could also visit a bike shop instead of buying the tools.
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Much appeciated Paul.
But I bought a fixie for the exercise, simplicity and low maintenance.
I really don’t want to turn into a bike mechanic to use a trainer.
Roller trainers are also too noisy as I ride very early in the morning while my wife is sleeping, which made the Zwifthub so attractive to me. But changing gears on a bike is so darn noisy inside an appartment.So Zwifthub will have been just a dream for us with track bikes and fixies.
I will just buy something like the Bowflex C6 or Schwinn IC4 for my 6 months of winter and well as rainy days.
Thanks again and all the best to you.
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Spin bikes don’t work well with Zwift - the experience will not be remotely as good as a direct drive trainer and a bicycle. For the price of a Schwinn IC4 you could get a used multigear road bike and a Zwift Hub. You’d get a lot more enjoyment out of the monthly fee. You don’t have to shift gears when you need to be quiet.
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I know but Zwift is just not there for us and I can’t use a bike with gears as I train between 4:30 and 6:00 am next to our bedroom and gear grinding is sure to wake her up (what is the use of having a quiet smart trainer if I’m gonna wake up my family with changing gears constently?). I have no choice but to settle for a lesser experience with a spin bike and maybe Rouvy or some other app that will make it bearable.
It’s not for lack of trying on my part as I really wanted to Zwift on a Zwifthub, they just don’t want/need us.
Cheers
Cheers!
With a smart trainer, you don’t have to change gears: the trainer can change the resistance automatically without making a noise. I routinely do Zwift rides without shifting much or at all. You can just put the bike in some gear that lets you pedal at your desired cadence, and the trainer does the rest.
That said, a belt drive trainer (such as a smart bike or a spin bike) will be quieter than any chain drive bike (even a single speed). There’s not much difference between a single speed and a multigear bike if you don’t touch the shifters.
The problem with spin bikes and Zwift is the same problem on Rouvy or any other app: lack of controllable resistance. By all means use whichever app pleases you most, but they all depend on controllable resistance in two areas: (1) doing workouts in ERG mode where the trainer changes the resistance so you are forced to put out a certain level of power, and (2) simulating terrain so that hills are harder than flat roads. It doesn’t matter which app you choose because the problem is the trainer.
Two other things you might consider:
-
A wheel-on smart trainer with your fixie, such as a Wahoo Kickr Snap or Tacx Flow Smart.
-
A belt drive smart bike, if it fits in your budget. They are expensive compared to putting your bike on a trainer, or compared to a spin bike, but they are quiet like a spin bike.
Both offer controllable resistance, so you can get the best experience from whichever app you prefer.
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I bought a spin bike 2 months ago. Used Zwift firstly with Wahoo speed & cadence sensor (wasn’t good and I was capped at 400w - which I reached easily – clearly was wrong).
Then found HR2VP app which uses your heart rate to calculate watts. Found it worked pretty well on flatter routes. Problem I found was I did a mountain climb (my HR went high and that mountain was VERY tough - great). I then came down the mountain, so got a really good rest. When I got back to flat ground and pedalled I was moving very slow. Why? Cos my HR (on flat usually getting to 130bpm was now at 105bpm, so it assumed I wasn’t pedalling hard).
I was frustrated as I’d done 38km out of 70km, was really enjoying the challenge but then just felt deflated.
So why this post?
I’ve just ordered a Wahoo Kickr Core as I now I’d love Zwift long term.
I had the same advice as others - a trainer will ramp up the Zwift experience, and they were right. My problem was that £600 + bike was too costly to “find out if I wanted the cycle on Zwift long term”.
I was certainly recommend trying out the HR2VP app (esp if you have a spin bike + HR monitor) as its only about £2.50 per month. Jump on Zwift, do some flat rides, do a mountain. Find out if you want to commit to this hobby. HR2VP may be suitable enough. For me, I’ve found I want (and need) the full immersive experience.
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I feel for you as I have a Lynskey fixed gear bike. But I have other bikes as well so while I would often ride my fixie on my now retired CompuTrainer, the fixed gear will now be relegated to outside only.
Respect my brother from me, just not from Zwift. Sadly. I beleive that we don’t want to compete but just to have fun and motivation from Zwift. Cheers
@Sylvain_Beland
I have no idea if these are still around but this will be silent. Not quite response of modern DD trainers but this should be easy to mount. Note that you have to use compatible rims.
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Heck…still around…https://4iiii.com/usa/products/pdp/fliiiight-smart-trainer/default-title/
Some limitations, 7% slope simulation…and probably others, but in a fixie…should be plenty sufficient.
Holy cow Chris!
I think you found what I’ve been looking for all this time!
It is also being sold in Canada so that’s great.
A 7% grade is more than enough for me on a fixie.
I will be going through the website instruction to make sure my wheel is compatible.
Just perfect, thanks a lot Chris!
As soon as I know my wheel is compatible, I will close the subject.
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Thanks Chris but the Fliiight will not fit my bike either as dropouts are required to be between 150 and 170 mm and mine are only 120 mm.
The search continues for me.
Where did you see those measurements? Anyway it’s pictured in use with normal QR road bikes (130 mm dropout width) so those numbers must be measured end-to-end on the outside rather than between dropouts. If your hub uses locknuts, you’d probably want to change them to ones with cylindrical outer ends (as a bonus they are much wider too), at least Tacx makes those as a spare part.
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Hi Paul,
I have a extra bike frame at home. I am thinking of using the new Zwift Hub One (resistance COG) without a derailleur. Do you think it will work just the same as above?
Thanks
Richie
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What is the frame you plan to use? If it’s a road bike frame, the question is whether you can achieve appropriate chain tension. Sometimes you get lucky and chain length just works out, or you pick a different chainring and it works. Or if the frame has horizontal dropouts you can make it work. If the frame has vertical dropouts (as most modern frames do for the last several decades) then you may end up with a slack chain if you have no way to adjust tension. If the frame has a derailleur hanger then you could use a chain tensioner such as the Singleator.
Assuming this is not a 120mm track frame (which would use the adapters mentioned above) you will need to have at least 130mm dropout spacing to fit the trainer.
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Thanks so much Paul. The frame is a modern road bike frame - Canyon Endurace CFSL. It had a crack and had it repaired and dont want to use it on the road further.
Many thanks for answering this. The answers from the Zwift customer service was so vague. This is a lot of help. Now I am thinking of purchasing the Zwift Hub One.
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How about adjusting for the smoothest driveline on the ZH1? I thought one would still need a rear derailleur to do this to dial in the smoothest/quietest action with the cog?