Hello!
I have to say that I am very disappointed with Zwift’s customer support. From My professional skils, I am very familiar with trainer hardware and therefore I quickly discover the cause of the problem.
We’ve been writing to Zwift support for three weeks now and we’re still trying to get them to send us a video of the problem so they can assess where the problem is. I just want information from them on where I can send the trainer for repair…
Yesteraday I did start the repair by myself and quickly found that the brake axle was completely worn out at the bearing location (very unusual) and of course both two bearings were damaged.
To repair it I would need new axle (very specific, unique and urgently needed for repair) and:
bearings (they are standard and I can buy them at a local store)
It would make sense to also replace the pulley (which is a bit worn due to disassembly, but I could in principle sand it down) and
a new belt (it can probably be purchased at a local store).
Has anyone had similar problems and how did they get replacement parts?
I would be very grateful for any advice. Thanks!
Damjan
Zwift is getting extremely shady. I too am going back and forth with a mechanical problem with them and Im almost certain that they are using robots/AI. I ask specific questions needing specific answers and I get generic responses or they ignore it completely.
Not feeling like Ill be sticking around much longer.
I’m having the same issue. My trainer has been unusable for months due to power dropping out as soon as you go over a measly 200W. I’ve had pretty much the same experience with Zwift support. Have you been able to find a solution?
I just bought a used Hub One cheap, with the exact same defect. I made a replacement axle out of CrMo steel, and a new steel spacer to fit between the bearings. This aluminum spacer seems to be the root of the problem, as it compresses, becomes too short and can’t support the bearings any more. Steel will do much better.
If you’d like to do the repair on your device, here are lessons I learned along the way: to get the belt pulley off the axle you need a 17mm socket with a maximum outer diameter of 22,2mm. Then you can pull the pulley with a crank extractor, which must be the old style M23 variant for T.A. specialites.
To remove the axle from the flywheel I tried to pry the aluminum cap out of the flywheel, leaving some scratches. Might be better to remove the circlip on the inside and press the axle further into the flywheel, thus popping the cap out. Then with the cap out of the way, you can remove the M5 bolt and press the axle out towards the right hand side. You should not press the whole length of the damaged axle through the flywheel, the hole might get damaged as well.
Thanks Martin, very helpful! Good info about the axle removal, thanks
For anyone reading, I managed to get my pulley out with a rear windshield wiper extractor and lots of penetrating oil first. I would not recommend this method though if the corrosion does not break easily, you will damage the pulley as the aluminium is very soft. I thought a M24 magneto puller would work, but as stated above it won’t do the trick.
I think using a 17 mm bolt is also a problem, mine was only fingertight. I’m having hard time finding a suitable socket. It looks like it will come loose without strong thread lock
Mind you, Jetblack started using a bolt hole on the axle + a wavy washer on the drive side in-between the bearing & preload tube with Victory.
Thanks for trying that out. Do you have a way to get your new axle and spacer made? And do you have access to an arbor press for installing the axle? Hammering it in is not an option.
I now have my trainer running smoothly again, and it will likely last longer thanks to the steel spacer.
The new axle seems to have a tighter tolerance than the original one, I had to slightly scratch the inside of the pulley with a small file to get it on. This is remarkable because I didn’t machine the axle surface. It’s just bright steel, cold drawn to h9 tolerance. For the threads I think going to M8 internal on both ends would work. Depending on your bolt head you might have to modify the decorative cap on the flywheel to get it in.
I’m just asking for quotes and maybe my material requirements are a little too much (42CrMo4).
So maybe I could reply to quotes with “a cold drawn stainless steel 15mm h9 tube is ok”? Good call on the press, I think I have access to one.
For the threads I think going to M8 internal on both ends would work
That’s what they did with Jetblack Victory I believe.
When I’m done - I want to believe I can work myself through this - I will post the whole process with pictures to the thread.
I took what I had, but could have gotten away with lower grade steel I think. I would not add stainless to the mix, other parts might develop more corrosion.
How about ordering a rod from that large auction house (333936619060 for example if you’re in Europe) and bringing it to a lokal machine shop for the detail work?
For the spacer, 18x1.5mm seamless tubing will do.
Edit: Maybe you do not even need to have a circlip groove. A 1mm washer might do, if there is a more substantial M8 bolt on the flywheel side.
Very true - stainless was a bit of a brain fart. I got some pretty reasonable quotes, will work out the details. I might as well ask for a 111,5 long axle with m8 on both ends and use flange bolt for the pulley wheel end. Might even be easier to manufacture?
Jetblack Victory internals, pics borrowed from another thread (forums . zwift . com/t/jet-black-victory/638919/738?page=37). Notice the design change.
Slow progress. Axle has been installed (went well) but there’s still rumble even with the new bearings. Non-drive side bearing went in as expected, there was some resistance with the other. I did this a couple of times, but same results - the bearings went in straight.
I’m currently investigating if the drive-side bearing cup is deformed or too small, which would explain it - I’ve cleaned it thoroughly with steel wool, no pitting or scratches there.
What tools do you use for installing the bearings? There are bearing press tool sets available that make installation easy and make sure the bearings remain intact. Worth the money especially if you have more bearing maintenance to do.
And now that I think about it, I may have been lucky I only had C3 tolerance bearings in that size, so this may have been what saved me.
I ended up buying proper 6002 inserts & press from Bearing Pro Tools dot com (highly recommended). Also, decided to try installing the two original belt guide bearings and lo & behold, they went in nicely without any issues. Biggest tell tale sign of good installation was that the pre-tension tube was already way more tighter fit than with previous attemps. Unfortunately forgot to take photos on the installation. It’s completely noise free now and very, very smooth
I replaced the orginal 17 mm axle nut with a flange nut, so much better now. So this trainer is now back in working condition, just in time for the spring
to **** (sent email)
if the corrosion does not break easily, you will damage the pulley as the aluminium is very soft. I thought a M24 magneto puller would work, but as stated above it won’t do the trick.
