Paul, I am 88 kg and I think with 162 Watt I could not go up at 7% climb.
Was riding IRL yesterday - 300 Watt - 8,5% - 11 km/h (= 6,875 mph).
Hi, might been 5% cant remember, i was on big ring say 53x28…4/5mph the kinetic app on phone said right wattage and rpm has zwift on pc… but the speed on zwift pc was very low, kinetic app on phone said 21kph. Wattage and rpm was same on zwift and kinetic app.iam 75kg. 6ft 2.
A rough estimation from http://bikecalculator.com/ shows speeds of 8kph and 11kph for 7% and 5% grades respectively. Based on that it appears Zwift was pretty close to what would be expected at the stated wattage/weight you listed.
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Paul, did you get this sorted out? I was having the same issue with my rock ‘n’ roll – I did a calibration through the Kinetic app and it was taking 18 seconds to calibrate, ideal is 4.5 to 5.5 according to their help pages. I cranked down the resistance knob and it made a huge difference even though I thought I already had it quite tight.
Hi, no, speed seems 5mph out on flat, on zwift, its way out on a climb, i know the resistance does not change on this trainer, calibration 2.00 or 1.95. There’s not much thread left on the resistance knob! there his a bit of tyer slip on starting off. Just about givern up with it. Cant keep up with people on zwift. i had a wahoo kicker it was brilliant untill that knackard up! 4 machines later! Sent it back to wiggle. Got a old bkool that won’t connect to zwift its not fec enabled.
Got it working of sorts…tightened resistance knob! Pumped tyer up to 12opsi plus…calibrated to 175…the lower the better…although trying to Sprint at dead stop to 22mph does require effort! Seems quicker on the climbs! But down hill!..42mph riders coming past me! Seem to have to pedal fast…just done tdf3 on zwift 23.9 mph…200watts for 1 hour 18…cadance 77rpm ave…so…did keep up with a few groups! Doing summet right.
@paul_canham_5462
See this: How Does Zwift Determine My Speed?
Your bike computer and Zwift will not match. Your bike computer does not know your height, weight or if you are going up or down.
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Iam not useing a bike computer… its zwift on pc,surly when you set up zwift you put correct height in, correct weight, correct ftp! It all ties in with zwift power account which you have to have. Looked ok to me.
It’s impossible the kinetic rock and roller! I calibrated it to1.75…went on zwift group ride! Can’t keep up on hills even a 4% 150 plus watts 85rpm going backwards! Yet down hill its faster. Gona get another sensor and put on the wheel has speed sensor pair the kinetic has a power meter!
i’ve found that my R&R was giving about 9 seconds, i did one manage about 7 but got wheel slip at higher resistance.
I now use Garmin V3 pedals as the power source, now just have to screw roller down to prevent wheel slip at above 280W ish
i’m using the green kinetic trainer tyre at 100 psi,
the wall behind my trainer has a line of black rubber up there wall, should it shred like this ?
The tyre is rea lively now and not showing signs of wear.
Hi, any progress with the innacurate cadence speed in zwift while using a Kurt kinetic smart control trainer. I am experiencing the same problem.
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Are you any close to solve this problem, since it exist for over one year.
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I’ve bumped the ticket. Thank you for the reminder.
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Hi there, I bought a Kinetic Road Machine Smart 2 Bike Trainer two months ago and I have experienced the same issue (and other minor ones) even with the Kinetic Fit App. No matter how I calibrate the trainer, the cadence the sensor shows is always 5 to 12 rpm too low.
I have contacted their support team on that subject and here is the answer I received:
“Our cadence is derived from the torque spikes that occur on the left and right downward stroke, then that data is filtered and cadence is estimated. Cadence averages should be spot on with a crank mounted sensor (if you have one), though your instant cadence number is likely more jumpy due to the sensitivity of our sensor. You can add a BLE cadence sensor if you’d like more solid cadence data, we sell them here. [link to their website]”
From what I have read around forums, this issue is very common, and Kinetic is well aware of the situation. I doubt Zwift would be able to do something to compensate for this problem.
So basically, the cadence feature of the Kinetic InRide sensor is useless and we are told to spend more money to get something that was advertised as part of the product… And to think that the description on their website says “No additional sensors or add-ons are needed.” I am quite disappointed with the company, to say the least.
I hope this is usefull.
I will keep reading this thread in hope a solution comes up regardless.
Cheers,
Ive used a Kurt Kinetic rock and roll for years , during which time they have replaced 3 frames free of charge (including postage) where the welds have cracked . ( if you start getting strange power readings or wheel slip, or hit the floor! check the welds.)
Recently company policy seems to have changed and they require extrtionate shipping costs ( from the USA-UK) ( note not from their European agent)
Im now using a Road machine control, as I do not trust the ( often replaced) R&R frames.
I have found that the Kinetic controls always have needed a cadence sensor
( originally I just used the speed/cadence sensor from when I had a (faultless) fluid unit)
I now use garmin V3 pedals for cadence and power, which do not requite the dodgy hard to accomplish spin down test, an expensive solution for those already using a KK ( I just transfer back and forth off my road bike)
Im not sure how accurate their direct drive R1 is.
I am glad others are seeing this as well. I thought I was losing my mind! I would love to just add a cadence sensor to my setup but unfortunately I am limited to the AppleTV 2 BTLE connections. And my HR monitor takes up the other one. Hopefully this is some how fixable. I have the older Smart Control so hopefully it can be a Zwift fix as they most likely will not update FW on the unit at this point.
Hello!
Any update on this issue? Cadence can’t reach over 65 RPM in Zwift and flickers between a number and zero when spinning in the connection view.
Kinetic Fit app & TrainerRoad shows > 100 RPM if I spin. Calibration done in Kinetic to 5.2 seconds as per recommendation.
Game version 1.22.1
Kinetic firmware v1266
PC, Windows 11
Zwiftalizer shows no BLE dropout.
Regards
I think it’s a Kinetic issue, not Zwift.
Any update on this issue?
I’ve still got the same issue with Cadence. Any update please