Kinetic inride...results accurate?


(Paul LeBlanc) #1

I finally got my Inride 2 upgrade in the mail.  Used it for the 1st time last night.

 

I don’t know if I should believe the Watts generated by inride… I am getting at least 20 Watts more (to compare inride vs zpower I used the same gear and same speed measured on my Garmin 510)… at 35 km\hour on the Garmin, my Zpower Watts on Zwift hover around 280… Inride’s hovers around 310… 

The highest weighted average power I got on a ride using Z power  was 279… got a Weighted average 326 Watts last night on my inride.  Makes a huge difference on my Watts\kg… 3 Watts\kg zpower vs 3.5 Watts\kg on the inride…

I did do the spindown calibration…

 

What should I believe?

 


(Duane Gran [Vision]) #2

The Kinetic has a really well established power curve.  I ride an Inride as well (along with CompuTrainer and Kinetic Smart Control) and in my experience it tracks pretty well, but it has been a while since I did some comparison with a borrowed power meter.  I do know from recollection that if the wheel contact roller isn’t tight enough I would get higher than normal watts, in line with what you describe.

I would give it a quarter turn tighter and re-calibrate.


(Maurizio Gigliotti) #3

Without a power meter it is impossible to say.

You have people :

November 06, 2016

Tom : I experience on “good InRide” is all steady state power about 2-3% higher reading than my powertap…
Luke : After calibration it was consistently 10/15/20% higher than the PowerTap…


(Tim Schroepfer) #4

Hello All!

I’m also seeing the 25-30+ watts higher using the Road Machine with my inRide sensor. ZPower comparatively seems low as well by a smaller margin, both when compared to a CatEye/4iiii left side only power meter.

I’ve tried them all in as steady a state rpm range as possible to keep the 4iiii from spiking, as I understand both the inRide and Zpower would be ‘drivetrain’ calculated.

I will try the additional 1/4 turn as suggested above and report back in the next couple of days.

I also want to mention that i’m using an indoor trainer tire as well to help with the contact at the roller.

Regards,

Tim 


(Duane Gran [Vision]) #5

Tim,

Make sure you also do the calibration routine with the Kinetic Fit app for iOS or Android.  You warm up for about 10 minutes with tires pumped to about 100 psi and then it does a roll down calibration.  I’ve tested with this and seen it really tighten up the figures.

If you do this and you are still seeing a variance like this it could be a service issue with the device itself.  Either way, let us know what you find.

Duane


(Tim Schroepfer) #6

Hi Duane,

I wondered if the separate Kinetic app had any effect, so that’s good to know and i will try that tonight after work.

So my guess would be that the Kinetic Fit app sets the params for the inRide device and once calibrated sync up better with Zwift via the BlueTooth.

One question i would ask is, can that 10 min warmup be in Zwift and then after the 10 mins and the separate Android calibration, i can continue the ride in Zwift? or does the 10 mins warmup/calibration have to be outside of Zwift before i’d even login?

Thanks in advance!!

–Tim

 


(Duane Gran [Vision]) #7

Tim,

Because of the way Bluetooth works (pairing one device at a time) the calibration work needs to be done before pairing the Inride sensor with Zwift.  It *might* work to ride in Zwift, unpair, pair in Fit app, calibrate, disconnect Fit and then re-pair in Zwift but I haven’t tried.  If you try this I would be interested to know how it goes.  Obviously this wouldn’t work well in the midst of an event ride or something planned like that.

The good news is that after you calibrate if you leave the bike on the trainer you are pretty much set.  By “the book” you should calibrate every time, but I find that keeping the tire pressure consistent at 100psi (pump up every other day or so) is all it takes.  If you take the bike off the trainer then re-calibration is necessary for good numbers because the press on force will inevitably vary between setups.

Duane


(Tim Schroepfer) #8

Duane,

Kinda what i thought, so i’ll most likely do the warm up first using the Fit app to track that time and then calibrate. After the calibration I would then log into Zwift and go.

I find that i like a 20 min warm up before pretty much any effort, zone 2 or above - so i’ll experiment with the Fit app/calibration process and just uplad that to Strava/Training Peaks for tracking my time, etc.

Thanks again and fingers crossed! I report back in the next couple of days on my results:-)

–Tim

 


(Tim Schroepfer) #9

Duane,

I was able to get things sorted Tuesday evening after some messing with the pressure against the tire @ 100 +/- psi. 

The session tracked very close to my 4iiii that i was comparing on my head unit, with the 4iiii spiking because of the strain gauge versus the smoothing/normalization that one would expect from a ‘drivetrain’ power meter.

I rode again this morning before work, not having changed anything and with the pressure still @ 100 psi - again all was good and tracking exact to the 4iiii.

Now the only real issue will be if Zwift ever gets the ZML connectivity sorted, as in a 1 hour session i dropped @ min 30 and then again 25 mins later:-(

I’ve made sure that i’m on the exact wifi instance that my laptop is while using my S7 droid.

So while the power reading looks promising, the ZML connectivity may be the deal breaker, whereas i would always have to use my one bike on the trainer that has the 4iiii power meter. I know this is a 1st world problem, but i have multiple other bikes that i would hope to use with the inRide providing the power reading.

–Tim