Clutching at straws here, but is there anyone who started out on Zwift with the original Jetblack Fluid (pre-dates the Z1 & Z2) and rode with it connected as “Z1” - and has since upgraded to a supported trainer?
The reason I ask is I’m curious to know how the numbers stacked up against a properly-supported trainer?
I’ve got mine set as “Z1” only to get some ‘reasonable’ numbers; I primarily do workouts, sometimes just ride - I’ve *never* entered any sort of event or group ride. Not that I’d make an impact anyway, I took a stab at an FTP of 160W (~1.7W/kg) and still can’t hold 2x 240W for 1 minute, and the 480W 10s intervals are a pipe-dream, though the sweet-spot interval @145W is getting fairly easy now.
Sadly, for now, a power meter or other supported trainer is just not an option (mine was gifted). I’m a noob but having great fun in Zwift - even just the workouts - but now curiosity is getting the better of me and I’m dying to get some sort of idea how much (little?) power I’m actually producing! At least using “Z1” I can tailor my workouts to my own fake numbers, even if the power curve is not linearly proportional to my trainer.
The most important thing in using Zwift (especially workouts) is having consistency from ride to ride. A Smart trainer (or Power Meter) is not any better if it is not properly calibrated before (and for some trainers during) a ride. With the power you are putting out I wouldn’t worry too much about the mismatch power curve of your trainer.
When I started using Zwift I was on a very cheap unsupported trainer with a speed and cadence sensor and after 6 month I ungraded to trainer that transmitted power and recently moved to a power meter. The one thing I made sure was that I had everything consistent fro ride to ride and did a calibration/zero test before every ride.
If your near by gym has quality calibrated stationary bikes you could try that or maybe a local bike shop would let you do an FTP test.
Too many people using Zwift are overly concerned about other peoples setups.
Agreed with your point on consistency; that’s why using “Z1” even though it isn’t a Z1 is useful to me for gauging progress.
The only issue is that I can’t determine my “real world” figures which would let me know where I sit in the scheme of things. It’s academic curiosity more than anything else!
If your near by gym has quality calibrated stationary bikes you could try that or maybe a local bike shop would let you do an FTP test.