I replaced the PCBA myself, it’s pretty easy to DIY, definitely not worth the bother of sending the trainer back to get JB to do it for you. This video shows you what needs doing:
Unfortunately it didn’t solve my wifi issues. I think the firmware updates solved mine. Although my wifi router has been messing about for a while now and I have had it replaced and haven’t had any dropouts since, so maybe it was my router causing the issue.
Thank you so much Mark for the reply and link to video. My internet/router is decent and have repeaters around the house. Only device I notice with drop outs is the JBV.
I’ll do the PCBA change and if I still have issues I think it will be time to look at other trainer options. OR just use JBV with Bluetooth and additional cadence sensor.
The only time i’ve had a similar issue to yours, regarding the cadence, is when I was dual recording power data and I used a phone app via BT to calibrate my secondary power meter. Even though I quit the app on my phone, it still somehow interfered with Zwift and wouldn’t let my cadence drop to zero. Since that incident I now calibrate the power meter before I turn on my PC and JB Victory. Do you have any other programs/apps running in the background that could be causing a similar interference?
I use the JBV for power, cadence, controllable etc. I record the activity on my Garmin 540 and use the Zwift companion app on a spare phone.
Other than that no other devices to pair or apps open.
I have Favero power meter pedals on my outdoor bike but they would be in sleep mode. Thinking I might test them out on Zwift Ride and use them as power and cadence and see do things improve.
Hey everyone,
Just wanted to share my experience. I finally got my Jetblack Victory this week and was super excited to get going. The first ride was great, but on my second ride, I got hit with the dreaded WiFi connection bug.
Afterwards, I started reading up and saw all the negative sentiment about it. A bit of a downer, to be honest.
My trainer is on firmware 4.22, which I’ve read was supposed to address some of these WiFi issues.
For those of you who have been through this, is it worth trying to troubleshoot and fix it? Or would you recommend just sending it back under warranty? I’m kind of on the fence about what to do next.
Thanks for any advice!
If WiFi is important, try to get a refund. I’m satisfied with Bluetooth so I’m keeping the Victory. Dropouts are unacceptable.
David
Hi, I purchased a Victory yesterday (2-Aug-2025). I updated firmware to 4.22, then also had a few issues with WiFi connection - Perhaps because my router is dual 2.4G/5G on the same SSID?
After adding the wifi details, I pulled the power cable to the Victory then reconnected power, and after reboot wifi connected and has been fine for 5 rides / power cycles. The Victory wifi link worked fine with Zwift, including heart rate over wifi - So all good for me so far.
I have noticed a bit of power meter discrepancy between my Favero Assioma Dual pedals and the Victory (Assioma’s reading low by 2-3%) - see image. I did do spin-down calibration on the Victory but haven’t calibrated the Assioma’s yet. Will do some longer rides after cal and check again.
New firmware out 4.23. Not sure if there’s any notes yet. I’ve had a few unexplained dropouts since using 4.22, and one was during an important race up the grade.
One thing I didn’t consider but am now testing is the impact of wifi meshing. I’ve got deco dual band mesh routers spread throughout the house and my devices should auto connect to the router with the best signal. I’m wondering if a momentary switch to a different deco could be causing the disconnects. Just last night, I went into my Victory/router settings and move the Victory over to my IoT network (2.4 ghz only) and turned off meshing. BTW, the device was just named espressif - real original 
.
I have a case open with JBV as have Wi-Fi drop outs and cadence/power not dropping to ZERO when freewheeling. Using Wi-Fi would be great but have no issue using BT. What impacts me most is the cadence/power not dropping to ZERO.
It means you avatar does not do super tuck position and you have to keep on pedaling on descents to stay in touch with a group.
I thought buying my own cadence sensor would address the cadence/power not dropping to ZERO issue but it still persists due to the power not dropping so it looks like Zwift hazards a guess on my cadence based on JBV reporting power. It does drop to ZERO a bit faster than it was previoulsy.
I have a DHL shipping slip so I can use that up until mid September. I have just updated from firmware v4.22 to v4.23. I will test this tomorrow using Wi-Fi as well as the inbuilt cadence sensor of the JBV. If both still have issues I think I will send back for a replacement unit.
I’ve had that issue before. Definitely seems the worst after a 5+ min sustained, hard (350 watt) climb. I suspect there’s some phantom watts that accumulate when the flywheel is super hot that stay when freewheeling.
An in app spindown after a warmup seems to have helped, but I still occasionally get this.
ETA: volcano is an example climb that has created this issue. Also, I’ve seen riders on kickr cores have the same issue.
Thanks for the reply Alex. Glad I am not the only one. Sounds like a new unit will not fix the issue.
For my next ride I will try and allow some time to do a 10 minute warm up in Zwift, carry out a JBV app spin down calibration and then ride as normal.
“Freewheeliing” will show a cadence as it is spinning the cranks but very little power.
Do you mean “coasting”.
They’re the same thing.
Based on looking up definitions of both.. I would go with coasting.. 
Coasting is the action of riding a bicycle without pedaling
Interesting…I actually Googled it. For the last 5 decades I have meant “freewheeling” to be pedaling without power (Downhill in Zwift to keep generating drops). When did this all change? With e-bikes?
Freewheeling is surely utilising the freewheel on your bike? So whether you are also gently turning the pedals at the same time or not doesn’t really matter.
Well I suppose it matters if one is looking for a cadence of 0.
All I know is I stop pedalling (no rpm/movement) to me that should show as zero power and zero cadence. The power and cadence still reports that there is power being put out and this is up to 10-15 seconds without me spinning my legs.
I have to use my pedals for cadence. The Victory would just randomly drop out. It would reset eventually. I’m glad I don’t have to deal with the dropouts. For all the Victory’s faults, I’ve found a work around.
Bluetooth has been solid so I don’t need the Wifi. If I needed Wifi or cadence, I would have returned the unit.
David
I am planning to swap my power meter pedals over and use that for power and cadence. I expect the experience to be a lot better.
