Anyone here own the new direct drive trainer from Kinetic, the R1 yet? Looking for a current owner user perspective, not a re-seller or Kinetic support or people that have just read or watched reviews.
If you’ve got it, what do you like and dislike about it specific to using with Zwift. I’m seeing quite a bit of negative stuff on YouTube regarding stability/QA so I’m curious if it works well for some folks here.
Thanks,
Jason
Any news on Kinetic R1?..
I have one. Have had it about 5 days. I do have an issue with the freehub (it catches on spin down), but reported it to Kinetic and a new one is being sent.
Now… it seems to report my power WAY high (like in the 400 range - yup just call me Superman! Maybe i should turn pro, now that I am 50…lol:rofl:!!l)… I’m hoping that is related to the freehub needing to be replaced? Might be more related to not getting calibrated properly??? To calibrate, you need to use the Kinetic app, then disconnect and go into Zwift, but I haven’t found where a calibration number should go. Currently Zwift doesnt show a button to calibrate within the app for the R1… maybe I am not looking in the right place??
Hi, Stephen,
Thank you for the answer.
So, you need to calibrate it each time before any ride on Zwift?
As I understand the R1 model could be used also without any additional apps or electricity as a usual fluid trainer, what make it really cool.
And what will you say about general feelings during the ride on this trainer?
_----
I’m having he Rock&Roll Smart 2 and since the beginning the whole thing with calibration was too complicated. When connecting to Zwift it is really simple and straight forward connection and the trainer connecting immediately. But when I would like to calibrate the trainer on Kinetic app I was able to do it maybe twice out 10 or even maybe 15 times.
I may just go for a TacX Neo, I read that those are zero-calibration and I just wanna get on the bike and ride. I know some folks who own direct-drive trainers who just calibrate when they setup their trainer and only re-calibrate when they move it, but it seems like all the other trainer manufacturers recommend spin-down calibrations every 2 weeks or so. If I can spend $200 more and not have to do that, I may just do that.
@Adam_Qwert_Nayana: Yes you need to calibrate each time. Not sure about the other trainers (Kickr, Neo), but I think they also need a calibration… At least occasionally, as belts loosen up over time of use.
Yes, you can use the R1 as a “stand-alone” unplugged trainer (i.e. for warm-ups prior to an actual race, out in the real world is the most common reason that I see for this - You can apparently set a resistance level in the app prior to unplugging and heading off, but I have not checked into this, yet).
General feelings: I like it. Now, having said that, I have pretty much no experience on other wheel-off or even smart trainers… After several reviews, I leaned towards the R1 as it allows the rocking motion, that I was accustomed to from my Rock & Roll fluid trainer, AND off course it is less pricey than the Kickr.
@_Nightyear: Yup, I looked at the TacX Neo as well… Definitely a cool set-up there. Hadn’t read that they are zero-calibration. Yeah, the spin down calibrations are apparently due to the wear/stretching of the belts, etc… over time. The actual calibrations take very little time… I quick peddle up to about 40KMpH, then coast down to stop - So maybe 30 seconds. Though you should warm the trainers up first for about 10 mins (give or take) → Basically do your own regular warm-up on the bike, then do the calibration, and go! So not a huge inconvenience, but I hear you about just wanting to go.
Yes, I’ve took my Rock&Roll version for the rocking motion also. Tried different trainers in gym and never liked the “stable and non moving sensation”. And this does not mean that I’m always standing on the bike for the rocking motion ), even during the slow ride the Kinetic bike is moving slightly - this is what makes my ride comfortable.
Well…yes , me at some point I’ve just stopped to calibrate mine. I do think that I’m loosing a little bit of power when not calibrating, noticed that during the ride on another trainer in gym when suddenly I was able to push more than usually I do on my own trainer. But again, for the usual fun ride it is totally enough for me, although most of the riders will not like it and I should really calibrate it before competitions for sure.
I wounder how many riders out there that not really calibrating their trainer before each ride.
Yeah, I think the time I least want to stop and calibrate is after a 10 minute warmup. Part of the issue is that wheel-on trainers have a tensioner adjustment that you typically can’t get to while you’re on the bike, so you’re climbing off, adjusting it, then re-doing a spin down, then climbing off and re-adjusting until it’s dialed in. That’s usually 3 or 4 iterations for me to get close to “7” for the Rock and Roll Smart trainer. It’s pretty inconvenient and it just kills the focus and momentum of the workout to me. I get that stopping for calibration doesn’t bug everyone, but I want to buy my way out of that hassle, so I think I may go with a Tacx Neo.
There just aren’t enough positive reviews of the R1 at this point to go with it, and all I’ve been able to find are negative reports about the QA that Kinetic hasn’t done.
I have just got R1 for 3 week.
I have to say the power is not accurate compare to my Assioma power meter.
The calibration sometime ok sometime not. I think they have to fix this problfm as soon as possible.
I also found " catch up free hub " but I lube the freehub frank with chisn loop and it is ok now.
My solution now is pair
power with Assioma.
control Trainer with kinetic.
My assumption is R1 calculate power from the time that speed slowdown not from the torque.
Hey,
I’m thinking of buying the R1 cause it’s on sale here for 600 Euros.
So it’s the cheapest direct drive trainer you can get new with warranty here.
Is it worth it?
Why hasn’t GPLama made a Lama Lab Test yet?
Till now there are only YT Videos of that guy who only unboxing it and the one whose device is broken 
Till now I’m riding on an old Tacx Blue Motion and I don’t have a power meter.
Thought about buying a used Elite Qubo Digital Smart B+ but you need to calibrate it properly with a power meter.
I had the Rock N Roll 2 for 2 years. I just got the R1.
Pros: The resistance is harder, I was spinning out on the flats on the RR2
Cons: The wattage is WAY off. For me it’s way too low. I average 50W lower across an hour ride, and the resistance is way harder.
The rocking rubber is WAY looser than the RR2. I had to stand on a wrench to tighten it just a little bit
Hopefully its a firmware fix they can supply.
That said, the support guys are AWESOME and are always willing to trouble shoot. That’s why i bought another one. In the end its about getting in better shape, but i would like the wattage to be valid for me.
4.1 Calibration after 10 min
Hey guys, I just got my R1 T7000 today,
And off course I am looking for users informations and riding experience. My wattage is way way off (low-lower), and the resistance is way way harder (today I needed to stand out of the saddle just to be able to go thru a little segment of 4% inclination (on the lightest gear). Impossible… does anyone there had some similar experience? How are you dealing with that! Thank you all!!! 
Hi Lincon, Welcome to the forum.
I don’t have one but know riders with them.
Make sure you are on the latest firmware, I know they are updating firmware to make it more accurate.
Use the manufacturer App to do a calibration.
What device do you use for Zwift? If you use ANT+then make sure to pick the FE-C option.
HI @Lincon_Rodrigues welcome to Zwift forums.
What trainer were you using previously? If you’re comparing the numbers from a wheel-on trainer vs. a direct drive trainer, it’s typical to have significant differences between the two types. Most wheel-on trainers will have an accuracy in the +/- 3-5 % range, where direct drive trainers are like +/- 2-3 % So when you say “way way off” how much difference are you talking about? Is it a few pecentage points?
As far as the difficulty on hills - try manually lowering your FTP number in the game settings by 10 to 20 for now. When your perform an FTP test on your current trainer, you might expect a lower number than before. Don’t lose sleep over this. Moving forward, measure your progress against your baseline on the R1, and you’ll be fine.
Thank you so much for the fast replay Gerrie, much appreciated!
I did the calibration at the app of Kinetic, then disconnected from it in order
To connect with the app of Zwift, but man, it is still rough… I feels like 3x harder, really 300% it is not a narrow margin… Zwift has its own calibration for that, but I tried several times and at the end of it is always there a message: “fail - calibration timed out”. Frustrating.
I use a MacBook Air for my Zwift app, and connecting via Bluetooth.
Thank you for the attention! 
Hi @shooj, thank you so much for your time and attention!
I have an Elite Turbo Muin Smart B+ in my other house, Vienna. This one I just bought for my home/office here in Malta (wonderful view for amazing rides, but sometimes the sides winds sometimes can be terrifying, so I got a home trainer here too)!
The Elite trainer in Vienna, displays a similar with the Wattage which my outdoors average, thou still a bit harder. But I am fine with that.
But the Kinetic R1 T7000, wow… out of this world, it is 300% harder. I am 68kg, in my regular rides here at the island along this week I am holding 160w average on rides of 90+ minutes, with some good surges at the hills, but yesterday on my first ride with the Kinetic, I struggled to hold 60w for 30 minutes 
!!!
It should, it must be wrong… (the rocking motion of the Kinetic R1 feels great, I loved it from the first minute on… man, I would love to get a perfect setup and enjoy it on its best)!!!
Any input will be much appreciated! Cheers
That isn’t normal.
Maybe your R1 is broken?
You don’t have to use the Zwift calibration, the manufacturer app does the same thing, in fact it is better to use the manufacturer app because the manufacturer will update their app first. The calibration values are stored on the trainer not the app or Zwift.
Check your trainer firmware aswell.
hey @Bench, no, I don’t think it is broken,
as it works in a very smooth way on its own platform app. with a realistic wattage, resistance and speed… there is a connection problem in between the R1 and the Zwift app, for my poor understood it seams to be the case, but I have no clue how to solve it… have done another 30 minutes ride while trying to calibrate and changing settings around, but it is still very frustrating.