Odd to me that mine consistently reads high vs my single side crank PM, that’s on two units now (by a similar amount on both).
Everyone else seems to be having theirs reading low!
I’ve had the victory for about 6 weeks now and been using it with the Zwift cog. The click controller has now broken, over the last week it kept disconnecting, kept shifting when the button was released and just not responding for long periods. I switched back to a regular cassette and had my first ride like that today.
I did feel some vibration in the top couple of cigs when standing, although I think this may be more down to my bike (a 20 year old MTB, although it does have a new chain and the cassette is now about 5 years old). I do miss the virtual shifting since I think I had a higher top gear than I do now, the virtual shifting definitely had closer ratios and was so much smoother.
Great, and thanks for sending that out.
Ron
My replacement Victory started squeaking this week after less than two weeks of use. I suppose it’s another bad bearing. Based on the infrequency of posts here it sounds like everybody got one that works well. Or am I not alone?
The app will no longer connect with my Victory trainer. Anyone else have this issue?
Did you delete the app and then reinstall it?
Yeah, that didn’t work.
It’s been 1 month and I am still waiting for them to confirm a replacement unit.
BTW, I should have said the problem is on my android phone. No problem using the app on my iPad.
I have the same thing. now the jetblack reads 2 3% or more on certain intensity than my assioma duo pedals as well as my shimano dura ace power pedals. I updated to latest version, everything and calibrated
Could be a realistic deviation because of drivetrain losses (2%)?
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After a couple weeks with whatever the newest firmware is, the trainer has been pretty reliable and connection has been stable. Dual recording with my Quarq shows the Victory reading 10% low until it warms, up, then it’s within 2% which is fine with me.
The only real complaint I have now, is grades above 10% and cadence under 80 the resistance is pretty notchy. Which feels weird.
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I am very happy with my JBV setup with the Zwift Ride frame.
I have Bluetooth disconnect issues though with the Zwift Play Controllers. Loses connection, then I cannot shift gears or use any buttons. Serious ruinous to the ride experience…
I do not fathom why Zwift did not just build the Play Controllers with USB cable connection option. Why not?
are you connecting via companion? Wife had similar issues and she put her phone in airplane mode (as per a zwift article) and companion and BT stability increased significantly
Is the firmware on your Play controllers up to date? Connection issues used to be very common in the early days, but is very rare for anyone to mention these days.
no because I have a dura ace transmission, everything is super quiet. I had maybe 1.5% at most more with the Victory at the beginning before updating to the latest version, there I said above 2 3% but I think it’s more than that because when riding at about 280w on my Assioma duo pedals I have 300w at least on the Victory. my Shimano power sensor reads about 270/275w. I’m impatiently waiting for another update because we can’t go back. I’m on version 4.10
again today i did a double recording and i got 208w Assioma and 232w on the Victory. i calibrated both before riding to be sure.
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I found my problem, it came from automatic calibration which was not done in freewheel. I do them manually with application and the power was to the nearest watt with my Assioma duo. before that when I let the freewheel do it I had not paid attention that my power did not go down to 0, it remained at 28/32w. if that can help
Just FYI to any with clanking or ticking noises – about 2/3 of the way through the brutal ZRL race last night on the NYC Everything Bagel course, I began to hear a bunch of rumbling noise coming from the trainer. Afterwards, I could about one about one “clank” per flywheel revolution. Upon removing the side plate, it seems that the noise was actually coming from the tensioner spring moving – maybe due to a little slop in the flywheel pulley. I retorqued the flywheel pulley bolt and the noise is now gone. There were no issues with accuracy with the noise or after torqueing the bolt.
Maybe this will help someone in the future. If this happens again, I may look into a stronger thread locker. I just used the standard blue, oil-resistant 243 loctite. I’ve got some red on hand, but that may be too extreme.
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Thanks, this is good to know. My first Victory did this clanking noise whenever I’m riding a very steep gradient. Sent video to Jetblack and got a replacement. Have not had this noise so far with the replacement.
Yes it is up to date. Have tried setting my phone to Mobile Data off, Bluetooth off. Force closed the Companion app (don’t need it really, and trying to remove factors)