Hill help

A newby to this and ticking along OK with a few decent races.

Big step back today tho. Shortish race and kicked out the back door on an 8% percent hill. I was Crusing along with lead group until then. Finished way back in 74th. Can’t seem to go fast up hills, or down them.

Held 4.01w/kg which is high over the group.

Any advice welcome.


Hi @stephen_sharp9124, can you give us more info about your setup? What trainer are you using, what gearing on your bike, what in-game bike and wheels you have selected, etc…

Zwiftpower has you listed as a B (almost A) cat racer, so the competition is tough and fast!

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Hi Mike…thanks for your time to reply.

Sure…my first race which put me in A was done with no resistance on my trainer(saris m+) which I think gave me a high score. On setting 5 now.

Along with the Saris trainer I have the normal Zwift bike with slightly better wheels(not many points atm). Actual bike is my friend’s BMC SSX01, no idea of gears(2 large cogs front and 10 at the back).

I do plan to get a smart trainer and bike…but wanted to try stuff out first. I come from a running background(14.02 5k). So my endurance is pretty decent.

You should use the resistance level showing in the Pairing screen.

I would guess you are reaching the max resistance of the trainer therefore you can’t produce more power than the trainer resistance. (assuming the curve is the same as cyclops mag)

I’m sure it should be setting 5? It’s a Saris Mag+ Turbo trainer and I’m pretty sure i read it should be level 5.

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Good just checking.

So it is probably the max resistance.

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yeah…can only hit like 375 at the start. Always get left behind a tad. So have to keep the pedal for a while to catch front group.

You’ll have a much better experience with a smart trainer, more accurate than your current setup and you won’t be able to max out the wattage and get dropped on the hills.

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Yeah…wish I went with one from the start. Not much more than the trainer and sensor bits I brought.

Are they easier to hit bigger wattage? I managed 405w when warming up on mine. But that was eyeballs out for 10 seconds, top gear. Couldn’t go faster…maybe that’s my limit.

I would guess that was a limited by the trainer, you likely put out much higher than 400 watts but the inaccuracy of the trainer you are on didn’t register it correctly.

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Yeah…Amy idea of a good decent starter smart trainer that works with Zwift. Not mega money, just incase I stop…lol

I use a Wahoo Kickr Core, $900 plus you need a cassette so add $50 for that too. Wheel on smart trainers are less expensive, but have more limitations.

Check out the reviews on Zwiftinsider and DC Rainmaker always has a great review of all the trainers.

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Thanks Mike

What are the limitations with the wheel smart trainers…I’m never going to A group etc…

for example look at the Kickr Snap vs the Core:

KEY SPECS (Kickr Snap Wheel On)

  • MSRP: $499.99 USD
  • Accuracy: ±3%
  • Flywheel: 10.5lb
  • Max Wattage: 1500 W
  • Max Incline: 12%

KEY SPECS (Kickr Core Direct Drive)

  • MSRP: $899.99 USD
  • Accuracy: ±2%
  • Flywheel: 12lb
  • Max Wattage: 1800 W
  • Max Incline: 16%

The Snap is not as accurate, lower max wattage (probably doesn’t matter), smaller flywheel which can effect “road feel”, and lower max incline (not too many places in Zwift go above 16%, but they are out there). Wheel on trainers can ruin your tires too, so you need a specific trainer tire.

blimey…lots to think about. :thinking:

Maybe have another few weeks building up before I take the plunge. :slight_smile:

Much better today. 24th(ish) in the b race over 33k. Felt awesome. Last hill bit at the end:)

need to get that Canyon frame :slight_smile: