I’m at a complete loss here. I own an Elite TUO wheel-on trainer for 2 weeks now. It took a while to calibrate it via the Elite myETraining app but finally it worked. I didn’t calibrate it via Zwift, since there’s a known issue with the speed readings.
Anyways, in order to compare accuracy I was using Zwift with the bike of my father, which has a powermeter installed. When using the TUO without the powermeter, watt output on the flat is off by about 20 - 30 watts - which would be OK. BUT everytime I’m ascending it’s off by 150 - 300 watts. For instance, when I climb a gradient of 10% it shows 550 watts and more, which is obviously wrong. 250 - 300 I got while riding with the powermeter. Now did anyone else experience something similar?
I recalibrated the TUO several times, I’m sure that I set my weight correctly and I even contacted Elites customer support. But nothing so far. Am I not allowed to shift while the calibration process? Is Zwift missreading something?
Any sort of help would be much appreciated, because it takes away the fun of zwifting having wrong watts going uphill.
I have similar problems, but not to your extent.
I don‘t own a power meter, so I cannot provide any exact figures, but I have the feeling that it gets way easier to hold a certain wattage when going uphill, compared to flats.
On a flat course (Tick Tock), 245 watts for 40 minutes feel about the same as 305 watts on Alpe de Zwift for the same duration, my heart rate is also quite similar. Likewise it feels a lot harder to pedal the same power downhill. To me it feels like when going uphill the trainer thinks it added more resistance than it actually does but calculates the power as if it did. Vice versa when going downhill.
50 % difficulty or 100% difficulty made no difference on the perceived effect, but I am going to try with 0%.
I have the same issue. Just borrowed my bro’s TUO. updated firmware to 194 to fix the cadence issue. Then did a spindown using the myelite app and rode. I’ve noticed that the power on flats is pretty on target compared to my tacx. But as you said, when I put the pedal down the watts spike. Flat out sprints I usually hit 800W… TUO shows 1200W to 1700W… LOL. Like did I just turn into the hulk? Our club hammer rider puts out 900W to 1500W and I dusted him with no merits. I double checked my weight and FTP in Zwift. Did tire pressure check, wheel touch pre-lock in good, another spindown. Same result. Can’t figure it out.
Sadly I seem to have the same problem with a Tuo I just picked up a few months ago. Way too easy to hit 500+ watts when climbing. I’m a pretty strong rider, but I’m pretty sure my ftp isn’t 400+
Did any of you find a solution? Is it worth contacting Elite, or should I just buy something else?
Have you calibrated it via the Elite app? Don’t use Zwift’s own calibration. Have you checked that it has the latest firmware?
Oh, yes, calibrated multiple times using the app, and it is running the latest firmware.
Having the same problem think it’s the TUO have messaged elite but there not helpfully think will try and get my money back
Same problem here. The power seems to be OK on flat roads but is totally unrealistic when the road is climbing. On flat, I’m a B+ rider, 4W/kg. On Alpe du Zwift, I did a sub 40mn climbing time at 5.5W/kg average. I’m a bit strong, but I’m still human.
The Tuo is correctly calibrated with MyEtaining App, the firmware is the newest, all around is OK… I’m OK with the fact that a wheel-on can’t be so accurate than a direct drive, but at this point it’s not acceptable.
This sounds like an issue for Elite support. They can take you through some tests to identify whether your trainer is simply reporting the wrong data, or whether it’s a Zwift issue.