Cadence is not working properly

I was having this same issue of the cadence sensor always reading low and in the 60s. I haven’t done a ride but just got it to appear to read correctly for the first time ever. I did this by pairing/finding the speed and cadence sensors separately.

I did this by spinning the wheel and letting the speed sensor and establish a connection.

I then spun the cranks backwards to wake the cadence sensor and let it establish a connection.

I then hopped on and took the bike for a short ride and the cadence was magically reading correct. I did this on two separate tests and the cadence appeared to finally read right both times.

Before I was just spinning the cranks which in kind spun the wheel and woke and paired both sensors at the same time. Doing it this was never got my cadence to read correctly.

Hopefully my results last for a full ride.

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This essentially worked for me as well. I was having the same problem that the speed sensor seemed to be working well but cadence was definitely off, never going above 70 +/- rpms.

I tried your method, rotating the wheel to wake up the speed sensor without cadence. But as soon as speed sensor connected, the cadence sensor also connected even though the crank had not moved (are the two sensors somehow linked to each other?).

Anyway, I then took the battery out of the cadence sensor as a way to turn it off. Zwift still picked up speed and cadence but said “No Signal”. So, I then took the battery out of the speed sensor as well. Then I put the battery back in the speed sensor and connected it to Zwift. No cadence device was found so I was only connected to speed sensor. Then I put the cadence sensor battery back in, put it back on the crank, and woke it up. Then Zwift found the cadence sensor and connected to it.

And voila, speed and cadence readings both seem accurate. I suspect the two sensors somehow communicate with each other and this link needs to be “broken” in order to get the accurate cadence reading. Hope it helps.

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Thanks for the tip. This worked for me.

This is exactly my situation, brand new set up.

I need to talk to someone who can fix my ERG stuck on problem. My Zwift is now unusable. How do I contact Zwift?

You can contact Zwift through the support section of their website. Once you go through the chatbot, if you say that the help articles haven’t fixed it for you then you’ll eventually get a form where you can email support.

But you’ll probably find you get quicker help from the community here by starting a new thread and posting up full details of your setup and the problem.

I have had the same problem. Started with Megane Cadence Meter. It worked early on but became erratic. I then replaced it with Garmin thinking the Meter was the issue. The Garmin accurately reads to my watch but it at least 30 revolutions lower on Zwift workouts. Frustrating!

Had the same problem as everyone else with Wahoo cadence on Zwift. Not working and then capping out around 65 rpm. Can’t believe Zwift can’t fix this. I just want to get on and ride and not have to keep messing with something so ridiculous.

Recently set up with Rouvy and BAM worked the first time and works beautifully. Easy setup and accurate! Can just jump on and ride! So nothing wrong with your sensors - it is Zwift who can’t figure it out. Goodbye Zwift!

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I think I figured it out! If you are using the wahoo sensors, manually go in and delete or disable the speed sensor. I had to take my speed sensor off my bike and place it in another room. I believe sometimes the Bluetooth connections get confused and try to take information from the speed sensor and use it as cadence. Open the zwift app and pair sensors… Should fix the problem. Hope this helps! Let me know!

I’ve been struggling with my Wahoo heart, cadence, and speed sensors like the rest of you. Seems that running the sensors to the Zwift Companion app on my phone, and then using the Windows app on my laptop to read the bluetooth devices from the Companion app instead of directly worked.

I have similar issues. I have a Wahoo Kickr and a Wahoo Cadence sensor. The cadence sensor drops out a lot, and when it is reading, the values it gives don’t make sense. They are generally too low, and barely change.

Welcome to the forums Duncan.

Doesn’t the Kickr have integrated cadence? You may not need the sensor, unless the kickr is very old. I think the early models can’t estimate the cadence with the upgraded firmware.

How could a trainer measure cadence? It only sees power to the wheel and speed. It would need to have a sensor to measure pedal RPMs, or know your currently selected gear.

The trainer use the fluctuations in pedal stroke to estimate the cadence.

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A few trainers (like the Tacx Neo) do actually have a cadence sensor built in.

On the rest that estimate cadence, you’ll often find that it’s generally quite accurate at higher cadences, but less so at lower cadences. I’m guessing that this is because if you’re putting out higher power at a lower cadence then there are more fluctuations in pedal stroke which confuse the calculation.