Anytime I hit an incline greater than 3 degrees I lose all cadence (even though I am peddling just as much or more than I do on a flat) to the point where I come to a complete stop and have to exit the ride or event I am in. I have tried peddling faster, slower, down-shifting, up-shifting, races, rides, etc. and I can’t figure out how to fix or get around it. I have done every setup or configuration test I know of and nothing comes back as being wrong or able to be fixed.
Previously, I could adjust the Trainer Difficulty to 0%, which would help me get around it for anything under 5-6 degrees but now that is broken and is always at 100% (believe this is a known issue with Samsungs) I can only ride flat roads. If I hit a short incline that is 2-3 degrees I can get up and over before the problem drowns me.
REALLY hoping someone knows what is going on and can help me…I am SO frustrated! If I pick a completely flat ride/race I am okay but if a ride has a hill I didn’t know about I have to completely quit every time.
- Saris Magnus 01877 trainer connected to Samsung Galaxy S20 (via ANT).
- Heart rate monitor connected to Samsung Galaxy S20 (via Bluetooth).
- Ear buds connected to Spotify/Samsung Galaxy S20 (via Bluetooth).
- Companion app running on old Galaxy Tab S.
I posted this in it’s own thread but an Admin merged it here, (I guess because I mentioned the Trainer Difficulty issue)…but, the issue I am having is independent of the Trainer Difficulty issue.
If I am peddling 95-105 on a flat, then hit an incline and am peddling at the same pace my cadence in the game should not drop to 60, then 0.
Sounds like your wheel is slipping once you hit increased resistance and so your trainer thinks you drop to a halt, and so your trainer tells Zwift you are stopping.
Check the recommended setup of your trainer, e.g. tyre pressure and tension vs the roller.
Saris Magnus doesn’t have a built in cadence sensor and it doesn’t look like you have the optional or a separate sensor. That being said Zwift doesn’t require a cadence sensor, without one it will estimate cadence from power purely for animation purposes, can’t remember what the default is, maybe 60 rpm.
As Steve says your problem is the loss of a power reading due to wheel slipping, evidenced by the fact that it’s worst on steeper gradients and made better by reducing trainer difficulty.
I tightened the resistance on my trainer and didn’t seem to have any issue on 3 degree climbs this morning. It was MUCH more difficult…but, at least I didnt stop
That sounds promising. Do make sure the tightening is as per the trainer manufacturer’s instructions. Too tight isn’t good either!
With it set up properly, if you find gradients too hard (as opposed to just hard but good training), then you can reduce the Trainer Difficulty setting in the menu. This doesn’t change anything on the flat, but it reduces how steep the gradients feel. Your speed up the gradient still depends on the power produced though, so it’s not “cheating”. It’s like making your existing gears even lower.
Also, on a wheel-on trainer it’s best to use a special trainer tire. Normal tires just wear out very quickly and get real slippery. I believe there’s a blue one that’s Tacx branded and a red one from Elite. Most online shops that sell trainers also stock those trainer tires.