Zwift hub and SRAM 10-50 cassettes

Swapped out the cassette last night on the Hub - put on the 11x34 to match the new bike. Mounted bike and gave it a spin. Could hear the chain scrapping against the front derailleur and catching somewhere at the back too. Very pronounced in low gear and with higher cadence. Gah! Why can’t life be easier. (Hub spins silent when not mounted with bike, so not a bad hub thankfully…)

Pulled the cassette from the actual rear wheel and took the spacer from there. The spacer was wider than one that come with Hub. Mounted that and the cassette from the bike too.

Rear noise decreased a lot but still some sound coming from something back there. Front still scrapping - depending on gear. Do a little bit of adjustment and improved that somewhat but still need to fine tune it. Reminded me why I like Sram 1x12 :slight_smile:

Decided would play with that later because wanted to test the bike. The 48 tooth really does make a difference. Wasn’t spinning out on the flats and was getting up to a decent speed. Nice to see some actual real world watts feedback too. The resistance is very cool - its nice to feel the gradient kick in!

(One more side note with sound, was a reverberation through the wooden floor from the fly wheel. At least that is what it sounded like once I really started to push the cadence up!)

So, long story short, if I can get the bike dialed in properly I think I’ll really like this thing!

Front der rubbing is hard to avoid sometimes when you’re aggressively cross-chaining. The Revolt 2 comes with a Sora drivetrain, correct? That won’t have a trim function, so if it can’t be setup to avoid rubbing when cross-chained (it might be able to be adjusted to eliminate a lot of it), you’ll just need to make sure to switch around on the chainrings when you’re nearing the extremes of the cassette.

Park Tool (as always) has some good videos on adjusting the front derailleur.

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It does indeed. I tried some subtle adjustments but it seemed to catch on low or high cog at rear. Win one way, lose another. Been years since I had to mess with this stuff and reminded me how much I hated it.

Was going to have another play later tonight. Was almost tempted to just take all the front stuff off and leave it on the 48! Though would have to cut off the guide. Will most likely switch all that out for a better set at some point anyway.

The rear needs some work too - in the 11 cog its def still got some ‘grinding’ or ‘clicking’ going on, like other people have reported. Not as bad since I swapped to the actual bike cassette and spacer but can still hear it.

I look across at the IC4 and think why did I do this… certainly not plug and play like that was :slight_smile:

You certainly could remove the front der and just not shift into your smaller chainring. You’d need to break the chain, but you can get a quick-link to put it back together for a few bucks.

I find bike wrenching to be best done, and at its most enjoyable and serene, when done with a beer on the counter next to you and no time limit imposed :slight_smile: Maybe a good cycling podcast in the background.

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I def need serene! Was just sitting there irritated that I had to mess with this stuff and couldn’t just ride the bike! It was shifting nicely in road mode… Forced myself to not think about the fact that anything I’m doing here will have to be undone if ever wanted to road ride it again! Need to figure out the two sets of adjustments needed so can quickly switch them.

Going to redo it tonight. Might take free hub off, grease everything and walk through it from start to finish slowly. Then if the front doesn’t behave the guide is coming off with a Dremel! No, wait, serene… serene…

Managed to get out and have another play last night. I didn’t Dremel the guide off but set it so it just stayed ‘true’ on the 48. :slight_smile: I then adjusted and indexed the rear. Much quieter at the rear and shifts nice but still a little more noise, at speed, in the lower two.

I had planned to pull the cassette, check that the lower two cogs are sitting totally flush to main cassette (no dirt etc) and re-grease the freehub etc but really wanted to just ride. Will probably get a friend that has a lot more experience with adjustments come out and really fine tune it at some point.

Headed out to Watopia for a quick 10 mile ride and really enjoyed the experience. The IC4 has actually been a great ‘bike’ - worked out the box on every app - a true plug and play experience but the feedback and better accuracy from the trainer has made the upgrade - even with its pains - worth it. Looking forward to doing some of the training routines now and giving it a good run out in San Andreas too!

Maybe we’ll see some adjustments options in the future so MTBs etc with small chain rings and large cassettes do become valid options. Would have been nice to have a feature to increase base resistance by x percentage to account for those.

Now I just wait to end of year to put the IC4 up for sale to catch the Jan New Years Resolution crowd. :smiley:

Thank you for all your help on this thread!