Add a sliding bar -5 to +5 with .5 increments to allow the default resistance to controllable devices to be modified. For example, if I set it to 1.5. When ZWIFT reports a ZERO degree grade, it would send 1.5% to my controllable device. This should be super easy and allow for users to really use controllable devices better. Problem is you can’t get enough watts on a straight away with a controllable device. 110 RPM’s barely get me above 220 watts. You have attempted something like this for the hills which makes no sense to me, that’s what the gears are for, you can always gear down, but you can’t gear up because of bike limitations.
Something wrong with your setup. Suggest you file a support ticket with Zwift. On flats I get plenty of resistance provided I use the gears. I’m usually on the large chainring on flats and mid cassette at around 300w. Power meter as my power source and Hammer smart trainer paired as controllable trainer. Trainer difficulty set to 40%.
this is a very good idea! I have a small shield at the front myself. On the straight I have to spin fast to go fast. If there was an option to simulate the number of teeth, I would not have to buy a new larger crank.
This sounds like your trainer is not correctly calibrated.
Usually the manufacturer of the trainer has an app that allows you to calibrate it.
Also make sure your tire (in case of a wheel-on trainer) has the recommended pressure.
I have the same issue, Trainer report correct watt but the breaking is week on the flats. I asked this before (more than 2 years ago).
what I end up doing was to upgrade my crank to a 55/42 and 11-28 at the back.
This made it better but I can’t contest any sprints.
The resistance slider has no impact on a 0% road.
yes I have a older trainer.
I love the “It’s a calibration issue” No, its really not. They love to push it back on the smart device instead of implementing a simple enhancement. In the end I shouldn’t have to spin the wheels 100 RPM at my highest gear on my bike to get 220 WATTS.
Think about it, I bet most riders only use three gears and the app forces you to only use the three highest gears on your bike. It should be scaled way harder on flat ground.
Now that i think about it, there is no need at all to put in the slider bar enhancement. Just changed all outputs 10-20% more difficult. Now instead of cruising in 15th gear, I cruise around in 10th gear.
I disagree, you probably have a different gear ratio on your bike. That’s the problem there are so many gear configurations out there. Zwift is defeating the purpose of a controllable trainer by not putting out enough default resistance on 0% slope. Once again, most bikes have 2-3 front rings and 5 or so rear rings. Why make the default resistance at the edge of the highest gears? If the default resistance was much higher, we would ride using our middle gears, and we could gear up and down as needed for hills and more power on the flats.
What’s your trainer / power source?
I was in a race with a bunch of guys from Japan, and they took off at 280 to 300 watts, and there was no way for me to compete because it was a flat course. You physically couldn’t pedal with enough RPMs.
Kinetic Rock n Roll 2.0. iOS companion app, to Windows PC Zwift. I have opened tickets with everyone and it’s always someone else’s issue.
Again, something not right with your setup. 280 - 300 is pretty average for a race start. Some of the races I’ve been in the start is insane with 400+ watts for the first 30 - 60 seconds. I can easily do this on the flat with my Hammer trainer with difficulty set at 40%. Power meter as the power source.
That’s the issue, you can set resistance on your hammer trainer at 40%. You can’t do that with a Kinetic Rock and Roll 2.0. It takes the resistance fed to it from ZWIFT.
So are you using Zpower? i.e. estimated power. That would explain your problems. The power curves Zwift uses are only estimates. Tyre pressure and how much tension against the roller make a difference.
I don’t know about ZPower, how do i tell? HMM, my icon in game only shows the companion app and not the lightening bolt. How do I change that. When i login, it sync’s up to the Kinetic power meter.
Zpower is where you use a speed sensor. On the pairing screen at the top right under speed sensor you select your trainer brand and model. Zwift calculates your power based on wheel speed and a known power curve for that trainer.
If so many races on Zwift don’t allow zpower to qualify for results on zwiftpower.com
@Scott_Pisciotta: I just had a look at my data and altho I would also like the slider I can generate more watt on the flat sections.
I can generate a lot more power going up hill.
Do you have this trainer?
Yea, the only chance I have on races is if there are plenty of hills to help my power numbers increase. Although it is really fun to pass a guy who is 1-2 minutes ahead of you knowing they can’t get any more watts.
I suggest a support ticket with either Zwift or Kurt.