Have similar issues here.. erg mode is not working at all. Tried everything. Reset, factory spin down, reinstalled the apps. Tried it on iPhone, iPad, iPad Pro.. all not working..
In workout mode it even says when I stop paddeling that erg mode is disabled and and I go back to the given watt and it says erg mode enabled but that’s it.. not working at all…
It really sucks..
Also the Zwift Companion App workaround is not working for me also..
So I have been fighting this issue since the temps dropped. My trainer when I first start is showing watts around 150, but feel like pushing 250 watts. The shown power doesn’t match what I am feeling. Heart rate goes out of z2 and easily to zone 4 and messes up my workout. IT will stay like this for atleast 10 miles. I do a simple z2 workout where I warm up from 70 watts to 160 watts for 10 minutes and then ride at 160 for 1.5 hours. the 70 and 100 feel like 140 and 200 watts resistance and my heart rate gets higher than should be for that posted watts. I thought maybe me, then rode again and experienced again. Then yesterday did a free ride with a buddy, he was in gear 12 and 13 and I was in gear 7 putting out the same watts as him and maintaining same speed at same cadence. This went on for easily 15 miles of the ride. Initially I though was just the workouts, but even ERG when I am changing gears its off as well.
Other thing I forgot to mention my cadence was steady (my legs) but the reading on the screen shows anywhere from 100 to 150 and I am a 88-95 rpm guy. the cadence would fluxuate all over the place. In my shed it will get around 52-55 degrees the lowest.
I’m using a Zwift Hub/Apple TV/Companion on iPhone 26.2. Had this issue. Switched over to my laptop’s Windows 11 Bluetooth. Had same issue. Would using my old ANT+ dongle on my laptop fix the problem?
I run Zwift on a WIN laptop and am experiencing a similar resistance issue. It’s as if the system drops the wheel (Tacx FLUX S Smart) after a few minutes of Bluetooth connection. Then it reconnects and drops again. It’s terribly frustrating. Mainly in ERG mode, but now also in “normal” mode. I have the latest 104.v3 installed. Everything works fine with the Android app.
I am attaching a screenshot of my workout.
have you tried an external bluetooth dongle on a USB extension cable so it can sit right near the trainer? Laptops usually have pretty poor internal bluetooth antennas.
I’ve been using Zwift with this setting ever since I started using it. It’s worked so far. I ordered a USB Ant+ transmitter to see if that will work.
My ride today on AppleTV, and again resistance just feels “off”. It’s definitely NOT the same as 1.103 and still noticeably require 2-3gears higher for the same perceived effort.
There seems to be way too little resistance, I’m spinning in 52/11 on the flats (and no I am not very strong) though on gradients resistance does kick in except today when I was doing a workout on the climb of the week. Because I was nearly at the summit and at the end of my rest interval and rather not do my vo2max intervals on the way down (I get motion sick) I paused the workout, the gradient was shown as 12% (and with td set to 100%) it felt like cycling on the flats
To summarise: resistance is too low on the flats, no resistance in the climb portal when a workout was paused
I’m experiencing an issue where trainer resistance drops for a few seconds while riding, then returns to normal on its own.
It happens when i free-ride og in workouts (Non-ERG)
Note in the screenshot how my cadence spikes and dips as a result of the resistance drop/increase, very annoying and dangerous
I’m on game version 1.104.3 running on windows laptop
Trainer is Tacx neo 2T with latest firmware
I thought I would give it some time before I chime in. Since the December update shifting /resistance has been all over the place. Everything was fine until the first update in December. Using zwift play controls with an Elite Direto XR trainer. Trainer difficulty is set at 100%. The first update made every shift feel like I miss shift up to a larger gear for 2-3 seconds and then it would settle down to the appropriate gear and the gradient felt almost double that was displayed. With the current update, shifting is way off. The previous update had me shift up or down one shift with the gradient change. So a 3 percent grade would require me to shift 3 gears up or down to stay at the same cadence. Now, it’s more like 5-6 gears to stay in the same cadence. It also feels like it miss shift way pass the gear and then it settles back to wear it needs to be. So if I’m goin up a 6% grade have to shift almost 9-10 gears to keep my same cadence. It’s even worse when going up/down a small 6% hill. So I have to shift 9-10 up and then I have to cover the negative side of it so it would be almost 18-20 gears change to cover that small hill. Also today, I finished my ride with coco and On a small hill I basically lost all resistance for 5 seconds or so. It was some place after the third sprint checkpoint on the Sugar Cookie route. I have tried other programs and they do not have this problem. ERG mode works fine just to let you know. On a windows 10 PC.
Hey! Sorry to hear you’re having issues with your setup. I just wanted to share that virtual shifting is working perfectly on my Direto XR.
I managed to get everything running smoothly by installing all the latest firmware updates via the Elite Upgrado app. I’m currently using the new Zwift Ready / Virtual Shifting V2 setup and it’s been great.
I really hope you get it sorted out soon—best of luck finding the fix!
Good evening all. I’m facing a very distressful issue with my very new kickr core 2( three rides) suddenly this morning during the Rapha mass ride after 20’ circa the resistance stopped to work properly as not over 2.2w/kg was the effort even I was pedalling at 105 rpm with maximum resistance gear (24/24). I’m using a Mac book air 2019 Bluetooth connection with zwift ride and ready. I’ve tried to spin with my garmin 830 and the trainer seems to work properly. I’ve to evidence that during the last two rides the power danced up and down mostly just after gear changes. I hope in a rapid solution of this situation. At the end I’d like to say that my previous trainer was a chiper van rysel d100 and I haven’t suffered any kind of issues like this.
This same exact thing happens to me and I also have the Tacx Neo 2T trainer. Are you going through Companion mode or directly connecting to Zwift?
I’m using Zwift on Apple TV and Zwift ride setup.
Any update on this? Still experiencing issues where I’m only able to push 40ish watts when in gears 18-24.
Using Zwift Hub through Apple TV. Also pairing through Zwift Companion on my phone to create the bridge with no luck.
Have also tried running Zwift directly through my phone, no luck. Latest firmware on all devices and software.
I’m wondering this as well. It makes racing so much harder trying to work out the gear/cadence to use to mitigate the issue, it’s not as simple as ‘add 2’
Ok got the resistance problem with my Elite Direto both with Ant+ and Bluetooth through Companion. Running on a Apple TV. All updates have been made. This is really ennoying. Anything I can do on my end?
Something off with the watts since november/december, using kickr core, ive gained about 30w increase in my ftp. Have done several spin downs, but something feels off, 10% off. Ive had kickr core and zwift ride since a year back but over night i gained like 30 watts. Sold my assioma so cant dual record now but when i did it was off by like 5%, now it feels more like 10%
Seems random too. One race i did i had to be in gear 13 where im usually is in gear 15 on the flats. Gear 13 gave me same watts as gear 15 usually do at the same cadance, more watts less resistance.
I have an Elite Suito trainer, the issue with ERG mode persisted even after the Zwift update. Are there any workaround tips?
I had similar issue, which started at about 2 miles into a group ride today. Resistance basically disappeared and dropped to base trainer resistance, so no matter what virtual gear (tried up to no. 24) I was in, I couldn’t really get above 100 watts. setup was Elite Justo and was using original Click for shifting. All connected via BT thru Mac Mini. No problems previously.
I decided after the ride to try changing the battery in the Click just in case. I haven’t tried this yet to see if it does the trick though. I doubt it helps but can’t hurt I suppose.
fwiw, One example of why I run a cassette and use a real bike – I was able to unpair the Click and just change to manual shifting.
I’ve followed the suggestions of the first post of the topic, so I’ve updated the iOS of my iPhone and the os of my laptop then the last versions then I’ve uninstalled both the main app of zwift and companion, before of doing this I’ve followed the lines as illustrated in the links and in the end I’ve reinstalled apps and pasted back the folders in the main folder game. At least it seems working properly even if I’m noticing the up and down of power data just after changing gear and the oscillation of signal power with high percentage (ie 160-175-155-165 etc 
) during the ride. Hoping this could be useful for you.
