New zwift hub one noise + low power readings

I have just found out thad performed manual calibration forced from garmin unit made readings more consistent and reliable. Misalignment now approaches to 6% and is stable from the beginning to the end of workout.

One thing to check when using the spacer, does the cassette you are using have rivets?
If there are rivets on the largest cog it will not be flush against the spacer.
You can either get a special spacer, or grind down the rivets with a file/dremel/grinder
This made a noticeable difference in indexing and smoothness for me.

Hi there all, was there ever a resolution to this low wattage problem on the Hub One?
I just got mine after having my Zwift Hub Classic just die on me last week after 6 months of usage.
Zwift couldn’t figure out out and sent this ā€œnewā€ Huh One but it’s literally 10-20% lower wattage and quite evident on Zwift Power. I just did Road to Sky and got my slowest time in months and about 10% slower than my PR which was set just 2-3 weeks ago.

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Zwift has been super helpful and send a replacement without any delay. That was 2-3 months ago but due to personal circumstances and travelling I had no chance testing it myself and it was used by my 8yo who outputs 50-100 watts where there is not much problem.

I tested it yesterday with terrible results. It is consistently 7 to 8% lower than the assioma duo from 220 watts and above and I am not talking only about the max in the power curve. It is fairly accurate under 150 watts. The dual recording was done in the a zwift group ride (not ERG) and I purposefully did intervals of 200-250, 250-300 and so on for 60’’ up to around 700 for 20-30’'. The average power difference was 6.51% and NP abobe 7%.

I repeated the ride with assioma duo and the kickr v4 where they had 0.5% difference in average and normalised and the biggest gap was in the sprint at 1.53%. I also have a stages that reads around 2% higher than the kickr and assioma.

I will be contacting Zwift support again and I hope they will be as good as they were at the first time.

Good morning

I encounter the same problems.

Where are you ?

THANKS

I have got the same issue. With the explanation and advise from Zwift I have a workaround what works. See the text below:

there is likely to be a power reporting discrepancy with the pedals because the Hub flywheel is lighter (10lbs) than the Wahoo Kickr Core (16lbs) and the Wahoo Kickr (20lbs) so that is all normal but you should be able to pair your pedals instead of the Hub for power and get a better result.

From now on I use the power meter from my bike as power input. The Zwift Hub gives the resistance.

too bad there is not an update available, the problem seems quite simplistic.

I have the same problem but I could use my Assioma Duo as well. Advantage is that I have the same reading Outdoor and Indoor. But the 10 Hz Race Mode is missing then. And it should be adressed by Zwift, as the product is only 1,5 years old in my case. And it was sold much longer than mine.

I did some further testing with my Zwift Hub. I always felt in my 90 min Robopacer Rides that it“s getting more stressful in the last part of the ride. Today I dual recorded a 90 min Group Ride with my Assioma Duo. For the first 40 min the Hub is within Spec, underreporting 2%. Then it starts to drift away, the last 30 min are almost 8% off. Through the complete ride the Hub underreports 6%.

I’m happy this post exists. Thanks to all that have discussed this issue.

I have a Zwift Hub One and use virtual shifting. I use the Companion app (iOS 17.x) and a MacBook Air (OS 14.6.x). Also my Zwift app is always up-to-date.

However, I am experiencing a drop in power. Specifically, I cannot keep up on the C group rides that I used to regularly do on my other smart trainer (been Zwifting since 2019).

Part of the issue for me is that I don’t have any power meter pedals to compare the Zwift Hub One’s power to.

Also, I have the Elite Nero smart rollers as my other trainer and it’s hard to calibrate the power for it. I guessing it over-reports the power output. My other trainer is a set of ā€œdumbā€ rollers and so the power is also estimated on Zwift.

So this Zwift Hub One has had me comparing and doubting myself for a long time. In fact, this is my second Zwift Hub One. The first one had bluetooth connection issues - it would have small and frequent drop outs and had interfered with my wife’s smart trainer (she’s on the Elite Nero rollers) when we rode together.

I was able to send the faulty first ZHO back and get at a new one although it took about 10 hours to resolve with Zwift CS.

This second Zwift Hub One has had great bluetooth connections and so I thought the problem was solved, no bluetooth dropouts… but I still cannot keep up on a fun C ride.

I have tried auto-calibrating numerous times, I have the latest firmware updates, I’ve toggled the difficulty settings.

At the beginning of a 45 min ride, I’m with the peloton and everything is social and great.

Then midway thru, I start to struggle but I hang on – really managing my effort. Then 25-35 min into the ride, I can’t hold on and drop off. My HR is in the high zone 4 or 5 and that’s that. But, I’m not describing a race, again, this is a social group ride.

So again, for the first 20 - 30 min or so, the trainer is ok. But then it just gets harder to keep up. I’ll try a calibration spindown mid-ride and count to 10 sec in my head but it doesn’t do any good.

Also, after riding for 45 min, the ZHO trainer is so hot to touch (the round black circle in back). If I touch it, it’s only for a split second. I know it’s supposed to get hot but it’s way, way too hot.

I’ve troubleshooted tens of hours for the first and second ZHO trainers - emailing multiple CS reps, recording videos to send to CS, deleting and reinstalling the Zwift app and Companion app, pairing directly to computer, pairing thru the phone, buying and using an Ant+ dongle, etc…

I love doing Zwift but I am done with the Zwift Hub One.

I will now contact support and ask for a refund. Thank you for reading this.

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