To add onto this, and it’s more of a question. Using the “Flat” gear range option for virtual shifting, there’s a couple possibilities of how you’d interpret the virtual gear to be in “Gear 8”.
Imagining what a 53/39 with 10-28 cassette would be configured, technically the 8th most difficult gear could be either the virtual 39/14, or if counting up sequentially from lowest to highest gear-inch values, it could be the 53/22 option. Which is it? If anyone runs this “flat” option, is there an available virtual ‘front derailleur’ shift? If so, going from 8th gear, and a single shifting the front virtual ‘chainring’ to the 53t, would in the 6th hardest gear with 100.2 gear inches (do we call that gear 18 therefore)?
I’m guessing they set the lowest gear to the 39/39, the highest to 53/14, and then just give you 22 more gears evenly spaced between those two. That would seem the logical way to implement it, actually giving you more gears then you’d get in reality due to not having any overlaps.
But with a 2x virtual front, and the Ride has Front and Rear derailleur shifts, the shifting still should follow an IRL setup, right? Before the default was gear 8, it was gear 12. So that’s interesting… in order to shift to next highest gear, would you have to shift the left controller first, to get to the ‘big ring’… if gear 12 was the 39/10 combo? Maybe that’s why they changed default to gear #8?
I’m going to ask in a new thread… I have a couple other related questions.
I don’t know about the ride since I just have the click with the victory trainer. I’ve only used the default mode so far, it’s just 24 gears, 1-24, with 1 being the easiest (lowest ratio) and 24 being the hardest. The controller only has 2 buttons (+ and -) so I don’t know how you’d simulate a front and rear derailleur with that.
The Zwift Play only do 1x24. The Zwift Ride can be configured to different patterns (which is why I’d love them to sell the Ride handlebar controls separately).
True, but the sram buttons are designed to be used by 2 different hands. The click is really designed to be used by a single finger/thumb, it would be awkward (at least for me whilst riding) to press both click buttons at the same time. Of course it could be done (long click/double click), but for indoor riding do you really need to simulate front and rear derailleur?
Of course if you have etap/di2 then technically it should be possible to just use you existing shifters to do virtual shifting, just need several large corporations to cooperate for the common good
Anyone in the US get tracking for supposedly “mid December” delivery? Last email I got was about a week ago telling me the ship has docked in Los angels and ready to ship out.
Nothing yet on last mile tracking numbers. On Thursday an email went out saying customs had been cleared and we would hear from Strata/UPS with shipping details.
If you consider December 23rd as mid December, then yes, I’m scheduled for a FedEx delivery on that date. That’s just a few days shy of 4 months since I paid for the Victory. Jet Black didn’t answer emails so I had to wait over a week from the time the trainer was warehoused in California till it was given to FedEx.
I had my 2nd ride this morning and did just under an hour free ride including going up the grade. I tried an all out effort up the grade and Zwift estimated 6W lower than intervals did for the effort and the intervals estimate was bang on what I thought my ftp is.
Coming down the other side I actually found I went into super tuck pretty quickly, under 2 seconds. Not sure if my first try I wasn’t going fast enough or on a steep enough grade.
Also having a full hour on virtual shifting gave me a pretty good impression of that. Shifting was quick and I had just enough gears to spin up the grade although I was in 1st some of the time.
In Zwift connected with Bluetooth, Virtual shifting Off; resistance is partially functional and sometimes backwards. Up a 10% incline there is no resistance, down a -6% decline I have to stand up and pedal to get the cranks to turn.
Connected with Bluetooth, Virtual shifting On; there is no resistance difference when the elevation changes in Zwift, and gears 1 through 24 are all the same resistance. Occasionally when riding on 0% incline, there will be a couple seconds of increased resistance which then goes right back away.
Zwift trying to connect over Wifi; Victory shows up as a Power Meter, and selecting it causes the Cadence to be immediately set to Victory, but Resistance does not appear, and searching shows no devices.
Trying to pair through Zwift Companion App doesn’t detect the Victory at all.
The entire trainer causes a bit of a vibration. Like, I can feel a vibration transmitted all the way through the pedals to my knees. Its weird.
If you are in ERG mode and come to a stop, on my old Saris H3 it would temporarily disable ERG so you could spin back up to speed. The Victory doesnt seem to do that. It stays clamped down hard trying to get your 0 cadence to hit whatever wattage. I have to stand up and push down hard to get the cranks to move at all with it set to 100w.
Using the JetBlack app in ERG mode, the trainer reads 7-10% lower than my Assiomas and old Saris H3 trainer. It’s 10 watts low at an ERG of 100w, and 16w low at an ERG of 200w.
So basically the trainer is unusable. Resistance only functions in ERG mode, and it reads low enough to make it unusable for racing. Pretty disappointing for something that supposedly tested so well.
I’m having a similar problem, Victory trainer is reading about 15-20+ watts higher than my Assiomas. Also the LED light is always flashing red after I’ve upgraded the firmware to 4.9. Apparently this means something happened while doing the firmware update and caused the trainer to lose calibration (this is stated in the user guide I believe). Sent an email to support and was sent back a newer firmware (4.10.1). Updated to this firmware but still the same, higher power reading and LED light still flashing red. Sent another email and now just waiting for reply.
