I’ve got a rubbing/clicking sound in my smallest couple cogs on my KICKR Core (new as of two weeks ago). I’m pretty sure I need to fix the indexing, which I’ve done before on my bike, but I usually rely on being able to spin the wheel pretty fast while turning the barrel adjuster to line things up. Trouble is, on the KICKR Core, the dang flywheel is so heavy and my arms are so weak that I can barely get/keep the pedal arms rotating to adjust the derailleur. Anyone have a good suggestion for how to do this? I don’t know if it matters, but I’ve got a 9-speed setup. Don’t worry-- I put the same 9-speed Sora cassette on the trainer that I have on my bike, with the Wahoo-supplied spacer (unless that was the wrong thing to do, in which case worry, and also let me know what I should have done).
Also, completely unrelated note: what’s “Rider Score” mean on the Menu screen? Is that my XP? There’s a big orange present icon after a couple thousand more and I don’t know what that is, but I want it.
Apologies for posting questions that aren’t bugs, strictly speaking-- if there’s another forum for that, I can repost there.
Unfortunately I’m doing some serious social distancing at the moment-- I’m one of those vulnerable populations (immunocompromised and asthma). That is a good idea though that I probably wouldn’t have thought of anyway.
Sorry to read that, @Thomas_Buck, seems to me it would be the only option. Hang on, could you ask somebody to call around and do it for you, while you stay safe in another room? I know I could ask my local bike shop.
If you are getting jumping in other cogs then maybe you could do with more tension on the chain, removing a couple of links can help sometimes.
Is the flywheel equally heavy even when the trainer is unplugged? (I was about to suggest trying an ERG mode workout with really low watts but I guess that doesn’t work unless the flywheel can run on its own like the Neo.)
You could also just try eyeballing it, change to the second largest cog and try to get the cog and the jockey wheels to line up perfectly, then check that the middle and second smallest cogs are still properly aligned as well. (With the largest and smallest cogs the limit screws can interfere as well so they are not ideal for this.) Do also keep in mind that it could be the front derailleur that’s making the noise instead.
And yeah, Rider score = XP. The present thingy is the threshold for the next level.
Have you tried using your foot to give the pedal an initial push? Like you’re trying to start a kickstart motorcycle. That should be enough to get the flywheel spinning and make it easier to keep it going with your arm.
I had to index my bike on my Elite Directo 2…
I got the wheel moving and then using hand to keep it going whilst on knees watched what was happening with the rear mech…If the chain is jumping, do not remove links…it is simply catching the next cog up or jumping on top jocky wheel on rear mech…
if its the first one loosen cable bolt very slowly and help ease it out by 1mm at a time until it stops…then tighten back up and use inline adjusters to fine tune…
if its the second one then locate your mech stopper screws, usually the right of the two is for lower movement, while still moving the wheel screw in until it stops…note it shouldnt be more than half to one full turn…if nothing happens then its not that…
If neither work i would recommend releasing cable completely and index from scratch…
Hope this helps, if unsure on indexing there are good youtube videos to help…
You can look directly behind the bike and use the barrel adjuster to move the RD so that the top jockey wheel aligns vertically with the first cog. That should give you a good starting point without having to spin the pedals by hand.
If you’re unable to release enough tension to get this alignment, I’d suggest looking at YouTube for guidance on adjusting the limit screws.