Bluetooth dropping during ride, won't reconnect without quitting

I wouldn’t expect tvOS 14.5 to fix this, because it’s only the H3 that has this issue. So I think it’s probably a Saris problem.

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Unfortunately not. I’m experiencing this with my Wahoo Kickr V5 also, so not only Saris.

The vast majority of this thread is about Saris though. I suggest that you may have a different issue. I’m not trying to say that you don’t have an issue, just that it’s not the particular weird ATV/H3 issue in this thread.

Well excuse me for trying to help address the issue, which clearly is not just affecting the seemingly holy Saris community.
I’ll never try to help out around here again.

There seems to be a misunderstanding. I’m trying to help YOU.

I suggest that whatever is needed to fix the problem for the ATV/H3 problem isn’t going to help you. So I’m suggesting that a different thread to see if others with a Kickr are having an issue would be a better way to find help for you.

My dropouts persist, but are less frequent. I’ve actually added two BT devices to my setup since the problem started (Steering and pedals), and BT interference doesn’t makes sense to me.

Now I run power out of my Favero pedals, I only need to connect the H3 for variable resistance - and if it’s connected, I get drop-outs. I’ve taken to riding Zwift events with the H3 functioning as a dumb trainer (but only doing them for the companionship / competition over the miles - not for results), but at least this means I don’t get a dropout 1km from the finish(!).

I’ve more or less given up expecting this to be solved. Saris customer service have gone dark, Zwift seem to think it’s a BT interference issue. If i was sure it wouldn’t be an issue with a different trainer (e.g. Tacx Neo), I’d just buy one tomorrow and (reluctantly) write off the cost of the H3 as a false economy in the initial purchase. It’s been not working properly for me longer now that it ever did without a problem.

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I’m having EXACTLY the same issue on my Kickr V5, right down to the ATV remote connection dropping.

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But you can’t be. Steve said it’s unique to Saris and not at all an issue that applies to all brands of trainers connected to Apple TV’s running tvOS 14.x

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Well I updated my tvOS with the latest 14.5 and did a ride this morning and unfortunately I got the Bluetooth dropout on this mornings ride Uggggg! this is so frustrating.

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Can’t just Zwift recruit a software developer from Trainer Road or Kinomap that can tell them how to fix this :laughing:?
It is obviously not rocket science.

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I am using my Saris H3 on Apple TV rolled back to OS 13 and it’s 100% working normal still. Came here to check if any 14.x.x updates had fixed the dropouts… pure madness to see it hasn’t.

How did you do go back to os13?

It’s as simple as downloading a file and connecting your Apple TV to your laptop using USB cable.

I’m sure if you just search for “rollback Apple TV to tvOS 13” it will come up.

I’ve been watching this thread since the start because I suffered the dropout issue. And doing this rollback to 13 is the only way I’ve had 100% problem free zwifting with an Apple TV and Saris H3

I have just started to get this with my Wahoo Kickr bike, ZG on MBP and ZC on my relatively new iphone 12 (IOS 14.8) (the only co-incident change I noticed was having started to use a bluetooth mouse with the MBP, which was disconnected, of course, during the ZG). I haven’t read the whole thread but take it that the best advice going is to switch off BT on the iphone. Will try it for my next ride, unless I missed some better advice mid thread…

My problem seems to be bluetooth/MBP, or zwift/MBP/bluetooth, failing to find any sensors today. It worked fine with a USB Ant dongle on the MBP yesterday, and also on bluetooth to iphone today. And yet the bluetooth mouse just connected quickly to the MBP…

My drop out problem evolved into a simply will not connect problem. And yet otherwise everything seemed to be working fine. It’s not the Kickr Bike, that connects to ZG on the iPhone, and my wife’s MBP. My MBP connects fine to other Bluetooth devices. I tried, flipping between run and ride on the pairing screen, resetting the Bluetooth module on the MBP, rebooting it, rebooting the bike (30 second pause). I could see my wife’s MBP Bluetooth signal from the room above through the concrete ceiling of the basement room, but not the Kickr bike right next to me. I tried the option of using ZC on the iPhone as the bridge to the MBP with ZG running on the MBP. Now the phone would not connect to the bike, even though it then did straight away when I launched ZG on the phone. Basically my instance of ZG on the MBP was locking out the Kickr Bike. Simply didn’t make any sense. I had spent about an hour, ran out of ideas, then it connected. What is going on!!

Working great now, fixed by the Dec update? Good job by the zwift team!

Sync and bluetooth dropping was random in December 2021.
Installed update last night, and sync dropped frequently.
After 2 laptop reboots and 3 restarts of Elite Suito trainer and starting 3 new rides, still no success.
Symptoms: Zwift Controller drops sync; speed gets locked; signal dropped…
This is a very frustrating problem, and prevents us from using Zwift-- for enjoyable rides and training.
For reference, I joined Zwift in Jan.2021 and this was not a problem at that time.

Looked at laptop Bluetooth devices and removed Elite trainer… this seems to resolve this problem.
Will monitor for a few rides.

Wanted to add my two cents to the list of potential fixes.

I’ve been having very frequent momentary disconnects during rides, usually 3-4 during a 40 min ride. Mine drops for 2-3 seconds before reconnecting, incredibly frustrating during sprints.

I have a Kinetic InRide paired with my Apple TV 4k and running Zwift Companion on my phone. What worked for me was the turning off bluetooth on my phone before launching Zwift Companion fix. Tried it last night and no drops for the first time in months.

Tip to anyone else using Zwift Companion on iOS, you can also go into your iOS Settings > (Zwift) Companion > turn off “Allow Access” for Bluetooth. I haven’t confirmed this yet, but theoretically should do the same as turning off Bluetooth before launching the app without the need of doing every time.