Assistance with Wahoo Kickr

it controls my kickr. i am not sure correctly or not. up 3% or greater grades the flywheel does actually slow down allowing my to add power. 17% grade does feel quite tough. i am able to kick any of those grades 400-600 watts quite consistently. 2% or less when the text is not yellow my kickrs flywheel is very hard to add power to. I have found that for 2% i need to be in my tall front sprocket before i notice any slowing of the flywheel and even then it’s barely any. only enough to allow me to maintain 50-100watts. if i try to do any sprinting the flywheel gets too quick and has to slow down before it can register any power. my rider ends up pulling over since it thinks im not moving. if im lucky the 2% section will register close to a 3% and i can get 250 or so watts. do people add resistance to their flywheel? is their a wahoo fitness setting to slow it down or something?

There’s definitely something very wrong there. Maybe your setup, maybe a trainer fault, maybe something very simple.

Hopefully those familiar with Wahoo’s app can give you more specific advice.

Maybe your sprockets is just to small to get enough power. Take your trainer to a bike shop and have them test it.

do you own a kickr? at 2% or less grade does your flywheel come to a stop faster than a regular spindown? my flywheel behaves exactly the same as a spindown at 0% grade.

I have a Kickr core. At 0% there is some resistance, I am able to change to the harder gears and generate plenty of power, over 1000 watts in sprints.

Then something is not paired correctly, Zwift is not in control of your Kickr. I assume it is still paired to your wahoo app.

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(edited) different new text.

All Kickrs support Bluetooth. Want to update the Kickr firmware or adjust settings, do it from the mobile app (iOS or Android).

As for Windows, perhaps update the Bluetooth drivers. There are other threads here on the forum regarding Bluetooth connectivity issues, many of which are due to bugs w/Zwift.

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Kickrs are one of the top smart trainers and very solid, and as Lin mentioned, fully support BT. The guy who has clocked the most km’s on Zwift has only just broken his original Kickr after over 200,000km’s! That’s not luck, that’s solid design.

I suspect you just had a bad run, as I am sure other people have had with competitor brands. A shame that your experience with customer service isnt comparable to experiences people have shared in the forums here with Wahoo but Wahoo’s loss will be another brand’s gain. Good luck with your next choice.

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think u miss the point of my post. im well aware of all the work arounds to the product. i purchased the product for accuracy, durability, windows support. the product has failed to deliver on all of those features. if you want those features i suggest buying a product that delivers and actually has a desire to do so. the company suggests you buy other products to make their device work. i suggest buying a different device all together is the best solution.

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I didn’t reference any workarounds. I currently have a Neo, but I had a Kickr. It worked out of the box w/Zwift. Most of my friends on Zwift have Kickrs. They don’t have any issues. H3ll, the official trainer of the upcoming UCI Cycling Esports World Championships is the Wahoo Kickr v5 and will be ridden in Zwift.

What “Windows support” are you referring to?

As for accuracy and durability, perhaps you got a bad unit. It happens.


blue tooth connection to windows and updating features through. if you think a computer device not being able to function with said computer without other devices isnt a workaround i simply dont know what more to say. i mentioned two bad units. 2/2. 100% bad units.

As far as I know, the big name trainers (Wahoo, Tacx, Elite, Saris) all require a phone/tablet app to upgrade firmware.

Again, plenty of people using Kickrs AND bluetooth AND Windows w/out issues or workarounds. Zwift, Wahoo, and/or Windows will occasionally change something resulting in a bug and thus less than ideal situation, but happens w/Mac, iPhone, iPads, as well.

Good luck w/your next trainer.

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agreed. seems to be plenty of room in the market for a new company to do any of it better. ppl use these tech cause nothing much better out there. wish everyone wasn’t so cheerful about the poor customer service.

  1. How do you know it is inaccurate? What PM are you comparing it to? “Feel” or “Same Speed” do not count. Ever. The only thing that matters is a known Power Meter comparison.
  2. Windows and Bluetooth have historically been a bad match. Unless your PC is less than 12-18 months old, BT can be downright awful. Only my last laptop, ~9 months old is it useable.
  3. You should NOT be connecting your trainer to Window BT under any circumstance. Only connect through Zwift on the PC or via a mobile device to run Zwift. If you connect to Windows first, connecting to Zwift will not work.
  4. Updates are only done through mobile devices. Always. I have owned Wahoo and Saris. Nothing is done through Windows. Wahoo and Saris never say otherwise.
  5. Never, ever calibrate via Zwift. Use the mobile device. You can calibrate Saris devices through the Rouvy App…but I have found it to differ significantly from mobile app calibration.

real world times and distances from years of riding. real comparison of kickr rpm to wahoo cadence on pedal. real comparison of flywheel speed to in game speed. real comparison of vehicle riding alongside bicycle measuring gear top speed at cadence to game speed.

my windows bluetooth experience has been and continues to be a flawless experience on years of bluetoothing old and new pcs.

i am well aware of workarounds.

well aware…

connect via mobile currently has no method of calibration for kickr, seems you don’t have actual experience with the issue.

Sorry, that isn’t comparing power to power.

I’ll give you this one, the Kickr has an estimated cadence based on force applied to the pedals and is close enough but might not be 100% accurate.

Zwift uses a complex calculation to determine in game speed, there are many variables, you simply can’t compare “wheel speed” to the in game speed, or outdoor rides for that matter. There is no wind in Zwift, the bike choice can increase your speed, power ups, etc…

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i’ve worked far passed since my beginning days and put plenty of miles down on the kickr. I’ve experienced the many different types of ways it inaccurately works and found ways to work with it. Doesn’t change my overall experience expressed above.

Not even by the Wahoo mobile app?

if you cant compare indoor speed to outdoor speed idk what we r doing here tbh…they all tote 1% accuracy.

(cadence/rpm is close in your opinion) I can pedal huge watts for 3 second and throw my cadence measure 100 rpm off.

Adding resistance to increase watt guessing is an inherently flawed measuring system imo. Easily exploitable and highly inaccurate. particularly incorrect with low rpm high watts which is my preferred method of input.

yes no mobile form of calibration. it is defined as auto calibration continually occurring.