Why is it that you have to connect to Bluetooth only that feels like a downgrade? So for some reason and it is not distance my hub does not like to connect to my laptop using Bluetooth. Usually I have to select different types of connections just so that I can do a ride because the hub has connection issues. So now I am forced to use Bluetooth because the click doesn’t work if you use ANT+ to connect the hub. Please tell us that Zwift is working on a fix for this and not just expecting us to settle for this answer.
Anyone know how long I can use hub and cog before I can send it back. I like it because it makes it easy to go between my TT bike and Gravel Bike. Very different rear cassettes. But losing 20 minutes of workout time for setup every time is not worth keeping. Or worse the click or hub dropping Bluetooth during a ride.
I also made all Updates. My Zwift Hub One connects with ANT+ immediately when I start Zwift, also my heard ratio, but not the Zwift click. It is also not even to see in Zwift. But if, than I can click on it but I can not activate it. It only shows the Symbol Handy and Bluetooth.
Is ist possible that Zwift Click can’t ANT+?
I found out that Zwift Click only activates by connecting the phone with Bluetooth over Companion App with the Zwift App.
Thanks for your responses. I solved the problem. To activate the Bluetooth on the Zwift Hub is only possible by removing the ANT+ Dongle. That was my problem. So now you have to connect your HR with the Zwift Hub by using Zwift Companyon App, than in the Zwift App you can activate the Click and Hub by using Bluetooth. Now everything works awesome
Hello all who are having Zwift click issues. I talked to real person via Zwift support chat and they helped me get my Zwift click working. It turned out that connecting the click via the companion app was NOT the way to go. The way to go is to add the click via the Zwift app that you are using to connect your One Hub in the “controls” tile. I’m using the Zwift Apple TV app and after I added the click there it gave me a quick tutorial on how to use the click so I knew I finally connected the click the right way. Now I can see what gear I’m in too via the heads up display! Here is my chat text in all my embarrassing glory:
Ends up I had same problem. Click worked fine first 4 rides. Next time it wouldn’t come on. Tried replacing battery but still no go. Contacted Zwift support. Sent me to ambassador level and after several hours finally got boiler plate answer that didn’t address issue. Accidentally discovered that if I clicked and held down shift button it would come on but turn off when I stopped pressing. Removed back again and gently pried up the battery contacts. Actually did that 3 times till I got it to fully make contact. Reassembled and now working again.
Hi all. I have been complaining about these issues for months. Zwift have been very good at sending out replacement Clicks (I’m on my third one now), but the problems are just recurring.
POSSIBLE SOLUTION:
I was wondering if attaching the Click to the bars tightly was bending it, causing poor battery connection, or even flexing the circuit board. So I carefully bent up the battery contacts (I had to re-solder one when it broke off). I also made a flat base which is cable-tied to the bars. The Click then fits with the usual elastic loops.
I have since tried all three Clicks, and they are all working. Only long-term use will tell, but it’s okay at the moment. Maybe it’s worth a try if you can’t find any other solution.
I’ve attached a pic of my flat base adapter.
I haven’t had a prolonged click button issue yet, I’ve had Hub One since November, except once or twice when the click disconnected but after relogging to the app, it resumed working fine.
I should hope that Zwift team could somehow incorporate the virtual shifting functionality into the companion app. That should be fairly easy to do…There’s already an ftp ‘+/-’ button in the training mode/screen that enables you to change % of the workout intensity.
Hi Robert. It was a piece of plastic from some old cable trunking. It’s flat, stiff, and easily cut and drilled.
Anything that doesn’t flex should work.
Incidentally, the battery contact points on all my Clicks had been completely flattened. I think a spring contact point would have been a much better engineering option. If this happens again on mine, I will solder a spring and see how that goes.
Cheers, Adrian.
When is it okay and/or optimal to use Ant+? Or should it be avoided? If so why allow it as an option in the zwift app, if it’s not compatible w/the zwift click, especially since the zwift “classic” is being discontinued? Thanks.
Yes you need to have the Click shifter paired. What are you pairing it to? Are you pairing it directly to the game or are you pairing via the Companion app? (The pair by phone feature)
People say to pair it to companion first - others say pair it to the game - I’ve tried both - companion seems to work reliably - I’ve updated the firmware.
And by “pairing it to the game”, does that also mean the Click is actually pairing to the hub (and NOT the device)?
Do certain things pair to the hub and others to the device? (Phone, PC, etc) namely for me that’s the Zwift HRM and the Click.
