Well I’ll add one more to the list. Got my swift trainer a couple of days ago. Very intermittent and frustrating link to click. Sometimes connects to Mac. Often doesn’t. Sometimes connects, changes five gears randomly and drops out. Sadly it renders the entire purchase pointless unless I want to pootle about in 12th. Swift support is awful.
In fairness swift have been in touch by email but it’s made no difference.
If you haven’t already, try pairing via the Companion app and see if that’s more stable.
I have same issue. 1.5 week in and loving Zwift so far, but resistance on climbs is killing my knees. AppleTV 4th gen and iphone13 for companion app. I’ve ridden 100 miles and 1 race before realizing all of it was done in 12th gear because click controls weren’t actually doing anything. I’ll try all the suggestions mentioned here before I call support.
Update: resolved after forgetting click controls in companion app. unplugging Zwift hub. Restarting Bluetooth on phone. Re Pairing click controls on companion app. Plugging in Zwift hub. After doing that click controls are recognized and function in game.
The app can’t ‘see’ the click.
I received Hub One recently and Zwift click did not work on Windows 11.
It did connect per application initial set up process but then in the game, it was not showing any gears nor responding to clicking unless in ERG mode, in which case it worked. Strangely enough, it was fully operational and working on Mac Mini right away.
I eventually found a solution and made it work in Windows 11 too.
The solution was trivial:
I clicked on my icon in the upper right corner, then went to My Settings / Preferences, scrolled down to the bottom and changed “Virtual Shifting” setting from off to on, as shown below.
If I made this post redundant, I apologize.
I went on zwift the other night and the click button must of disconnected about 5 times to the point of i was stuck in 13th gear going up box hill i only have the click and play controllers connected with tablet
This same issue has been widely reported on other threads. Unfortunately after being told many times by zwift support that they would “forward my question to the relevant team” and waiting for up to 10 days for replies that lead nowhere, I still have no solution I can offer you.
I hope it starts working for you soon but wouldn’t hold too much hope. If it is a recent purchase you may wish to do what I did and look into your consumer protection rights and see if you can claim a refund as the item is not as described. Even if the next patch fixes it, the trend on here is that every patch will cause a new issue.
That’s annoying, just received my Hub One, and experiencing the Zwift Click dropping out after a few seconds on the gears, although it still lets you change the ERG mode which is weird! Windows 10 with new ANT+ and BT dongles, although everything seems to default to Bluetooth.
Will have a play around with it, but bit disappointed to say the least, as the Hub One was just what I was waiting for in a trainer. 
Going to jump on this thread in hopes of getting an answer. I got a hub and after some work was able to pair the click and actually use it and it was pretty cool. However it made a lot of racket so I reached out to support and they sent a new one. The click I had would be found, but I couldn’t shift with it. I tried to connect the new click that came with the hub but it wasn’t found. I then was unable to connect the original click and am unable to pair with either of them. I can’t pair with them through mobile either. However if I use the mobile version of Zwift it connects and shifts no problem. The issue seems to be on PC and I am using windows 10. There is no option for virtual shifting since I can’t seem to get zwift to connect to the click.
I may have found a solution that might help others.
I was able to connect my Zwift Hub One to my Apple TV 4k, but somehow, Apple TV didn’t pick up the bluetooth signal from the Zwift Click. I knew the Zwift Click was working, because my phone and the Zwift Companion app were able to pick up the BT signal from the click.
The solution: I had my Zwift Hub One connected as a ‘Power Source’ on Apple TV. But as soon as I connected the Zwift Hub One as ‘Resistance’ as well, the Zwift Click appeared under ‘Controls’.
I hope this might help other people struggling with the same problem.
Greetings from Belgium
Happy Zwifting
So the click and trainer have to be paired up together to Bluetooth? Is this the intended way of working? Because I always used my trainer in ant+ so the Bluetooth channel can be used to transfer power readings from the trainer to my Apple Watch.
I think this should be clearly indicated at the product page. I don’t understand why the Zwift Click cant use its own Bluetooth channel and it has to go through the trainer.
What I found worked for me (Mac) was that I needed to connect to everything via bluetooth. Having an ANT connection for power, resistance or cadence meant that I couldn’t pair the Click. I’m also pairing my HR strap to the hub so I get HR over bluetooth from that piggy-backed connection.
Looking forward to a new year of zwifting!
I think Resistance is the one that has to be paired via Bluetooth for it to work.
That makes total sense now that I think about it a bit more since it is the resistance itselft the Click is adjusting. The little setup videos Zwift has for their device are nicely done but maybe I didn’t watch it closely enough to notice if they told me this. 
Hahahaha! Yes, the video should have that. 
In my case, the only way to avoid random click disconnects is to use the zwift companion app. When this is the case, it is very pleasant to use. When I am connected directly to the PC, during a session it disconnects whenever it wants and ruins a session or a race.
Obviously, everything is up to date. I even looked for wifi waves. I moved my wifi antenna away, deactivated my 2.4 GHz connection. It was better but not perfect. I wonder if the click signal is not weak enough and does not stably reach distances longer than a bicycle handlebar
I was having the same issue as everyone else. I followed and tried everything in this post and nothing worked - EXCEPT for whoever said to remove the battery, put a piece of paper or 2 under the battery and put it back together. But I also gently bent the gold prongs that make contact with the battery up a little as well. I also did NOT attach it back to my bike. I am going to leave it on my riding desk. I had the clicker attached to my handlebar originally. My guess is the part of my handlebar, where the clicker was attached is pretty narrow compared to the width of the clicker - and the pressure from the band holding the clicker in place put just enough “bending” pressure on the housing that causes some connection issues. I guess we’ll see if it continues to work?
I see the Zwift click appearing in my ‘Paired devices’ overview, but nothing happens when I click in the checkbox. I’m using a Mac. On my boyfriends’ Windows it works, in my profile. Anyone that had the same issue?
Thanks.
Hi, i had this problem. If your using ant usb and Bluetooth to connect hub and click then what happens, is the hub connects to both, blocking the click. If you click on the hub connection square and see its connected twice, then click on the second one and that allows the click to connect.
